Liftbars, get your liftbars here
08-24-2009, 10:04 PM
#76
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08-24-2009, 10:20 PM
#77
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Nick--
The 6ton stands are minimum with the larger footprint if you plan to work under the car. 3Ton at max height need a piddly 175# for overturning when perched on 4 of them, so that pretty much keeps me out from under the car. I und up with a couple blocks on the roller jack to get the car up higher on the 6T, with enough room for a creeper and me without dragging my nose on the exhaust. Liftbars will likely get you the extra car height without as much stand extension (good). Still need to have a jack that will lift as high as your stands will be, so look at min stand heights vs your jack if you are considering the 12Ton stands.
The 6ton stands are minimum with the larger footprint if you plan to work under the car. 3Ton at max height need a piddly 175# for overturning when perched on 4 of them, so that pretty much keeps me out from under the car. I und up with a couple blocks on the roller jack to get the car up higher on the 6T, with enough room for a creeper and me without dragging my nose on the exhaust. Liftbars will likely get you the extra car height without as much stand extension (good). Still need to have a jack that will lift as high as your stands will be, so look at min stand heights vs your jack if you are considering the 12Ton stands.
08-25-2009, 12:19 AM
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Now I'm wondering if those Harbor Freight 12 ton stands could even work. The stands themselves are a minimum of 19 1/2" tall.
Since you put on bar on a time, is it prudent to raise the car (19 1/2" + (liftbar)) at a time? Is that reasonably safe.
I know that some, if not most use 3 ton jackstands. They are (11 3/4" + (liftbar)) tall.
The base of that large, 12 ton jackstand is confidence inspiring to me. At over a foot wide, I'd feel better, if it'll work. Although I'm finally able to work in a garage with a cement floor, the floor itself isn't quite level, sloping a bit from front to back, but it looks reasonably okay, assuming back-ups are in place...
I suppose one could always jack the car up at first onto something like plywood pads, a couple of inches high, and then, once it's evenly up a couple of inches, put the liftrods on.
You know, now that I'm thinking about effective "backups", I wonder what you all prefer? I have some wheels/tires around, but maybe I'll go all **** here and cut up a bunch of 12" square pieces of 3/4" plywood or something that I can stack up wherever convenient, right up to just under the car. Can even "peg" the corners so they stay aligned. Or should I go with round pieces, with loose fitting single pegs and anti-skid rubber mats for the base blocks? Dammit - overthinking again. Please shoot me or something, okay? ; )
Hey - does anyone use jackstands AS backups?
Nick - 98S4
Since you put on bar on a time, is it prudent to raise the car (19 1/2" + (liftbar)) at a time? Is that reasonably safe.
I know that some, if not most use 3 ton jackstands. They are (11 3/4" + (liftbar)) tall.
The base of that large, 12 ton jackstand is confidence inspiring to me. At over a foot wide, I'd feel better, if it'll work. Although I'm finally able to work in a garage with a cement floor, the floor itself isn't quite level, sloping a bit from front to back, but it looks reasonably okay, assuming back-ups are in place...
I suppose one could always jack the car up at first onto something like plywood pads, a couple of inches high, and then, once it's evenly up a couple of inches, put the liftrods on.
You know, now that I'm thinking about effective "backups", I wonder what you all prefer? I have some wheels/tires around, but maybe I'll go all **** here and cut up a bunch of 12" square pieces of 3/4" plywood or something that I can stack up wherever convenient, right up to just under the car. Can even "peg" the corners so they stay aligned. Or should I go with round pieces, with loose fitting single pegs and anti-skid rubber mats for the base blocks? Dammit - overthinking again. Please shoot me or something, okay? ; )
Hey - does anyone use jackstands AS backups?
Nick - 98S4
08-25-2009, 12:19 AM
#79
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Now I'm wondering if those Harbor Freight 12 ton stands could even work. The stands themselves are a minimum of 19 1/2" tall.
Since you put on bar on a time, is it prudent to raise the car (19 1/2" + (liftbar)) at a time? Is that reasonably safe.
I know that some, if not most use 3 ton jackstands. They are (11 3/4" + (liftbar)) tall.
The base of that large, 12 ton jackstand is confidence inspiring to me. At over a foot wide, I'd feel better, if it'll work. Although I'm finally able to work in a garage with a cement floor, the floor itself isn't quite level, sloping a bit from front to back, but it looks reasonably okay, assuming back-ups are in place...
I suppose one could always jack the car up at first onto something like plywood pads, a couple of inches high, and then, once it's evenly up a couple of inches, put the liftrods on.
You know, now that I'm thinking about effective "backups", I wonder what you all prefer? I have some wheels/tires around, but maybe I'll go all **** here and cut up a bunch of 12" square pieces of 3/4" plywood or something that I can stack up wherever convenient, right up to just under the car. Can even "peg" the corners so they stay aligned. Or should I go with round pieces, with loose fitting single pegs and anti-skid rubber mats for the base blocks? Dammit - overthinking again. Please shoot me or something, okay? ; )
Hey - does anyone use jackstands AS backups?
Nick - 98S4
Since you put on bar on a time, is it prudent to raise the car (19 1/2" + (liftbar)) at a time? Is that reasonably safe.
I know that some, if not most use 3 ton jackstands. They are (11 3/4" + (liftbar)) tall.
The base of that large, 12 ton jackstand is confidence inspiring to me. At over a foot wide, I'd feel better, if it'll work. Although I'm finally able to work in a garage with a cement floor, the floor itself isn't quite level, sloping a bit from front to back, but it looks reasonably okay, assuming back-ups are in place...
I suppose one could always jack the car up at first onto something like plywood pads, a couple of inches high, and then, once it's evenly up a couple of inches, put the liftrods on.
You know, now that I'm thinking about effective "backups", I wonder what you all prefer? I have some wheels/tires around, but maybe I'll go all **** here and cut up a bunch of 12" square pieces of 3/4" plywood or something that I can stack up wherever convenient, right up to just under the car. Can even "peg" the corners so they stay aligned. Or should I go with round pieces, with loose fitting single pegs and anti-skid rubber mats for the base blocks? Dammit - overthinking again. Please shoot me or something, okay? ; )
Hey - does anyone use jackstands AS backups?
Nick - 98S4
08-25-2009, 01:14 AM
#80
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I'm using the 12 ton stands. That is why I am having min. height issues. They make a blue and silver set at HF that are 6 or 8 tons. Those seem to be a more user friendly height.
A fellow rennlister claims he bought a floor jack from Sears that has a set of built in jack stands. He says that the stand is part of the jack and that once you lift the car, you can remove the jack and the stand stays under the car. It sounds like a perfect tool for lifting a 928 but I haven't had any luck finding one.
A fellow rennlister claims he bought a floor jack from Sears that has a set of built in jack stands. He says that the stand is part of the jack and that once you lift the car, you can remove the jack and the stand stays under the car. It sounds like a perfect tool for lifting a 928 but I haven't had any luck finding one.
08-25-2009, 01:37 AM
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You know, I kind of remember a television commercial for that Sears product. I just searched their website completely and it doesn't seem to be available anymore.
I checked into Kwik Lift stuff today, and it seems that their prices are a bit higher - high enough that if I "go there" I might as well just spent the 2K and get a real lift, something I expect to do in a few months anyway.
I'm probably being paranoid about stability, but my current garage floor isn't quite perfect. I'm not planning on doing anything more than perhaps draining coolant out of the cylinder heads for the pre-supercharging coolant flush/engine go-over in December or so...
Basicaly, I have to change the alternator hose. I want to service the windshield washer system. Maybe some serious engine degreasing/undercarriage cleaning. Certainly nothing involving a sledge-hammer... lol
Nick - 89S4
I checked into Kwik Lift stuff today, and it seems that their prices are a bit higher - high enough that if I "go there" I might as well just spent the 2K and get a real lift, something I expect to do in a few months anyway.
I'm probably being paranoid about stability, but my current garage floor isn't quite perfect. I'm not planning on doing anything more than perhaps draining coolant out of the cylinder heads for the pre-supercharging coolant flush/engine go-over in December or so...
Basicaly, I have to change the alternator hose. I want to service the windshield washer system. Maybe some serious engine degreasing/undercarriage cleaning. Certainly nothing involving a sledge-hammer... lol
Nick - 89S4
08-25-2009, 04:13 PM
#82
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I got those jackstands for my trucks since they lifted higher than the standard ones. I use the standard jack stands with the adjustable part removed and a block of wood in its place for the shark.
08-25-2009, 04:25 PM
#83
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I have used 6-ton quite a lot, and bought a set of 12-ton - just before I bought my 4-post, so I have only used them once. 3-ton are OK if you aren't going very high. I usually use any stands at their lowest height.
You need a serious jack to use the 12-ton. I bought a steel HF jack with an adjustable (ACME screw) bucket which works well, and lifts quite high. The lighweight small aluminum HF jacks are wimpy, and bend sideways after heavy use. The big aluminum HF or Costco work OK, but steel is real.
Even with a proper jack, you should use two 6-ton on the first lift. I think the 12s are just too high to do safely in one shot. IE. lift and put in 6-ton stands, go to the other side, put in 12-ton stands, go back and replace the 6s with 12s.
You need a serious jack to use the 12-ton. I bought a steel HF jack with an adjustable (ACME screw) bucket which works well, and lifts quite high. The lighweight small aluminum HF jacks are wimpy, and bend sideways after heavy use. The big aluminum HF or Costco work OK, but steel is real.
Even with a proper jack, you should use two 6-ton on the first lift. I think the 12s are just too high to do safely in one shot. IE. lift and put in 6-ton stands, go to the other side, put in 12-ton stands, go back and replace the 6s with 12s.
08-25-2009, 04:57 PM
#84
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http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7168685.html
02-18-2011, 04:21 PM
#86
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You will be happy. FYI..i hang mine on the wall for storage. I put some long lag screws into a board anchored that to the studs. The screws are just wide enough so the end of the lift bar will "slot" in there and hang.
