The list was just a bit too quite today

 

JimB, it isn't just economy, to me the Ford units are superior to the Porsche ones.If I can use a generic nonappearance part that is as good as or better than a porsche part, I'll use it even if it costs only marginally less. In this case we're talking about a massive amount of money. I have a feeling that your comment was more directed at the temporary shoving-in of a piece of plastic under the pan. In this regard, I agree.

 

Now that's timing!

 

My personal concern on using the Anchor or other Ford MM's is the propensity for users to find the cheapest vesrion they can identify. That one happens to be the hollow mount with no vibration damping, the one commonly referred to as the "solid" mount. Using this mount you short-change yourself. Yeah, it's better than a pair of fully-collapsed original mounts, but...

Porsche spent a bit of time refining the motor mount design spec over the life of the car. The factroy installed the hollow "solid" non-dampened mounts in the early cars, and suplemented them with an external damper in those cars. Later cars were fitted with mounts with internal damping, the ones we refer to as the hydraulic mounts. So somebody goes through all the effort (and it is a bit of an effort...) to change the mounts, then tosses in the cheapest undampened replacements he can find. Percentage saved over the total cost of the work? Uhhh, not very much when compared with the aftermarket hydraulic mounts. Mounts are ~$50, a -long- day of labor to change them, $400 if I work at 30% of the local mechanic's rate. I don't discount that low, so my day of fun is the full $1200. Either way, the difference between the "solid" aftermarkets and the hydraulics works out to semewhere between 5 and 14% of the total installed cost. Worth the savings? I don't think so, personally. Your budget may vary, and probably does.

In the early 90's, Ford went to Porsche to buy some engineering help on some NVH issues in their light trucks. Porsche recommended a package that included the same hydraulic mounts we have in our late cars. Ford takes the recommended mount to its own list of usual supplier suspects, and has them made in quantities that dwarf the number that Porsche used in our cars. Some of those suppliers decide tha they can sell them in the aftermarket too. So we can buy a low-cost version of a Ford-spec'd copy of a 918 hydraulic motor mount. Getting the low cost thing takes volume, and often includes some compromises. It may be the QC standards are looser, or that testing of each mount is not done anymore. It may be that none are tested at all. Who knows? And who among us knows what went into the Porsche parts spec when they went shopping for them originally? If I happened to be running the motor-mount buying operation at Porsche, I'd point Ford to my own current suppliers to make exactly the same part, and work to take advantage of the new manufacturing volume for "my" part.

Last but not least, I suspect that Porsche carries a lot of the out-of-regular-production 928 spares because they have to, at least as much as they do it for owner loyalty.

Jim--

I installed third-party gas struts on my hood and hatch, saving money. They seem to last about as well as what the factory put on there, but for less than half the Porsche part price from you. I bought the universal Bosch oxy sensor too, rather than the factory replacement. I have installed Westinghouse replacement light bulbs in the marker lights. Point is that there are some third-party replacement parts that are as good or better than what came in the car. Look at your own parts list and notice that there are engine undertrays, lightweight starter motors, really nice aluminum replacement radiators, and more that 928 International sells. Better than the parts they replace, and a few dollars less too. Maybe third-party motor mounts, from a reputable manufacturer, would be OK for you to sell too. Carl sells them, after sorting through and finding the best ones in the lot. Just sell the hydraulic ones, though. Don't waste an owner's time letting them think that the lower-cost 'solid' mount is really a better value or even just a 'savings' when used in the later cars. Truth is they should never be installed there at all.

My two sense on the matter.


oh-- My car has replacement Genuine Porsche mounts installed in it. They languished on my parts shelf long enough for the third-party mounts to become available. They seem to be fine after one whole year of use.

 

I went the exact same path. Speedmount and then Anchor solids. I can't say I actually noticed a difference with the Speedmount, but noticed a *huge* difference with the Anchors. It was like a new car, completely smooth, I don't see how the hydraulics would be an improvement over this, and I'd rather have mounts that last, than leak out and then compress.

 

How good are the fixes ? rubber under the pan is better than dead mounts, new ford mounts are better than rubber under the oil pan. Factory liquid filled mounts ?? the ONLY reason people do not use OEM mounts is the price. The early 928 used solid rubber mounts and TWO engine shock absorbers the liquid filled mounts replaced BOTH. I more than most understand the need to get the most for the money spent after all the old very brown 1980 is old and very brown But rather fast too !

 

Bob, FWIW the early mounts were completely different:

 

How long do the Porsche mounts last? I just had mine done with the Porsche mounts and although they're pricey, I don't expect to have them done again any time in the near future. I try to justify the cost over time...along with every thing else on this car...

 

Maybe I am a little confused, but if ford copied hydraulic porsche mounts in a 95 ford taurus SHO, which is a tough little car in its own accord, what is the difference other than the price 68.00 vs $$$... Other than the fact a ford owner would not pay several hundred dollars for a mount, yet a porsche owner is expected to. The dampening technology has paid for itself so the price should drop-as has the value of the car over the years-aftermarket. A concours show car would loose value with anything other than porsche OE, I understand and respect that, but for the drivers.. who cares, so long as it gets the job done and we have a few bucks left for a pan gasket and a tank of gas.

Nonetheless, it is excellant to have all options available for the entire spectrum of enthusiasts. And no one can argue with that.

 

Not so my brother. I used Ford because Porsche ones /IMHO are flawed.

 

I for one hold the anchor mount in higher regard then the porsche mounts, simply the porsche designed part isnt strong enough, they all collapse, some within 20K miles, I cant speak for durability of the anchor part but I do know that the porsche mounts have a design flaw in them, they all collapse.

 

Yes I agree with Heinrich, the porsche mounts, as i just posted are a flawed design simple as that, i assume if only the upper 20% of the mount was thicker, or more durable in some way then there wouldnt be an issue, but as such there is and they always collapse and lead to further vibration dampening problems.

Its interesting to see that earlier engine with the different mount, had a different mounting point on the engine block, the later cars have space for 4 bolts to go through the block where as that earlier engine has only 3, I had no idea they were different

 

Hmmm. Two valued opinions that say the mounts I put in are flawed. Flawed by design or flawed in manufacture? Compare with Anchor mounts that are known to **** out all their fluid in the bag.

The mount that won't collapse is the non-dampening mount for the Ford. Proble is the non-dampening factor. Want it at least as smooth as the factory intended? Use factory mounts, and replace them when they crap out. If you don't mind having the vibes from the engine passed through, and don't mind the effects on the rest of the driveline components, go with the ford version. If you feel that the harder mounts are OK and you're willing to put up with even more severe effects at resonant points in engine speed and load, then by all means go with the non-dampened mounts.

Hey, it really doesn't matter to me what anybody else uses, so long as they recognize the differences.

 

Bob,

every single porsche mount i have seen is crushed at the very top of the mount. There are no manufacturing flaws, i think its an oversight on the design. Again I cant speak for durability of the Anchor mount but I only found out about them from many many people on this board that have used them and are very happy with them. I am sure they will fail at some point, everything has a limit to which once exceeded will fail. I do believe that the anchor/ford mount will last longer in this 928 application then Porsches designed part. Thats not fact thats what I believe.

If they have the same life expectancy then you bet i will put in a $50 mount in over a $280 mount. If they were the same prive i would probably put theporsche mount in cause it looks nicer, certianly looks more expensive, but then again, this is an engine mount we are talking about, they are both rubber, both have threaded steel on each end, both have hydraulic fluid in them, they look slightly different but this is not a critical part, the composition of both these parts is pretty much the same, rubber, fluid and some steel.

 

Paul,

As others who have done this job have commented, it's not complex, though it is arduous, mostly for the fact that everything is done on while on your back. I think that you could make things much easier on yourself by spending some money on good lift equipment; my floor jack and stands just barely were adequate. I couldn't even roll over under there, which only caused aggravation. In short, get the car up as high as you can. Oh, no ramps for the front, either, cause you've gotta take off the wheels.

My Bible for the process:Pirtle's S4 motor mount writeup

The tool list in the above writeup covers things pretty well, although I'd add to have two sets of each socket size (for counterholds, preferably one a smaller 1/2" drive for tight spots) and a couple of ratchet reach extensions. My car isn't driven in the winter, so corrosion wasn't an issue, but having an impact wrench (air or electric) might be handy, too. A bench vise is useful for holding the old mounts when removing the housing nut on top. Otherwise, no special tools required.

I was able to do the entire thing solo, though I'm sure I spent more than ten hours doing so.

Also, plan on doing an oil change at that time, too, as removing the oil filter is convenient. I did not, and was able to work around it.

A tip not covered in the writeup, but that I picked up somewhere else (Tony's V1-Uh Oh pages, iirc) is to unbolt the steering rack lines where they anchor to the engine bay wall on the driver's side. This will give the rack a bit more freedom to move aside. Get to it from under the hood.

As I said, I did not drop the crossmember entirely, but rather was able to pull it down enough to wiggle the mounts out and back in. I'd think that getting that piece back in place on your own would be a serious PITA.

It's not bad, but budget two days for the job.

I hope that helps!