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85-86 rear axle removal (a little HELP)

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Old 09-29-2006 | 10:46 PM
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Default 85-86 rear axle removal (a little HELP)

Well, I've got everything disconnected but I don't know how axles can come out without removing the exhaust pipes?

Can the axles be removed without dealing with the exhaust pipes??
Old 09-30-2006 | 12:05 AM
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I know it's getting late Friday night, but can anyone tell me?? I don't want to create more work if it's not needed
Old 09-30-2006 | 12:12 AM
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Darien,
I got mine out without removing the exhaust. Mine had plenty enough movement at the transmision side. Once it comes loose you can manover it around the pipe. Now, mine is an 79 with 'Y' pipe to a single going out the back. If your are the dual, it might just be easier to drop it down. I will tell you something else, mine were harder to put back then to get out. It was hard to hold it at the right angle and get the bolts started. I found one secret maybe you can use, put a large phillips screwdriver through the top hole and put the bolts in the side. That worked great for me. Man it realy made a big difference in the smoothness of the car. I think on yours, you have the welded joint with the 'big bolt'. That at least will hold the one side while you work on the other.

Good luck
Old 09-30-2006 | 12:37 AM
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Thanks Frank, unfortunately with the dual pipes, they are directly below the axles and won't allow them to drop enough

Looks like I can loosen the pipes at the h-pipe and rotate them around for clearance.
Old 09-30-2006 | 09:26 AM
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Good Luck Darien,
It took me 3 evenings (5pm - 10pm) to get this job done. I considered removing the exhaust from the resonater back but found that the pipe was split half way round where the pipe goes into the rear muffler. After I finished, i took it and had it welded. Man the car sounds awsome now and rides beautifully. I was going to straightn the drop links but was just too tired. I'll get to that next.
Old 09-30-2006 | 02:50 PM
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Darien, sounds like a pain... good luck with the exhaust, I hope you don't find anything wrong with that when you loosen it up.
Old 09-30-2006 | 03:16 PM
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Darien--

I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
Old 09-30-2006 | 04:30 PM
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Thanks Bob

After seeing the under side of an S4, it looks the same directly under the axles. When I get home from work I'll re-attack



Originally Posted by dr bob
Darien--

I unbolted the hangers on the back end of the exhaust, and allowed it to droop down to rest on a handy jackstand. I have full S4 exhaust, so yours can't be any harder. Oncle lowered, the axle can be moved to the rear some while the outer end is freed from the bearing, then the whole thing comes out easily after that. Assembly is the revers of disassembly, right?
Old 09-30-2006 | 07:55 PM
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Darien,
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
Old 09-30-2006 | 08:55 PM
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Remember Darien, dont over extend those joints, they will/can lock up.
Old 10-01-2006 | 04:01 PM
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That's all it took Now comes the messy part...



Originally Posted by Garth S
Darien,
The last S4 I did ( which has the identical dual set up as your 86.5) required opening the resonator connectors at the muffler and loosening the clamps at the resonators to cat .... the muffler stays in place.
Having done this, the resonators can be rotated at the cat joint to give the necessary room to pull the axles .... this is far easier than dropping the exhaust if you are working alone.
Old 10-01-2006 | 06:54 PM
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To hold inner joint together while you manoeuvre it into place for bolting to diff, either wire the body to the boot flange, or use a cable tie, otherwise it will flop all over and sometimes get to an angle it wont easily return from. Get 2 bolts started into the drive flange, then cur/remove the wire/tie.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k, BTDT
Old 10-03-2006 | 01:06 AM
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Well, what's the key to get the inner cv's off the shaft?? How aggressive can I be without damaging the housing??
Old 10-03-2006 | 02:46 AM
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Depends -- if you use a puller, you can put a lot of force on it without damaging anything. Use PB Blaster, Kroil or Liquid wrench. Give it a good soak. Put a puller on it and tighten it up. tap lightly on the center shaft of the puller, and tighten again. Repeat. If you just use a regular combination wrench on the puller, that will limit the amount of torque you put on it so you're unlikely to damage anything. Don't smack it too hard with the hammer, just enough to jar it.

If you're pounding on the inner race or on the shaft, it will not take a lot of that sort of treatment to deform something. Ponding on the outer race can dent the bearings or the races, which will make them wear out in no time. Use a puller.

BTW, I trust you removed the snap ring...

Old 10-03-2006 | 03:34 AM
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Thanks Dave... Yep, the snap rings are removed

Did I mention that I'm working without a vice Hard to get a good handle..


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