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Since the last post was 2006, I thought it might help to push this thread to the top again.
Hopefully, it will help others that have developed the same problem since then.
Does anyone want a CWS unit that is not working to possibly repair and resell. This unit has no apparent component failures. Just pay shipping for me to send it to you?
Thanks everyone!
I am glad to hear that the writeup is helping others fix their CWS.
Mine is still working good. I did have to replace the PCB in the central indicator on the console. Now I can turn off the warning light and my door locks work right
Jim M. - Yes, by all means go ahead and include the writeup in the updated CD's.
I wanted to update this thread with a MY 88 failed central warning brain picture. The offending part is to the left of the black capacitor - note the scorched circuit board.
I am trying to solve a problem of no low coolant warning light in my instrument cluster. All other warning lights come on but there is no potential at the bulb socket. I have fully taken apart and reassembled the cluster and cleaned the circuit foil, it is in good condition.
I have inspected my central warning unit and see no obvious defects. Looking at the wiring diagram, my best guess is that bulb should be powered by terminal 1GE out of the unit? It is hard to tell but looks like brown/blue wire.
What I cannot decipher is whether that is the black or yellow socket. With the input socket plugged in (whichever that is), will I be able to test various output terminals for potential?
What are the symptoms of a CWS that needs rebuilding? My 82 has an issue where the high temp light flickers, then the ! light comes on when accelerating but I'm not sure if it's the CWS or a wiring issue.
I recently repaired my central warning system (CWS) controller on my 84.
If there is any interest, I was thinking of doing a write-up with pictures that would include disassembly, inspection, cleaning, reflowing solder joints, reseating the microcontroller, assembly and some limited testing with a multi-meter.
Let me know if anyone is interested?
Thanks for giving me the currage to open up this sucker😀. I have no lights at all.Found a burnt resistor, however I don't know how to find the right ohm and type. Does anyone have an idea of what to replace it with. I can't identify the bands as you can see. Any help is much appreciated!! Blown resistor
Careful about just replacing the resistor.. The bigger question is why did so much power go through the resistor that it was burned. 1 of 2 things... Bad original design in that the wattage of the resistor was too low, or worse there is something else wrong that caused this issue.
Resistor typically do not just fail. Capacitors, diodes, transistors are more of your failure type of items.
There is a big electrolytic cap to the right, these are notorious for going bad, looking at the gunk I would be suspicious of that as well..
My CWS has just failed. Came to the forums for some advise and find toreboee has the EXACT same failure. The resistor is toast and the capacitor is likely blown. All I know about the resistor is that it has a gold band - the rest is toasty black. It does read 2 ohms, though.
Does someone know the value of this resistor?
The small cap has this printed on it: 100/10 FRAKO P 5
Then larger cap has this printing : 100/16 FRAKO S 2
I'm guessing the smaller cap is 100mF 10V
and the large is 100mF 16 V
I managed to repair my CWS. One of the electrolytic capacitors failed. I replaced all four of them with higher voltage and temperature ones. Cost about $1. The burned resistor is 2.4 ohm 5% - about 4 cents. I also replaced the "ribbon" cables connecting the 2 halves.
06-02-2009, 10:16 AM
