How should I connect the wire to the driver door switch on my '89 GT? The terminal is crimped onto the plastic plunger, and when I tried to solder the wire onto my old switch I melted the plunger, requiring a new switch.

Does this require a crimp connection or some soldering technique I didn't use?

Thanks,
Mark.

 

Most of the time the switches come with the wires attached and have a lead of about 2 feet. the switch actually unplugs all the way up behind the radio (twards the front of the car) the are on the left and right side of the hump, but above the hump. the connections are red, green and i think yellow, the are about roughly 1" wide an 3/4 deep. a pretty large connection.

 

No, this switch screws into the door jamb and has a spring-activated plunger that opens when the door is closed. No lead attached.

 

sorry thought you were talking about the window switch. ummm. hmmm, with out seeing it.... if you are melting it sometimes it is better to use a very hot iron, a thinner solder, so you can get on it and get off it quick... maybe tricky not to get a cold joint, but i would think it can be done.

 

Why not just crimp it on?

You can get a crimp tool & fresh connectors if you need @ Home Depot...no?

If you must solder it use a hemostat to slow the heating of the plunger, use a
very hot soldering iron (gets it hotter quicker but keep it hot for much less time)
Consider starting by freezing the plunger end with a freezer can (or put it in the
freezer for 10 minutes) - will keep a better temperature differential.

Do it in steps: tin the connector with solder first - then cool, tin the wire then heat & join.

Consider having a can of freezer spray to cool the plunger end immediately after
you finish soldering, wrap plunger in a wet cloth.

Most damage through heat is a result of too long spent heating the item - often due to the iron having too low of a temperature to rapidly melt the solder. If your soldering iron is set at too low of a termperature or if it has too small of a thermal mass for the item you are trying to heat (so cools down too much) you may just need a better bigger iron.

Alan

 

Hi Mark,
Do some tests on the damaged switch to make sure that the metal material can actually be soldered to at all. Sometimes they are not solderable - hence the climp connection.

 

Time for a new soldering iron.

 

Mark,

I just did one of mine a few months ago...use a sharp tool (seal pick or equivilant) to open up the connector end of the switch enough to slip the wire in (assuming you have a new switch). Then use a combo wire stripper/crimper tool (you can pick one up for less than $10) and crimp the wire in place. Voila! Stay away from any soldering...

 

IIRC that takes a "bullet" connector. Solder the connector to the wire, then snap it on to the switch.