Lets try this again. (starts then "almost" dies, then staggers, then runs great)
06-30-2006, 01:43 PM
#31
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Andrew - I have my idle switch disconnected - has nothing to do with idle or cold starting. The WOT also has nothing to do with idle or starting. With both removed it would not cause a cold start issue.
07-01-2006, 09:37 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
It's either too lean or too rich when cold - starting. My money is on too lean - not enough fuel going in (need to choke it). Pulling the lines off the regulators will cause full pressure at all time. Cannot hurt anything.
Hacker,
pulled the lines off the regulators and it helped a lot. Do I have bad regulator(s)? 
It still hesitates when i first start it, but the minute later ******* down is almost gone. Seems to have solved the problem about 80%. Obviously this means that something is not functioning properly and this is only a bandaid.Can I continue to run it without vaccum to these two regulators without any problem (I believe you suggested that it wouldn't hurt, but long term..?
Thanks
Rod
p.s. Can you PM me regarding the cost of your blower system - installed? I just read the posting and it looks great - "tire shredder", I'm from that time period.
07-01-2006, 11:14 AM
#33
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Can you run with these lines removed? Yes
Should you? Well.......what will happen is you will be running fuel fuel pressure all the time - even at idle. This could foul plugs, kill the CAT - bascially you are flooding the motor. So, a temp way to drive the car? Yes - once 100% fixed - run some fuel injection cleaner through the motor & change the oil.
Now the big question - why? Even when cold the fuel pressure regulators should only be allowing 30psi or so of fuel pressure. So either the injectors are not being told by the ECU to run the cold cycle (if there is one) or too much air is entering the motor when cold. My car still stumbles when ice cold, need to rev up 1-2 times before I drive anywhere. It's not the aux air valve - I used a huge hose clamp to bascially take it out of the system - nothing changed.
Originally when my car was really bad like yours - I had two gaskets under the #3 intake runner. So much air was being sucked in to the motor, it couldn't compensate.
About my blower - it's a one off system. Carl is currently the only person selling kits for the L-Jet cars at 928motorsports.com
Uh oh - Wife is calling, something about a "lets finish some projects" weekend. Sure, I took off 5 days to go to Indy for the F1 race, that trip was cancelled so now I have to work?
Should you? Well.......what will happen is you will be running fuel fuel pressure all the time - even at idle. This could foul plugs, kill the CAT - bascially you are flooding the motor. So, a temp way to drive the car? Yes - once 100% fixed - run some fuel injection cleaner through the motor & change the oil.
Now the big question - why? Even when cold the fuel pressure regulators should only be allowing 30psi or so of fuel pressure. So either the injectors are not being told by the ECU to run the cold cycle (if there is one) or too much air is entering the motor when cold. My car still stumbles when ice cold, need to rev up 1-2 times before I drive anywhere. It's not the aux air valve - I used a huge hose clamp to bascially take it out of the system - nothing changed.
Originally when my car was really bad like yours - I had two gaskets under the #3 intake runner. So much air was being sucked in to the motor, it couldn't compensate.
About my blower - it's a one off system. Carl is currently the only person selling kits for the L-Jet cars at 928motorsports.com
Uh oh - Wife is calling, something about a "lets finish some projects" weekend. Sure, I took off 5 days to go to Indy for the F1 race, that trip was cancelled so now I have to work?
