Rear shocks, which way do they cant? FIXED
#16
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Dave, thanks for the encouragement. I used a floor jack too, but not luck. I'll just wait for help tomorrow night. The beer does help.
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Yes, getting everything lined up in the rear suspension so that bolt can go through is a bit of a challenge. I found I had to use a jack and some wood blocks to get the lower shock eyelet up in position and even then it took some leverage with a long prybar at odd angles before it was finally lined up.
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Hey Bill. Yep, it's a B#$%@$tch. I got the bolt through the shock eyelet, the rear point of the control arm, and most of the carrier. I'm hung up on the the shoulder of the front conical washer on the carrier. Only 3 inches to go. Once I get this done, I'll let you know what I think of Koni's.
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I seem to remember that hang-up as well. I think it was close enough that a little encouragement with a 3 lb sledge did the job. You certainly don't want to damage the bolt threads, and I was conscious of that as I checked it out and decided to smack it a few times.
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Malcolm, that's what it took to get the bolt to go the last couple of inches. A pry bar between the forward top of the hub carrier and the wheel side CV joint, plus some pulling on a 15mm wrench fastened to a wheel lug, and with my other hand (actually a buddy) some blows with a 5 pound sledge. Plus some grease on the bolt, etc.
Just lowered the car off the jack stands and will go for a drive shortly.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Just lowered the car off the jack stands and will go for a drive shortly.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
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Bill, I'd sure like to know how they did it in the factory. Knowing the P engineers theres probably a 'special' tool thats worth more than the car.
Congrats on getting it done..........enjoy the ride.
Congrats on getting it done..........enjoy the ride.
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Malcolm, I think the proper procedure is to remove the brake calipers and rotors, giving complete access the to forward hole in the control arm. I guess the proper tool is a 24 inch socket extension, maybe a 1/2". Just enought to align things and to apply some pressure.
The car rides great. No more Cadillac ride on the highway. It's a bit stiff on rough pavement, like the right hand lanes that trucks use a lot. I have them adjusted at 3 turns out of 5 turns on the from softest.
The car rides great. No more Cadillac ride on the highway. It's a bit stiff on rough pavement, like the right hand lanes that trucks use a lot. I have them adjusted at 3 turns out of 5 turns on the from softest.
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Originally Posted by wds928
Malcolm, that's what it took to get the bolt to go the last couple of inches. A pry bar between the forward top of the hub carrier and the wheel side CV joint, plus some pulling on a 15mm wrench fastened to a wheel lug, and with my other hand (actually a buddy) some blows with a 5 pound sledge. Plus some grease on the bolt, etc.