Gas tank removal -- need help with last step
#1
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Gas tank removal -- need help with last step
From an earlier post, I have a major gas leak. I'm removing the gas tank but need help with what I hope is the last step.
My neighbor and I have:
1. Disconnected the fuel line in the back right wheel well
2. Removed the support bracket for the gas tank (four long 13mm bolts). This support bracket is completely free of the car.
The gas tank continues to hang on the car. How? What's holding it on? Is it epoxied? Is it likely just crusted on? I pulled a softball worth of dirt from between the support bracket and the gas tank so I'm quite sure this is the first time this part of the car has been investigated.
Thanks for your suggestions. I'd like to have the gas tank repaired in time to head to Green Bay to watch the Bears beat the Packers on Sep 10.
Peace,
Tim
My neighbor and I have:
1. Disconnected the fuel line in the back right wheel well
2. Removed the support bracket for the gas tank (four long 13mm bolts). This support bracket is completely free of the car.
The gas tank continues to hang on the car. How? What's holding it on? Is it epoxied? Is it likely just crusted on? I pulled a softball worth of dirt from between the support bracket and the gas tank so I'm quite sure this is the first time this part of the car has been investigated.
Thanks for your suggestions. I'd like to have the gas tank repaired in time to head to Green Bay to watch the Bears beat the Packers on Sep 10.
Peace,
Tim
#2
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When I dropped mine last year I remember I had to take out the gas cap, remove a spring clip that holds the rubber sleeve in place and behind the sleeve are a couple bolts that hold the filler neck in place. If you have not taken these bolts out yet they may be stopping the tank from dropping down.
#3
[QUOTE=84-928S-inChicagoland] What's holding it on? [QUOTE]
Like Sharks mentioned, there's a bolt holding the filler neck to the body behind the filler door.
There are a couple other things to mention. There is a hose between the filler neck and the top of the tank that you can disconnect behind the filler neck, then slip through the body when it is partially down.
There is a fuel return line and the sending unit plug under a cover under the rear carpet.
Also, there are rubber insulators around the top of the tank, the tank kind of wedges in place, so some times you have to wiggle it out of it's spot. Some say you have to disconnect the rear drop links on the rear suspension to get it out, but I've been able to wiggle out with the right rear tire removed... takes a while.
Oh, and if anyone has mounted an amp on the rear deck somewhere... there could be screws going through the body into the tank... have heard of that happening a few times.
Once you've done it four or five times, it's a 25 minute job...
Like Sharks mentioned, there's a bolt holding the filler neck to the body behind the filler door.
There are a couple other things to mention. There is a hose between the filler neck and the top of the tank that you can disconnect behind the filler neck, then slip through the body when it is partially down.
There is a fuel return line and the sending unit plug under a cover under the rear carpet.
Also, there are rubber insulators around the top of the tank, the tank kind of wedges in place, so some times you have to wiggle it out of it's spot. Some say you have to disconnect the rear drop links on the rear suspension to get it out, but I've been able to wiggle out with the right rear tire removed... takes a while.
Oh, and if anyone has mounted an amp on the rear deck somewhere... there could be screws going through the body into the tank... have heard of that happening a few times.
Once you've done it four or five times, it's a 25 minute job...
#5
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Originally Posted by Bus
Oh, and if anyone has mounted an amp on the rear deck somewhere... there could be screws going through the body into the tank... have heard of that happening a few times.
#6
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Thanks guys. These all pointed me to the correct solution. As jpit points out, the breather hose is a doozy - still trying to get the clamp unscrewed. But once it comes loose, I'm pretty sure the tank is coming free.
Any WYAI suggestions?
Peace,
Tim
Any WYAI suggestions?
Peace,
Tim
#7
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You should replace the cushioning rubbers that stop the tank chafing on bodywork- heavy duty stick on sponge strips type of thing; check the condition of the return hose - if its been pulled from tank a few times its end may be past its use by date, like mine - this will probably just pull off the steel line, replace with new hose and clip. Get a new sender unit 'gasket' (rubber ring), lubricate sender retainer nut to improve tightening; check tank to pump hose, replace if necessary; check and replace breather hoses also. Assemble new filter and pump on carrier on the bench. Check S pipe for condition also - they can become distorted when being tightened. Use new washers throughout.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k BTDT.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k BTDT.
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#8
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Originally Posted by 84-928S-inChicagoland
Any WYAI suggestions?