Flappy Bearings
10-16-2006, 05:20 AM
#1
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Flappy Bearings
Can anyone give me the dimensions of the bearings (top and bottom) of the bearings mounted in the intake manifold, that flappy valve shaft runs in?
Mine were damaged on removal, and he supplier cant locate a replacement by the number on the old bearing.
--
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
Mine were damaged on removal, and he supplier cant locate a replacement by the number on the old bearing.
--
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
10-16-2006, 11:37 AM
#3
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As per Russ Smith,
Finally something I can contribute, just a moment to thank the collective wisdom and especially the core experts for many little bits of knowledge over the years.
OK, flappy bearings are supposed to be INA F-957762, but HK10 10 bearings fit perfectly at about $3.00 per bearing. Now the caveats. The Porsche part has a seal incoporated into the bearing, the ones I used don't. There is a need for a seal of couase since this is the intake manifold. BUT, vacuum leakage would be pretty minor since the shaft clearance is pretty small and on the top end the cap completely seals the hole anyway.
A better solution than the HK10 10 bearing might be the HK10 12RS (rubber
seal) which has a seal and is 12 mm thick as is the original. Unfortunately the RS was not available from the local suppliers, the story I got was that it was something that was not in high volume so they built them once in a while, probably when a mega order came in, but in between builds you were just SOL.
Add a 10x2 O ring behind the HK10 10 and viola we have a seal again. The O ring probably is fine in Buta alhough I was trying to get Nitril, I can't actually remember what I put in I think Buta. The seals go in first then the bearing, the retention lip for the bearing in on the interior side of the intake manifold and the bearings press in from the outside. Be careful to only press the bearings into the flush level. In other words the O ring should be touching the lip and the bearing, but you don't want the bearing crushing the O ring.
I can't tell you about the long term reliability for sure, but I have been running this arrangement since February 2001 with no apparent problems. I was most worried about too much friction with the O ring instead of the seal, but after a little hand testing and then observation of the vacuum actuator at startup I am pretty sure that the O ring does not inhibit the
flappy motion. I would guess that any leakage would show up as idle
problems. I was suspecting leakage a while back and did the test of preasurizing the intake discribed in the manual and found no leakage.
Well, good luck, if someone else tries it, let us know how it goes, also let us know if the RS is available this year.
RSS
Finally something I can contribute, just a moment to thank the collective wisdom and especially the core experts for many little bits of knowledge over the years.
OK, flappy bearings are supposed to be INA F-957762, but HK10 10 bearings fit perfectly at about $3.00 per bearing. Now the caveats. The Porsche part has a seal incoporated into the bearing, the ones I used don't. There is a need for a seal of couase since this is the intake manifold. BUT, vacuum leakage would be pretty minor since the shaft clearance is pretty small and on the top end the cap completely seals the hole anyway.
A better solution than the HK10 10 bearing might be the HK10 12RS (rubber
seal) which has a seal and is 12 mm thick as is the original. Unfortunately the RS was not available from the local suppliers, the story I got was that it was something that was not in high volume so they built them once in a while, probably when a mega order came in, but in between builds you were just SOL.
Add a 10x2 O ring behind the HK10 10 and viola we have a seal again. The O ring probably is fine in Buta alhough I was trying to get Nitril, I can't actually remember what I put in I think Buta. The seals go in first then the bearing, the retention lip for the bearing in on the interior side of the intake manifold and the bearings press in from the outside. Be careful to only press the bearings into the flush level. In other words the O ring should be touching the lip and the bearing, but you don't want the bearing crushing the O ring.
I can't tell you about the long term reliability for sure, but I have been running this arrangement since February 2001 with no apparent problems. I was most worried about too much friction with the O ring instead of the seal, but after a little hand testing and then observation of the vacuum actuator at startup I am pretty sure that the O ring does not inhibit the
flappy motion. I would guess that any leakage would show up as idle
problems. I was suspecting leakage a while back and did the test of preasurizing the intake discribed in the manual and found no leakage.
Well, good luck, if someone else tries it, let us know how it goes, also let us know if the RS is available this year.
RSS
10-16-2006, 12:18 PM
#4
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This is timely, as I'm getting ready to tackle the intake. Motion Parts lists the HK1012-RS bearing as item # 00139052, for $7.68, in stock. Their shipping is $10, though.
10-16-2006, 12:24 PM
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Thanks 
thats a great help 
I am knee deep in the manifold refesh at present - hopefully doing the reinstallation this weekend. Reading this list has given me the confidence to tackle jobs like this, whch require a small amount of a ability and a lot of patience.
Will attempt to order the INA HK 1012RS bearings from a local source.
I will report back for those following this thread with a local Australian reseller hopefully.
--
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
thats a great help I am knee deep in the manifold refesh at present - hopefully doing the reinstallation this weekend. Reading this list has given me the confidence to tackle jobs like this, whch require a small amount of a ability and a lot of patience.
Will attempt to order the INA HK 1012RS bearings from a local source.
I will report back for those following this thread with a local Australian reseller hopefully.
--
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
Last edited by timp928; 10-16-2006 at 09:03 PM.
10-16-2006, 01:35 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
those of you that are doing this, its a major PITA to get the bearings out. I forget where i got mine, but i got them locally and they had to come froma warehouse but it added just a day to the time it took to get them.
Please those of you that are doing this post pointers for bearing removal, there has to be a better way to remove these things then the way i used which is to dremel it out.
Good luck
Please those of you that are doing this post pointers for bearing removal, there has to be a better way to remove these things then the way i used which is to dremel it out.
Good luck
10-16-2006, 09:02 PM
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Update:
CBC Bearings Australia (www.conbear.com) can supply the HK1012R bearings, they are kept in stock in Sydney at AUD$16.98ea+ gst.
Yes they are difficult to extract, I ended up taking the manifold to an engineering shop, and it took them an hour to get them out, and destroyed them in the process.
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
CBC Bearings Australia (www.conbear.com) can supply the HK1012R bearings, they are kept in stock in Sydney at AUD$16.98ea+ gst.
Yes they are difficult to extract, I ended up taking the manifold to an engineering shop, and it took them an hour to get them out, and destroyed them in the process.
Regards
Timp 90 S4
QLD, Australia
