I got my Torque converter rebuilt with increased stall
#31
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doubt I'd want to deal w/the mess of waiting till one of these granades either. an ounce of prevention is usually worth a file folder of recipts, imho. guess I'd wait for the TT too/maybe ck crankshaft and trans bearings, look for loose stuff all around the motor(top and bottom) and suspension/chassis WYIT. lots of old rubber mounts everywhere that are probably ready to go/could be trying to warn you...
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#32
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I found it. I hope. After pulling the TT out last night I supported both ends and proceed to tap on the tube with a rubber mallet. Rattle, Rattle, Rattle. The rear inertia piece seems to be causing the noise. The rear rubber grommet was not attached to the counter weight at all. It had slid all the way to the back of the tube, and the rest of the assembly stayed up inside the tube. When I had talked to Jim the other day about it, I thought that the whole assembly had slid to the back, but it was just the rear grommet only. With only one support on one end of the counter weight, the giant metal slug would rattle off the inside of the tube. This thing is heavy. And the weight of the metal piece alone would allow it to touch the inside of the tube when in the horizontal position.
Of interest, the last pic shows the detached rubber grommet, with the grooves worn almost smooth. Actually, both were semi-smooth, not grooved. This big chunk of metal just slid right out of the tube with very little effort on my part. I don't think this is normal. Also, the grommet still attached to the inertia dampner would not come off, but the other one (laying in the floor) would slide right on and off (which is why it was at the back of the tube without the rest of its parts along for the ride).
So, I have another tube on the way as of yesterday. Should I try and "pin" the inertial dampner on this second tube, or just leave it alone. I have read the thread on this board where PVC was used in-between the bearings in order to hold them in place among other things, but this will require me to tear down a rebuilt tube which I don't want to do. If I just took some measurements from my current damper, and drilled and tapped a few holes on either side of the dampner on the new tube, it would theoretically hold it in place, as well as not let the rubber bushings ever come off.
Of interest, the last pic shows the detached rubber grommet, with the grooves worn almost smooth. Actually, both were semi-smooth, not grooved. This big chunk of metal just slid right out of the tube with very little effort on my part. I don't think this is normal. Also, the grommet still attached to the inertia dampner would not come off, but the other one (laying in the floor) would slide right on and off (which is why it was at the back of the tube without the rest of its parts along for the ride).
So, I have another tube on the way as of yesterday. Should I try and "pin" the inertial dampner on this second tube, or just leave it alone. I have read the thread on this board where PVC was used in-between the bearings in order to hold them in place among other things, but this will require me to tear down a rebuilt tube which I don't want to do. If I just took some measurements from my current damper, and drilled and tapped a few holes on either side of the dampner on the new tube, it would theoretically hold it in place, as well as not let the rubber bushings ever come off.
#34
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Mike,
So was the piece in the first TT bad as well? Or is it the same piece for both??
The noise was coming from the TC when we had it running on my lift, just shows how the noise travels from its original sauce.
I will feel happier when you have it all buttoned up and running with no marbles.
Roger
So was the piece in the first TT bad as well? Or is it the same piece for both??
The noise was coming from the TC when we had it running on my lift, just shows how the noise travels from its original sauce.
I will feel happier when you have it all buttoned up and running with no marbles.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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#36
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This was a rebuilt tube. If you remember Roger, I had looked at my old tube and noticed that the rear rubber grommet was detatched from what I thought was a bearing, but in hindsight, it ended up being the harmonic dampner. I know it is hard to believe, but I remember installing the new one and seeing the same thing when I looked down inside the rebuilt tube. At that point, I just figured that this was normal since both tubes had the same thing going on, and wanting to get my car back together, I didn't think anything of it and I didn't mention it. I know the odds have got to be astronomical that both tubes would be suffering this same problem, but I think they were. Before I removed the TT last night, I grabbed a drop light and looked into the back of the tube. The rear rubber grommet was about 6 inches away from the metal sleeve it is supposed to ride on. And the solid metal dampner was resting on the inside of the TT. When I removed the TT and set it on cinder blocks and gave it a stout rap with a dead blow hammer, I got a rattle. If this turns out to not be it, then I will put the thing back together and drive it til the wheels fall off. Here are my famous last words.....this has got to be it......
#37
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I will also feel much better once its back together with no rattle. Has anyone else on this board with TT experience ever had the counter weight just basically slide out the end of the tube via gravity. I used no tool to get this out. I did use a screw driver to pop out the detatched grommet. Then, I just turned the tube on its end and it just slid down to the bottom like a kazoo or something. This just seems wrong? Shouldn't the fit be tighter than this so the thing isn't vibrating up and down the tube? Without some friction, the whole assembly would eventually vibrate to the rear pinch bolt and eat up the grommet.
#38
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With an automatic, the torque converter acts like a dampener anyway? I think I would just toss out the TT dampener and put 'er back together.
IIRC, the CS had the dampener deleted.
IIRC, the CS had the dampener deleted.
#39
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the front bearings were dust on mine. had the whole friggin front suspension rebuilt, motor mounts replaced and exhaust redone cause the noise was a clunk when stopping or hard accel off the line/sounded like everything else. pinheads at the shop fried my 1st gear clutches power braking it trying to figure out what was up/or trying to get it to fail so they'd know what was wrong. figured I"d had enough.. took it to a trans shop.
after reading a rennlist thread about TT bearing failures, I told the trans guy to just pull the dang tube for the 3rd time (cause he claimed it was fine and didn't need to be pulled), we instantly saw the problem as the pieces fell to the ground. obviously, should have read rennlist 1st, duh.
only took $5k and 4mos to get to the bottom of that one for me - so you've done VERY well!!! oh well, I did get to do my TC/stall thing at the time, so I guess it was a good thing in the end/performance wise. glad you found it!
you'll love the increased stall, happy shredding
ps - did you use the older style TT w/the circlip/shims so you don't have to worry about TT creep and Tbearing failure?? no? should've read the rennlist 1st... hehehehe.
after reading a rennlist thread about TT bearing failures, I told the trans guy to just pull the dang tube for the 3rd time (cause he claimed it was fine and didn't need to be pulled), we instantly saw the problem as the pieces fell to the ground. obviously, should have read rennlist 1st, duh.
only took $5k and 4mos to get to the bottom of that one for me - so you've done VERY well!!! oh well, I did get to do my TC/stall thing at the time, so I guess it was a good thing in the end/performance wise. glad you found it!
you'll love the increased stall, happy shredding
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ps - did you use the older style TT w/the circlip/shims so you don't have to worry about TT creep and Tbearing failure?? no? should've read the rennlist 1st... hehehehe.
#40
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FYI i had a thump/clang on start/stop which turned out to be a loose damper. My mechanic took it out and the car seems to run fine without it. I think the damper got dropped in some models anyway for weight saving so i would not sweat just leaving it out.