Car catches when started then instantly dies
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Car catches when started then instantly dies
Today my 86S developed hard starting problems. The engine catches upon start up then instantly dies.
Usually takes 3-4 starting attempts to catch. Sometimes I have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running.
Then on other occasions it will fire up on the first crank?
Anyone been down this path before?
Thanks Rich
Usually takes 3-4 starting attempts to catch. Sometimes I have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running.
Then on other occasions it will fire up on the first crank?
Anyone been down this path before?
Thanks Rich
#2
Three Wheelin'
I don't know if it's like the S4, but when I had hard cold start problems, it ended up being the temp2 sensor. It richens up the mixture when the car is cold, making it easier to start and keep running until it warms up. In my case, the sensor had started coming apart, so that the wires weren't making contact correctly.
#5
Rennlist Member
Check the wiring on the impulse sensor. Mine was flakey and had some trouble, just before it totally died. It was shorting to the block. If the car fired up, vibrations would keep the signal running good enough to keep it going.
#6
Burning Brakes
Rich,
Did you change your oil/add oil recently? I have had some stalling/starting problems lately. During my last oil change I added oil up to the top hash mark. My guess is oil is getting into the ISV. Draining oil tomorrow to get to the bottom hash mark to see if things change.
Did you change your oil/add oil recently? I have had some stalling/starting problems lately. During my last oil change I added oil up to the top hash mark. My guess is oil is getting into the ISV. Draining oil tomorrow to get to the bottom hash mark to see if things change.
#7
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Originally Posted by bd0nalds0n
I don't know if it's like the S4, but when I had hard cold start problems, it ended up being the temp2 sensor. It richens up the mixture when the car is cold, making it easier to start and keep running until it warms up. In my case, the sensor had started coming apart, so that the wires weren't making contact correctly.
This is a very easy item to check / replace. Faulty temp sensor will not tell the computer to run the full rich startup cycle - causing this exact issue.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Oil was changed in early spring. Not an issue.
I guess I will change out the temp sensor since everything else has been replaced. Is it called the temp II sensor?
It's a funny thing for the last week it fires instantly to an idle. Then all of a sudden a few weeks later te starting problems re-develop?
Thanks Rich
I
I guess I will change out the temp sensor since everything else has been replaced. Is it called the temp II sensor?
It's a funny thing for the last week it fires instantly to an idle. Then all of a sudden a few weeks later te starting problems re-develop?
Thanks Rich
I
#10
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Originally Posted by RDS928S
Oil was changed in early spring. Not an issue.
I guess I will change out the temp sensor since everything else has been replaced. Is it called the temp II sensor?
It's a funny thing for the last week it fires instantly to an idle. Then all of a sudden a few weeks later te starting problems re-develop?
Thanks Rich
I
I guess I will change out the temp sensor since everything else has been replaced. Is it called the temp II sensor?
It's a funny thing for the last week it fires instantly to an idle. Then all of a sudden a few weeks later te starting problems re-develop?
Thanks Rich
I
#12
Rennlist Member
Temp II easy to do.
Facing the engine, it is front top, left of center, near oil filler.
If the sensor is intact, I wouldn't remove it. You can check the resistances at the sensor, removing the plug, there are two pins inside. Both pins should have similar readings. Temps are Cent., readings are Ohms:
0 = 4.4 to 3.6 k Ohms
15 to 30 degrees = 1.4 to 3.6 K
40C = 1.0 to 1.3 K;
80 C = 250 t0 390 ohms.
If the readings check ok, then you need to ascertain the reading is reaching the EZK, pins 18 and 19.
If the sensor is intact, I wouldn't remove it. You can check the resistances at the sensor, removing the plug, there are two pins inside. Both pins should have similar readings. Temps are Cent., readings are Ohms:
0 = 4.4 to 3.6 k Ohms
15 to 30 degrees = 1.4 to 3.6 K
40C = 1.0 to 1.3 K;
80 C = 250 t0 390 ohms.
If the readings check ok, then you need to ascertain the reading is reaching the EZK, pins 18 and 19.