85-86 rear axle removal (a little HELP)
#1
85-86 rear axle removal (a little HELP)
Well, I've got everything disconnected but I don't know how axles can come out without removing the exhaust pipes?
Can the axles be removed without dealing with the exhaust pipes??
Can the axles be removed without dealing with the exhaust pipes??
#3
Darien,
I got mine out without removing the exhaust. Mine had plenty enough movement at the transmision side. Once it comes loose you can manover it around the pipe. Now, mine is an 79 with 'Y' pipe to a single going out the back. If your are the dual, it might just be easier to drop it down. I will tell you something else, mine were harder to put back then to get out. It was hard to hold it at the right angle and get the bolts started. I found one secret maybe you can use, put a large phillips screwdriver through the top hole and put the bolts in the side. That worked great for me. Man it realy made a big difference in the smoothness of the car. I think on yours, you have the welded joint with the 'big bolt'. That at least will hold the one side while you work on the other.
Good luck
I got mine out without removing the exhaust. Mine had plenty enough movement at the transmision side. Once it comes loose you can manover it around the pipe. Now, mine is an 79 with 'Y' pipe to a single going out the back. If your are the dual, it might just be easier to drop it down. I will tell you something else, mine were harder to put back then to get out. It was hard to hold it at the right angle and get the bolts started. I found one secret maybe you can use, put a large phillips screwdriver through the top hole and put the bolts in the side. That worked great for me. Man it realy made a big difference in the smoothness of the car. I think on yours, you have the welded joint with the 'big bolt'. That at least will hold the one side while you work on the other.
Good luck
#4
Thanks Frank, unfortunately with the dual pipes, they are directly below the axles and won't allow them to drop enough
Looks like I can loosen the pipes at the h-pipe and rotate them around for clearance.
Looks like I can loosen the pipes at the h-pipe and rotate them around for clearance.
#5
Good Luck Darien,
It took me 3 evenings (5pm - 10pm) to get this job done. I considered removing the exhaust from the resonater back but found that the pipe was split half way round where the pipe goes into the rear muffler. After I finished, i took it and had it welded. Man the car sounds awsome now and rides beautifully. I was going to straightn the drop links but was just too tired. I'll get to that next.
It took me 3 evenings (5pm - 10pm) to get this job done. I considered removing the exhaust from the resonater back but found that the pipe was split half way round where the pipe goes into the rear muffler. After I finished, i took it and had it welded. Man the car sounds awsome now and rides beautifully. I was going to straightn the drop links but was just too tired. I'll get to that next.
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 20,506
Likes: 549
From: Bend, Oregon
Darien--
I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks Bob
After seeing the under side of an S4, it looks the same directly under the axles. When I get home from work I'll re-attack
After seeing the under side of an S4, it looks the same directly under the axles. When I get home from work I'll re-attack
Originally Posted by dr bob
Darien--
I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
#9
Darien,
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
#11
That's all it took Now comes the messy part...
Originally Posted by Garth S
Darien,
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
#12
To hold inner joint together while you manoeuvre it into place for bolting to diff, either wire the body to the boot flange, or use a cable tie, otherwise it will flop all over and sometimes get to an angle it wont easily return from. Get 2 bolts started into the drive flange, then cur/remove the wire/tie.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k, BTDT
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k, BTDT
#14
Depends -- if you use a puller, you can put a lot of force on it without damaging anything. Use PB Blaster, Kroil or Liquid wrench. Give it a good soak. Put a puller on it and tighten it up. tap lightly on the center shaft of the puller, and tighten again. Repeat. If you just use a regular combination wrench on the puller, that will limit the amount of torque you put on it so you're unlikely to damage anything. Don't smack it too hard with the hammer, just enough to jar it.
If you're pounding on the inner race or on the shaft, it will not take a lot of that sort of treatment to deform something. Ponding on the outer race can dent the bearings or the races, which will make them wear out in no time. Use a puller.
BTW, I trust you removed the snap ring...
If you're pounding on the inner race or on the shaft, it will not take a lot of that sort of treatment to deform something. Ponding on the outer race can dent the bearings or the races, which will make them wear out in no time. Use a puller.
BTW, I trust you removed the snap ring...