Oil of choice?
#46
Ckecked with the manager of the automotive section at my local SuperWM and they will not be getting anymore 15W 50 M1. Does not know why.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#48
I had the oil temp sensor in my last 5 liter. on hot days and heated races, oil temp approached 280f, but not any higher. it was always a tick over 260f in all race conditions (as long as you were actaully racing) since it was so predictable and didnt ever change, i didnt put the system on the S4, mainly because it was a dipstick sensor, and it leaked out the seal. (vs the stock dipstick)
during street driving , even driving to the tracks, the oil never really got over 220f.
MK
during street driving , even driving to the tracks, the oil never really got over 220f.
MK
#49
Originally Posted by tv
Valvoline full synthetic 20 W50. I did a lot of reading and research before choosing and for all additives, foaming, etc. I chose that.
#51
Maybe Doug Hillary will add some input, but based on what I've seen, read, and been told, you need an oil cooler Mark. Now I'm not surprized that you were seeing oil pressure drops at idle with the Mobil-1 after coming off the track. Thicker oil is not an acceptable substitute for having proper oil temperature.
#52
Originally Posted by Jim R.
My local BJ's warehouse has a huge pallet of M-1 15-50. I may have to go stock up!
Jim
Jim
#53
pretty common to see 260 to 280f oil temps, especially by our 911 bretheren.
I need all sorts of things, but some how the ole dog just seems to keep on motoring along. i run at tracks with the highest g loading around, and with some of the fastest average speeds, yet it still shows no sign of wear. compression is still the same value that i had when i got the car 180/cylinder. cam lobs were not pitted, oil filter shows nothing. doesnt burn too much oil. (maybe 1 quart over an entire race weekend). My old 4.7 liter with 170,000miles, and 30,000 miles of just racing, was pulled apart and had no wear issues in any of the bearing or cylinders! I even used NOS extensively during racing where i could use it and it didnt do ALL the things that folks say NOS will do. why???? misunderstanding of the basic principles.
they say i need a transmission cooler too. however, its still shifting perfectly after 5 full racing seasons, and doesnt get notchy during a race, until the very end, but then usually, if im accurate with my blips, there is no issue. certainly not hard to get in any gear at any time.
So, what does this say? most folks say that if you want to test some theory, or prove a product, you do it on the race track and you do it repeatably. Hmmmm, isnt that what im doing? lap times are within .5 seconds of any times over the last 5 years. laps per race are within 1 second for most all laps, Im beating the snot out of the engine, every shift near redline, yet, no sign of wear, after what is the equivilant of 3 back to back 24 hours of Lemans. hmmmmm, maybe its Amzoil, maybe its luck, maybe you dont need all those coolers and things if you run the right oil. I dont know. what i do know is the way ive been doing it, is race tested. Im not babying the car either. keep in mind, at a technical track like Infinion, Im running almost 3 seconds faster than Mark Anderson the first time he race there in Speedvision in 2000, without 100 of so hp. so, Im certainly doing it with the car itself and making the most of what i have.
you guys are looking at oil performance from a mileage perspective, im looking at it from a wear and durability perspective. the oil pressure thing I saw, worries me. oil pressure lights shouldnt come on when the car is been beaten up! I saw this repeatably with mobil 1 and havent seen it with Amzoil or Redline 20-50.
I agree, an oil cooler may help with my car, but is the effort worth it. of course you know i do use an oil cooler, and its the stock stuff attached to the radiator. Plus, im using a stock radiator. never seen my temps approach the second white line, even on a hot day. guess the stock stuff works pretty well contrary to what many think. doesnt racing like ive been doing prove anything? (except luck?)
Mk
QUOTE=Larry928GTS]Maybe Doug Hillary will add some input, but based on what I've seen, read, and been told, you need an oil cooler Mark. Now I'm not surprized that you were seeing oil pressure drops at idle with the Mobil-1 after coming off the track. Thicker oil is not an acceptable substitute for having proper oil temperature.[/QUOTE]
I need all sorts of things, but some how the ole dog just seems to keep on motoring along. i run at tracks with the highest g loading around, and with some of the fastest average speeds, yet it still shows no sign of wear. compression is still the same value that i had when i got the car 180/cylinder. cam lobs were not pitted, oil filter shows nothing. doesnt burn too much oil. (maybe 1 quart over an entire race weekend). My old 4.7 liter with 170,000miles, and 30,000 miles of just racing, was pulled apart and had no wear issues in any of the bearing or cylinders! I even used NOS extensively during racing where i could use it and it didnt do ALL the things that folks say NOS will do. why???? misunderstanding of the basic principles.
they say i need a transmission cooler too. however, its still shifting perfectly after 5 full racing seasons, and doesnt get notchy during a race, until the very end, but then usually, if im accurate with my blips, there is no issue. certainly not hard to get in any gear at any time.
So, what does this say? most folks say that if you want to test some theory, or prove a product, you do it on the race track and you do it repeatably. Hmmmm, isnt that what im doing? lap times are within .5 seconds of any times over the last 5 years. laps per race are within 1 second for most all laps, Im beating the snot out of the engine, every shift near redline, yet, no sign of wear, after what is the equivilant of 3 back to back 24 hours of Lemans. hmmmmm, maybe its Amzoil, maybe its luck, maybe you dont need all those coolers and things if you run the right oil. I dont know. what i do know is the way ive been doing it, is race tested. Im not babying the car either. keep in mind, at a technical track like Infinion, Im running almost 3 seconds faster than Mark Anderson the first time he race there in Speedvision in 2000, without 100 of so hp. so, Im certainly doing it with the car itself and making the most of what i have.
you guys are looking at oil performance from a mileage perspective, im looking at it from a wear and durability perspective. the oil pressure thing I saw, worries me. oil pressure lights shouldnt come on when the car is been beaten up! I saw this repeatably with mobil 1 and havent seen it with Amzoil or Redline 20-50.
I agree, an oil cooler may help with my car, but is the effort worth it. of course you know i do use an oil cooler, and its the stock stuff attached to the radiator. Plus, im using a stock radiator. never seen my temps approach the second white line, even on a hot day. guess the stock stuff works pretty well contrary to what many think. doesnt racing like ive been doing prove anything? (except luck?)
Mk
QUOTE=Larry928GTS]Maybe Doug Hillary will add some input, but based on what I've seen, read, and been told, you need an oil cooler Mark. Now I'm not surprized that you were seeing oil pressure drops at idle with the Mobil-1 after coming off the track. Thicker oil is not an acceptable substitute for having proper oil temperature.[/QUOTE]