Rod Underwood

Okay on my 82 5 speed, it starts great, but then doesn't want to run for a couple of minutes. It seems to be loading up, a couple of revs after about two minutes will clear its throat and then it runs great. Just letting it idle for a few minutes doesn't necessarily clear it. It is worse on cold start , but will do it sometimes on warm or hot start.

I've: (not in order)
1. switched out the MAF
2. replaced the plugs and wires
3. switched out the auxilary air valve - even though the old one tested to work
4. put in all new vaccum lines (and tested all vaccum lines)
5. switched out the high and low throttle switches.
6. replaced the plenum boots
7. unplugged the cold start injector - no change
8. thoroughly cleaned all grounds
9. removed the vaccum limiter and plugged the outlets
10. replaced the MAF "o" ring in the throttle body
11. replaced the throttle body/plenum connector
12. replaced the temp II sensor

I understand the "brain" was swapped out and it made no difference.

My brain is about ready to be swapped out, since it is exhausted.

It clearly acts like it has too much fuel and needs to be cleared out before it will run after start up. I really love his car and want to get the @#@#@$@ thing running correctly on start up. The compression and leakdown are well within limits.

I really had arrived at the conclusion that the cold start injector was not shutting off immediately, but disconnecting made no difference, except to cause it to start a bit harder.

Could it be an injector leaking upon start-up? It sometimes does the same thing when hot.

WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY BABY?

Rod

Mrmerlin

try removing the cold start valve see if it is leaking you can leave the fuel line connected

Rod Underwood

Thanks, I'll give that a try tonight.

Rod

PorKen

I don't see the thermo-time switch on your list?

I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?

Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?

I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.

hacker-pschorr

Mine was doing the same thing (as you know) - installing the blower cleared it up.

Just kidding...

I found my #3 intake runner had two gaskets under it - not sealing for sh*t. Do what I did to find it. Attack your engine (while running) with a bottle of brake cleaner - spray everything that has a seal.

My car has been running much better when cold. Still burps a bit the first time I hit the gas when it's ice cold - but runs fine other than that.

Rod Underwood

I have done this, but it will take a few trys to get it cleared out and not bog down and the problem is, it may reappear during the first couple of minutes, as I pull out of the parking lot into traffic, and then I'm ........!!!.(it's a nasty phrase).

Rod Underwood

I would love to use this as an excuse to get a blower, but I don't think that will fly with the S.O.

I've tried the spray before, but it sure won't hurt to try it again.

Rod

Rod Underwood

And, I haven't replaced the cold start valve yet. I just unplugged it and no change, except a harder start. Is that something that I just need to break down and do?

Rod

Daniel Dudley

How's the cap ? Really thick oil ? Wrong plug gap ? Dirty injectors ?Partially clogged injectors do not spray a fog. They spray a stream, and it won't vaporize in a cold engine. Techtron and a half tank of gas, or berrymans. As they say, pour it and floor it. Any excuse works for me.

PorKen

The thermo-time switch controls the duration of the cold start injector opening. It's the brown connector on the front of the coolant bridge (TempII is on top of the bridge).



It only gets power during cranking, and limits the cold start injector to a max of (7?) seconds, depending on coolant temp.

It doesn't sound like either of the cold start aux air valves you put in are opening far enough initially. There was a great thread about tuning the valve (here).

The first start of the day, after you start the car, rev it slowly up to 1500rpm, then blip it up over 2000rpm for a second. That should blow out the condensation.

Rod Underwood

Cap is like new, 20W50 Synthetic oil after some staright 30 weight for about a week to clean the engine after it had been sitting.

Don't know about the injectors, but I've run two cycles of Techtron and it seems to make no difference. Runs great afte my start ordeal. I had to replace the fuel pump (and filter) and when draining the tank,it was clean as you could imagine.

I'm happy to floor it, but, so far no luck. ;-)

Thanks,
Rod

Rod Underwood

I'll replace the thermo-time switch and see if that helps.


I regularlly do the start rev, etc, but it's just a pain in the parking lot, (you know what I mean), and I wish it wasn't necessary.

I tried to call MrMerlin to see how you pull the cold start injector without detaching the lines. I'll try to get him later or tomorrow and pursue that as well. I assume I need to start it to pressurize the system and then immediately pull the injector.

I just tired spraying again to find vaccum links, but nothing shows up.


Thanks for the help,

Rod

Rod Underwood

I did unplug the cold start injector on Jim 928's advise, but it ran the same, just started a bit harder.

I've replaced the exhaust system with an 87 with dual cats and then duals on back - that made no difference in the way it ran, it just sounds a lot better when it does run.

I also replaced the O2 sensor as well. I forgot to mention that.

Thanks, keep the suggestions coming.

Rod

PorKen

You can plug the line with a bolt and cap nut, like so:

Jack Riffle

Wow Ken, does that actually hold the pressure?