928ntslow

Nevermind...I just threw a multi meter on the tabs and grounded...pushed the buttons and we have good contact on both.

False alarm.

928ntslow

OK...I took the steering wheel off as well as the horn ring/turn signal assembly. I had inspected all components and connections. I also checked continuity from contact to contact on both the wheel and assembly. No resistance, all works well.

I blew 3 fuses after i got it all back together checking to see what is happening. So nothing has changed. Horn toots fine, but when you hold it for more than a second, the fuse blows.

I checked the voltage at the fuse and am gettin 11.96v on the hot side, no change when horn buttons depressed. I was thinking about putting a fresh fuse in and checking the "-" side of the fuse until it blows, but thought what good would that do me?

Could this be an issue of resistance as the circuit is energized for more than a second? How about the fact that this circuit is tied to the Rear Wiper Resetting (what ever the hell that is). Anyone know if the relay is tied in and this may be causing the issue? And "NO", when the rear wiper switch is depressed, the fuse does not blow. BTW, fuse is 15A and that is what is called for.

Uhm...help?

macreel

Keith... do you have the blade type automotive fuses??

If so, try the slo-blo variety by Littlefuse, the Maxi line,
series 299.

Or a slo-blo torpedo type, if you've got the old style fuses.


G'luck.

zoltan944

as much as i may be the only one (doubt it, but not sure how many will admit it) when i get a fuse that blows constantly and make an honest attempt to track it down, i put it the next highest fuse. In this case 20. Then try the horn, if it blows THAT fuse something is wrong, if it doesn't you get an opertunity to keep checking things without it blowing so easily, also check if things get warm etc... If you still can't track it down leave the 20 in there, what if it pulling 15.5 to blow your horn?

zoltan944

btw 78-84 uses a 16amp
85 on uses a 15 LOL

928ntslow

I use exactly what the rest of them are...what ever brand that is.

I am not one for just upping the fuse amperage rating. Last I knew, that was a big No No.

I need to figure this out.

Thanks

Jim M.

Keith,

I had the exact same problem with my 93 GTS. One of the horns was shorted internally. It would toot with short blasts, but if I beeped longer than a short toot it blew the fuse. Pull the two horns (RH wheel well, under the headlight) and check them with a multimeter. I replaced one horn and the problem is gone!

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

macreel

Keith... the slo-blo just resists the inrush current the
horn uses; has the same (15)amp rating as your old fuse
(#24, by the schematic).




G'luck.

p.s. Have you unplugged the rear wiper motor (to
isolate it from the horn power) ??

928ntslow

I guess it is worth a shot. I just hate masking things rather than finding out the real problem. Haven't unplugged motor yet.

928SS

just try unplugging one of the horns. if it holds, then try swapping the wires, see if it blows. if it does, then you've got the culprit.

928ntslow

Good advice fellow's! I will try these thing s and report back!

Randy V

Second 928ss's advice.

Had a similar problem on my previous car and this is how I resolved it.

Mrmerlin

Hi try removing the horn wires one at a time you may have to open up the passenger side wheel well to get easy access, one of the horns will probably be internally shorted also if this doent help then remove both horns and connect each one to 12 volt power see if they beep continuously chances are one will only beep for a few seconds before internally grounding, also check the ground wires for a good ground

macreel

Keith... while remounting my chin spoiler (struck a low curb),
I measured resistance of my horns (probably about like
yours) and got ~1.6 ohms each, or 0.8 in parallel, so a dc
current draw of ~ 15 A. Tones ~ 682 & 576 Hz., or F & D an
octave above middle C.


G'luck.

928ntslow

I expect to have a look this weekend to run the routine. Will report back...