Steen Jensen

First off , how do you remove the hub from the suspension assy. I removed the 2 large nuts on either end thinking that it is a shaft that runs through the bottom of the carrier and lower shock assy. After a few whacks with the BFH there appears to be no movement of said shaft. I don't want to get too enthusiastic with the BFH...is there a trick to this?

Rod Underwood

If you're talking about the horizontal shaft that holds the lower suspension and the shock on, if you take the nut off the other side and double nut the side you're working on, shoot some Kroil up in through the center opening and turn it as you gently "whack" on it, from front to back, it should come out.

When you put it back, remember to "slather" it with antiseize.

Now, maybe I'm talking about the wrong shaft.

Rod

Steen Jensen

Rod

Yes , that's the one. It seemed to be so solidly in place that I thought there might be some special procedure. I will try what you suggested. Thanks.

Rod Underwood

It worked on my 82. You want to make sure you have the suspension supported so that the shaft isn't supporting any more load than it has to. I Kroiled everything up a couple of days in advance just to give me an edge.

Good luck,
Rod

Steen Jensen

Rod

The whole rear suspension is lying on the garage floor apart from the car so no problem with support.

There are some holes in the bottom of the hub carriers that I sprayed a lot of WD40 into. I'll let everything soak overnight.

Rod Underwood

The WD40 may be fine, I've never had great luck with it. I realize you won't want to wait, but you might want to invest in some Kroil for the future. It's amazing stuff. Here's a link to their web site and they were running some sort of special recently giving you a small aerosol can as well as the "gallon" that I got. ;-)
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Steen Jensen

Well , this thing is going to fight me all the way.

There is movement between the shock bushes and the trailing arm bushes but where the shaft goes through the hub carrier it is siezed solid. It appears that this shaft must come out in one directon only.

Even with double nutting the shaft it is starting to mushroom with all the hammering. I don't want to use heat as it will destroy the rubber bushes. I think my only other option at this point is to take the assy to someone with a hydraulic press but I have seen that end badly in the past with other projects.

Any advice or comments?

Jim bailey - 928 International

We sell good used pivot pin shaft /bolts for $35 each... the shaft should go both ways

Steen Jensen

Thanks Jim. If I ever get this thing out I'll probably need one. Is it your experience that this is a pretty common problem?

Jim bailey - 928 International

Those cars which have seen wet weather, snow and it hurts to even say it ,SALT.... those pins get corroded. Here in Southern California no problem

Steen Jensen

OK , that explains that. I'm embarrassed to admit that I drove this car through 3 Nova Scotia winters. I can see the shaft through the hole in the bottom of the carrier and it is quite rusty. I hope I dont ruin the carrier when I go the hyd press route...

Bill Ball

You didn't say whether you had hit it with Kroil yet. PB Blaster is another penetrant that is far better than WD.

Steen Jensen

Bill

No Kroil. Called a couple of places this morning but no one seems to have it. Any suggestions of an outfit in Canada that might carry it?

Bill Ball

Not familiar with Canadien sources, but these should be in major automotive/truck parts chains. Try gun shops too.

PB Blaster may be more commonly available and is very good.

Bill Ball

I did a Google for Kroil in Canada and came up with:

NAPA in Canada carries PB Blaster.

Gunshops for Kroil.