Soft brakes
07-08-2006, 12:49 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Soft brakes
The entire brake system in the car has bin changed,
lines, pads, master and booster.
SOFT BRAKES!
Would pulling the ABS relay or putting a new one in work?
lines, pads, master and booster.
SOFT BRAKES!
Would pulling the ABS relay or putting a new one in work?
07-08-2006, 11:07 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Did the calipers and bias regulator get looked at? Also it just may be an air bubble somewhere, or a fitting or bleeder that is not quite tight enough. Go with the simple stuff first, especially if all the other stuff has been changed.
And (this is my favorite brake issse source) the wheel bearings could be loose, and letting your rotors wobble. That would do it. - Ruf
And (this is my favorite brake issse source) the wheel bearings could be loose, and letting your rotors wobble. That would do it. - Ruf
07-08-2006, 11:22 AM
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Lines, pads, master, and booster are new. Pads are bedded. Greg's wheel bearings are not loose. His calipers are not leaking. There are no visible fluid leaks anywhere. Not at the calipers. Not at the flexible lines. Not at the master. Not at the ABS pump.
Three quarts of fluid have been pushed through the system with a pressure bleeder. If there's a bubble in the system then it is a very tenacious bubble.
Note also that the brakes are rock hard with no vacuum. It is only with vacuum assist that the brakes are 'soft'. ABS can be engaged. The car stops fast, well and repeatably. The problem is that there is a lot of pedal travel before you get any 'real' braking. It feels 'squishy' like there is a bubble in the system. But, they're ain't no bubble in the system...
Three quarts of fluid have been pushed through the system with a pressure bleeder. If there's a bubble in the system then it is a very tenacious bubble.
Note also that the brakes are rock hard with no vacuum. It is only with vacuum assist that the brakes are 'soft'. ABS can be engaged. The car stops fast, well and repeatably. The problem is that there is a lot of pedal travel before you get any 'real' braking. It feels 'squishy' like there is a bubble in the system. But, they're ain't no bubble in the system...
07-08-2006, 11:27 AM
#6
Team Owner
Hi maybe the NEW master is bad internal from sitting on a shelf for about 12 years, might be worth removing the master and a quick disassembly will tell you if there is corrosion in the bore or the seal have gotten cut
07-08-2006, 01:14 PM
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One thing that made me feel the pedal was soft once, was the fact that there was a bubble, but it was in the MC, I couldn't 'get it to flow out with a press. bleeder because it was in a spot where the fliuid could still get into the lines from the MC.
I had to raise the front of the car up on jackstands as high as I could possibley get it and remove the line at the top front of the MC and as the fluid came out I had to reconnect the line and continue bleeding at the caliper. It worked, but my '82 doesn't have that nice MC bleeder nipple that the newer cars have. - Ruf
I had to raise the front of the car up on jackstands as high as I could possibley get it and remove the line at the top front of the MC and as the fluid came out I had to reconnect the line and continue bleeding at the caliper. It worked, but my '82 doesn't have that nice MC bleeder nipple that the newer cars have. - Ruf
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07-08-2006, 08:32 PM
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Greg, when I drove you car I got 290 degrees front 220 rear. You're measuring the rotors right?
07-08-2006, 09:11 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by worf928
Note also that the brakes are rock hard with no vacuum. It is only with vacuum assist that the brakes are 'soft'. ABS can be engaged. The car stops fast, well and repeatably. The problem is that there is a lot of pedal travel before you get any 'real' braking. It feels 'squishy' like there is a bubble in the system. But, they're ain't no bubble in the system...
07-08-2006, 09:56 PM
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Shane, GG's checkvalve was installed backwards when we started. But, it is fixed - and tested - now. There was a vacuum leak in the cruise-control line, so that's disconnected and blocked at the splitter. The check valve at the booster tested good too.
07-09-2006, 01:48 AM
#14
Team Owner
Hi check the master cylinder for a good set of seals, you must disassemble it to see whats going on, no rear brakes means an internal fault, or a pinched line, or clogged brake pressure regulator my bet is the master if its new and the brakes dont work then it is a pretty good deal that the master has a bad seal
07-09-2006, 03:36 PM
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WAY BETTER
I pulled the ABS fuse!
f = 248
b= 211
Much better peddle! still a little soft.
just not bitty.
The right front likes to LOCK UP , but no pull ether way.
Now what?
f = 248
b= 211
Much better peddle! still a little soft.
just not bitty.
The right front likes to LOCK UP , but no pull ether way.
Now what?