Car is 'unalignable'.....
12-07-2006, 02:01 PM
#61
[QUOTE=griffiths]
Watched Video: Yes
Critique: well lets see if we can set a better example this time, lot's of tomatoes still on the screen
:
Positive suggestions
:
A) It would be easier if you use a 13 mm wrench
B) You NEVER
hammer seals, you press them:
C) If the pump has internal leakage or noise because the vane guides
are shot, or the cam is shot, new seals won't help you
Why don't you buy a remanufactured pump or a "new" pump already with a higher pressure? You could call Jeannie or David at 928 Spec.
http://www.928gt.com/
Because I have three very good pumps of this model, and I would like to use them, and work with what I have. One has alot of mileage and may be leaking, and the other is bone dry with 75k. Another is unknown. I LIKE seeing the inside of these things. Its fun. This isn't rocket science. The details that I ask of you on these issues probably are published somewhere. If they aren't, someone will publish them soon.
Jim Bailey says in this *thread*
Originally Posted by BrendanC
Watched Video: Yes
Critique: well lets see if we can set a better example this time, lot's of tomatoes still on the screen
:Positive suggestions
:A) It would be easier if you use a 13 mm wrench
B) You NEVER
hammer seals, you press them: C) If the pump has internal leakage or noise because the vane guides
are shot, or the cam is shot, new seals won't help you
Why don't you buy a remanufactured pump or a "new" pump already with a higher pressure? You could call Jeannie or David at 928 Spec.
http://www.928gt.com/
Jim Bailey says in this *thread*
I believe that much of the reduced effort is the very late rack but obviously Porsche felt that they needed to change the pump pressure,the lines and the rack to get what they wanted ...All of the better rebuilt racks have seals designed for the higher pressures and the pump bypass can be adjusted shimmed for higher pressure BUT Porsche added power steering cooling lines to help dispurse the heat generated by churning up the fluid.
12-08-2006, 07:45 PM
#62
[QUOTE=BrendanC]
Because I have three very good pumps of this model, and I would like to use them, and work with what I have. One has alot of mileage and may be leaking, and the other is bone dry with 75k. Another is unknown. I LIKE seeing the inside of these things. Its fun. This isn't rocket science. The details that I ask of you on these issues probably are published somewhere. If they aren't, someone will publish them soon.
Don't get me wrong. We ALL DIY when we can. But, if you can fix a pump with symptoms of low pressure, AND the vanes are shot, using only a new seal "kit" plus a 10 mm wrench, screw driver and hammer.... I will send everyone over to you! 
Originally Posted by griffiths
Because I have three very good pumps of this model, and I would like to use them, and work with what I have. One has alot of mileage and may be leaking, and the other is bone dry with 75k. Another is unknown. I LIKE seeing the inside of these things. Its fun. This isn't rocket science. The details that I ask of you on these issues probably are published somewhere. If they aren't, someone will publish them soon.
12-08-2006, 07:51 PM
#63
Where do I get new vanes? Can I? What other pressure related wear items can we purchase?
12-09-2006, 11:26 AM
#64
Originally Posted by BrendanC
Where do I get new vanes? Can I?
Originally Posted by BrendanC
What other pressure related wear items can we purchase?
A few of components of the pump can be easily repaired to "like new" condition if you have the right equipment. Or, as with any other component you could simply replicate it, again if you have, or have access to, the equipment.
A good source for additional information about this pump design can be found, maybe, at Eaton (Vickers).
Again I have strayed away from the post's original topic. I'll plead something along the lines of the Stockholm syndrome at this time and graciously stop here.
03-02-2007, 08:09 PM
#65
Race Car
Tie rod pass side off after rebuild!
I counted the threads and they matched up but after taking the car for a drive the pass wheels is way off. I did the steering rack, MM, oil pan ,ball joint seals, rotors, pads and one tie rod " the pass side. I assume I need to remove it and turn it out a few turns, ? how do i know when its correct or do i need to keep doing this till I get it right. P.S. added the x-pipe the rear axials are out tomorrow to replace the boots tomorrow along with new rotors and brakes.
Lord give me strenght!
Lord give me strenght!
03-05-2007, 03:17 PM
#66
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm jumping into this thread late, just to answer the latest question. Remember - a 928 cannot be aligned while lifted. Once the car is lifted, it needs to be driven for a few miles, so the suspension can settle again. It must be aligned while still sitting on its wheels.
