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Hood removal - BTDT tips?

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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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Default Hood removal - BTDT tips?

Hi Folks:

I want to put in a new hood liner (Thanks Rob!) and am guessing that removal of the old liner and cleaning is best done with the hood removed.

I was not able to find the procedure for hood removal in the shop manual (PDF version). Before I look again, I thought I'd inquire as to how simple the process is. Perhaps more importantly, how tough is it to get the sucka back in place?

Thanks as always.

Tim
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 05:17 PM
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It's a 2 person job, first you need to disconnect the windsheild washer jet hoses (pop the black cap off the hood and you can see where to disconnect them) and the light, then pop the struts off (get your buddy to hold the hood up while you unbolt your side), and finally unbolt the 4 bolts and lift off as a team. Make a note of how many shims there are.

Installation is opposite of removal.

I suppose its possible to do it alone but if you value your paint job get someone to help you.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Before taking the bolts out of the hood mark the location because the captive nut plates inside the hood MOVE !
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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When you re-install, remove the latch from the hood. This allows you to test and adjust the fit without having to "pop the hood" from inside every single damn time BTDT.

Rich
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:00 PM
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According to Rob & confirmed by others, best to remove the bolts of the brackets at the body, leaving the brackets with the hood instead of unbolting the hood at the brackets, leaving the brackets on the body. Apparently, experience says doing it that way allows for easier re-install & limits the hassel of lining things up & dealing with the shims.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Hi Tim,
I openned my hood, put a drop cloth over the engine and R & R'd my hood liner with the hood in place using 3m aerosol release agent that I had. I used a plastic putty knife and a plastic bondo squeegee thing to scrape, after each of 6-10 applications of spray. It's a little clumsy to reach everything but I was finished in 2 hours complete. I bet that's quicker than doing it with additional RE & R of hood. Good luck either way.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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Pull the hood. It gives you a chance to clean and wax the underside to match that new hood liner. Now that the hood is off, see how easy it is to fix/clean something else. Before you know it, you'll have the top of the engine apart! Let the fun begin!

Rich
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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I put my hood back on this morning!

-DON'T disconnect your hood from the hinges. There are three bolts where the hinge mechanism attaches to the body; remove these. As stated above, this is a two person job...for about 3 minutes. The hood weighs 18 pounds, and you just need your girlfriend/whatever to hold the front edge for a few minutes while you release the bolts [13 mm socket with an extension; on the passenger side, you'll need a 13 mm box/open end wrench for the bolt closest to the firewall. You should release the clips that hold the hood shocks first, via a flat blade screwdriver, but leave the shock ***** in place until you've got the hood loose. Make sure you disconnect the two electrical connectors between the hood and the body first!

Reinstallation is easy, but again your significant other is necessary. Attach the two forward bolts on each side of the hinge, and then install the struts. Push down on the clip with a flat blade screwdriver to get it back into place. Then, pushing down as best as you can on the back/closest to the windshield side of the hood, install the final bolts on each side. If you do it this way, you won't disturb the flat plates that Porsche used to space the hood left and right and it will likely be flat with your fenders. At least if your hood was flat with your fenders before you pulled it off....

Best of luck!

N!
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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good write up Norm. The only thing I would add is leave re-connecting the support shocks until all bolts are located. This shall mean longer assist from the SO or a broom handle.............not that there's anything wrong with that.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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These tips have been enormously helpful. Richard - I took the latch off first thanks to your tip. Mel, I did indeed remove the hood with the brackets attached to it. It does seem like it will be an easier reinstall this way.

Dave M - I'll need to get me some of that release agent. The Porsche hood liner was badly crumbling, but there's a thin layer of liner still epoxied to the hood underside. I'll look for that 3M product. I have the 3M 0808 product to adhere the new Rob M hood liner.

Norm - I'll be sure to refer to your reinstallation tips after I get the liner on.

More to come - thanks again, guys.

Tim
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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The hood is very light and can easily be removed by one person. All other tips above are good.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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Norm, others who have done this, I am about to remove my hood leaving the hinges on the hood, BUT, the rear bolt on the passenger sided won't clear the blower motor! I backed it out as far as possible but the head of the bolt hits the blower motor and it feels like the bolt still has a couple of threads in the captive nut. Did you force the bolt out, unbolt the blower motor??? Seems like others have removed the hinge from the body leaving it atached to the hood....Why me!!
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Glen.........I had the same issue so I removed the hinge from the hood. Very carefully scribe where the hinges are before loosing and removing the hood.

I had my wife assist on the re-install, aligned the scribe marks and installed the all bolts loosely before tightening.

Moving the blower motor is a royal pain.............I know as I had to replace mine.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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I have had the hood off several times. I find marking the bracket outline on the hood with a dry erase marker allows for perfect re-alignment every time. Outline the entire bracket, not just one line. The dry erase will wipe off later. I place a large pair of pliers (or piece of wood..) over the latch mechanism so the hood does not re-lock. I then remove the back to screws fron the hood and allow it to gently lean forward on the pliers so it won't lock. Then I remove the front two screws. Then I gently push down the back of the hood collapsing the hinge. Then I carefully grab the front of the hood an tip it up in the air. Then sliding my hands as far down the hood as poosible I lift it off by myself. If you have someone to help that's the way to go, however one person can easily do it themselves. Putting it back on is just the opposite.

As for the prep, take your time and get it good and clean. Rough up the surface a little with course sand paper to allow the adhesive more grip. Do not overuse the adhessive! about 1/3 to 1/2 can max. To much and it will come off later. Dry fit the liner first and trim to size. I found rolling the linner up helped in application. Tuck the leading edge under the hood trim and slowly unroll it onto the adhessive making sure you stay true and straight. I'd let it dry overnight or longer before re-installing the hood.

I had issues with my first liner, it kept coming off once the engine warmed up. Found out I used too much adhessive. Also wait to put the decal on untill after applied to hood. That way if the liner is slightly off center the decal can still be centered. Also if you screw up the liner (like me ) you're not out the decal as well, which will save you $20 on a re-order.

I have to say that Rob is a first class act! Even though most of my issues were opperator error, he took care of me on a new liner. Order from him with confidence.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Thanks Malcolm, I am thinking about pulling the blower motor out anyway to clean out the gunk on the fins while I have the hood off so I might try leaving the hinges on. Don't know if I want the extra work right now though.
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