Going GTS Brakes
08-07-2006 | 08:57 PM
#16
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by SwayBar
Cameron, the fading problem isn't/wasn't the S4 brakes, it's your poor choice of brake pads!
08-07-2006 | 11:03 PM
#17
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From: Berkeley, CA
Re: Motul 600 brake fluid
Motul is my brake fluid of choice. Extra headroom on the dry & wet boiling points. It's about double what Superblue costs, but that's still far far cheaper than other racing brake fluids. Audi guys use it because Superblue causes their clutches to squeak. After having a clutch slave cylinder failure and a clutch hose burst on Superblue, I went to Motul. I've never had a fluid fade issue and best of all, it's available at motorcycle shops everywhere. I have heard it's a little more hygroscopic than Superblue so it may require more frequent fluid changes in order to maintain that dry boiling point.
Re: street/track pad compromise
This all depends on what you consider a "compromise". For me, priority one is the pad to work at the track. Priority two is that the pads aren't so aggressive that they don't eat the rotors when cold, i.e. street driving.
Pagid Oranges work beautifully for this but there is one big compromise. Noise. After a track day, the pads will be completely quiet. Then after about a week or two of street driving, the pad material on the rotors will wear off and you will get squeal. They will squeal everytime you come to a stop at an intersection. I can live with this, but it's a compromise others might not make.
Motul is my brake fluid of choice. Extra headroom on the dry & wet boiling points. It's about double what Superblue costs, but that's still far far cheaper than other racing brake fluids. Audi guys use it because Superblue causes their clutches to squeak. After having a clutch slave cylinder failure and a clutch hose burst on Superblue, I went to Motul. I've never had a fluid fade issue and best of all, it's available at motorcycle shops everywhere. I have heard it's a little more hygroscopic than Superblue so it may require more frequent fluid changes in order to maintain that dry boiling point.
Re: street/track pad compromise
This all depends on what you consider a "compromise". For me, priority one is the pad to work at the track. Priority two is that the pads aren't so aggressive that they don't eat the rotors when cold, i.e. street driving.
Pagid Oranges work beautifully for this but there is one big compromise. Noise. After a track day, the pads will be completely quiet. Then after about a week or two of street driving, the pad material on the rotors will wear off and you will get squeal. They will squeal everytime you come to a stop at an intersection. I can live with this, but it's a compromise others might not make.
08-08-2006 | 12:06 AM
#18
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From: Chicago Bears
Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
....and cooling - keeping brakes cool is the #1 most important factor - along with pad choice and fluid choice.
Originally Posted by Dennis K
Re: Motul 600 brake fluid
Motul is my brake fluid of choice.
Motul is my brake fluid of choice.
Re: street/track pad compromise
This all depends on what you consider a "compromise". For me, priority one is the pad to work at the track. Priority two is that the pads aren't so aggressive that they don't eat the rotors when cold, i.e. street driving.
Pagid Oranges work beautifully for this but there is one big compromise. Noise. After a track day, the pads will be completely quiet. Then after about a week or two of street driving, the pad material on the rotors will wear off and you will get squeal. They will squeal everytime you come to a stop at an intersection. I can live with this, but it's a compromise others might not make.
This all depends on what you consider a "compromise". For me, priority one is the pad to work at the track. Priority two is that the pads aren't so aggressive that they don't eat the rotors when cold, i.e. street driving.
Pagid Oranges work beautifully for this but there is one big compromise. Noise. After a track day, the pads will be completely quiet. Then after about a week or two of street driving, the pad material on the rotors will wear off and you will get squeal. They will squeal everytime you come to a stop at an intersection. I can live with this, but it's a compromise others might not make.
C'mon guys, change out those pads!
03-21-2008 | 08:08 PM
#19
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Beverly Hills, CA
Tom do you still have the backing plates? I assume they are the dust shields your talking about right? PM sent
03-21-2008 | 09:09 PM
#20
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From: Shawnee, KS, USA
Ryan, see Anyone want some S4 brake rotor splash shields?; note that back when I did this, the GTS shields were pretty cheap from 928 Specialists. Also note that you've got to remove your wheel hubs to put on the bigger GTS shields.
03-21-2008 | 09:20 PM
#21
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From: Beverly Hills, CA
Ed,
I thought that was the case with having to remove hubs. In all honesty i dont have a problem with the S4 dust shields, i think they would provide adequite protection being that they are quite a bit taller then the S4 rotors themselves. I think with the GTS 322mm rotors the S4 dust shield would still shield the backsides from dirt and debris, but i also wouldnt mind trying to fill this giant gap in my wheel well with these giant 19" wheels!
OT: Does anyone else ever laugh when they see 20" wheels (chrome no doubt) and then see 8" brake drums painted bright red? Thats funny, i love it when that happens!
I thought that was the case with having to remove hubs. In all honesty i dont have a problem with the S4 dust shields, i think they would provide adequite protection being that they are quite a bit taller then the S4 rotors themselves. I think with the GTS 322mm rotors the S4 dust shield would still shield the backsides from dirt and debris, but i also wouldnt mind trying to fill this giant gap in my wheel well with these giant 19" wheels!
OT: Does anyone else ever laugh when they see 20" wheels (chrome no doubt) and then see 8" brake drums painted bright red? Thats funny, i love it when that happens!
03-21-2008 | 09:25 PM
#22
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Beverly Hills, CA
Hey Ed,
I was looking at your write up and wanted to ask a couple questions. I see you have what, 993 TT calipers right? I also assume you have 993 TT rotors yet they are not the compound type with the separate hat which is what i am interested in. Are your rotors standard 993 items? Or are they an earlier TT version?
care to expand if you know?
I was looking at your write up and wanted to ask a couple questions. I see you have what, 993 TT calipers right? I also assume you have 993 TT rotors yet they are not the compound type with the separate hat which is what i am interested in. Are your rotors standard 993 items? Or are they an earlier TT version?
care to expand if you know?
03-21-2008 | 09:47 PM
#23
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From: Shawnee, KS, USA
Hey Ed,
I was looking at your write up and wanted to ask a couple questions. I see you have what, 993 TT calipers right? I also assume you have 993 TT rotors yet they are not the compound type with the separate hat which is what i am interested in. Are your rotors standard 993 items? Or are they an earlier TT version?
care to expand if you know?
I was looking at your write up and wanted to ask a couple questions. I see you have what, 993 TT calipers right? I also assume you have 993 TT rotors yet they are not the compound type with the separate hat which is what i am interested in. Are your rotors standard 993 items? Or are they an earlier TT version?
care to expand if you know?
Looking at the 928SP site right now, though, I'm seeing this:
Brake GTS Front Rotor - CAST HOLE
Left 965.351.045.00 $212.44
Right 965.351.046.00 $212.44
IIRC, the "separate hat" rotors tend to be lighter and thus reduce unsprung weight. I'll probably go with them next time, assuming I can find what I need.