Rear Wheel Bearings
06-20-2006, 04:22 PM
#16
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06-20-2006, 04:43 PM
#17
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The double nuts was so you could "lock" the nut on the end of the shaft and then be able to turn it while you "encouraged" it out from the other end. At this point, it sound like the shaft is toast, but you still obviously need to get it out. I'd soak it good with at least PB if you can't find the Kroil and let it sit. Soak it for a couple of days, trying to turn it and encouraging it. I'll bet the soaking will do the trick. I had a couple of shock adjusters that seemed like they were solid, but a few hours of Kroil and they tapped right off. Did I mention that I like, hmmmm, what was the name of that stuff? 
Rod
Rod
Originally Posted by Steen Jensen
Well , this thing is going to fight me all the way.
There is movement between the shock bushes and the trailing arm bushes but where the shaft goes through the hub carrier it is siezed solid. It appears that this shaft must come out in one directon only.
Even with double nutting the shaft it is starting to mushroom with all the hammering. I don't want to use heat as it will destroy the rubber bushes. I think my only other option at this point is to take the assy to someone with a hydraulic press but I have seen that end badly in the past with other projects.
Any advice or comments?
There is movement between the shock bushes and the trailing arm bushes but where the shaft goes through the hub carrier it is siezed solid. It appears that this shaft must come out in one directon only.
Even with double nutting the shaft it is starting to mushroom with all the hammering. I don't want to use heat as it will destroy the rubber bushes. I think my only other option at this point is to take the assy to someone with a hydraulic press but I have seen that end badly in the past with other projects.
Any advice or comments?
06-20-2006, 05:35 PM
#18
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Rod
I understood your advice and tried it. First tried to loosen it with a half inch. drive ratchet...then a little shock treatment with some raps to the ratchet...then a six foot cheater pipe attached to the ratchet...all to no avail. Didn't budge.
I'm back to beating it to death as the part is now toast anyway. Still no luck. I will try and get some of that Pb blaster and let it soak.
If all else fails I'll cut the frikken thing off...
I understood your advice and tried it. First tried to loosen it with a half inch. drive ratchet...then a little shock treatment with some raps to the ratchet...then a six foot cheater pipe attached to the ratchet...all to no avail. Didn't budge.
I'm back to beating it to death as the part is now toast anyway. Still no luck. I will try and get some of that Pb blaster and let it soak.
If all else fails I'll cut the frikken thing off...
06-20-2006, 06:05 PM
#19
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Sorry, I wasn't sure based on what you had posted.
Jim is undoubtedly correct, but I had thought that the shaft had a step in it and would only come out toward the rear. He's go a zillion times more knowledge and experience than I do. (and a lot more hair on his face if you can believe those 928 catalog photos)
Good luck.
Rod
Jim is undoubtedly correct, but I had thought that the shaft had a step in it and would only come out toward the rear. He's go a zillion times more knowledge and experience than I do. (and a lot more hair on his face if you can believe those 928 catalog photos)
Good luck.
Rod
Originally Posted by Steen Jensen
Rod
I understood your advice and tried it. First tried to loosen it with a half inch. drive ratchet...then a little shock treatment with some raps to the ratchet...then a six foot cheater pipe attached to the ratchet...all to no avail. Didn't budge.
I'm back to beating it to death as the part is now toast anyway. Still no luck. I will try and get some of that Pb blaster and let it soak.
If all else fails I'll cut the frikken thing off...
I understood your advice and tried it. First tried to loosen it with a half inch. drive ratchet...then a little shock treatment with some raps to the ratchet...then a six foot cheater pipe attached to the ratchet...all to no avail. Didn't budge.
I'm back to beating it to death as the part is now toast anyway. Still no luck. I will try and get some of that Pb blaster and let it soak.
If all else fails I'll cut the frikken thing off...
06-20-2006, 06:57 PM
#20
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Man, that is stuck! It should slip out with mild encouragement from a few gentle raps with a 3 lb sledge on the end of the bolt to get it started.
You can order Kroil online from the manufacturer (and other vendors), as anonymous noted, but gun/hunting shops are said to carry it.
You can order Kroil online from the manufacturer (and other vendors), as anonymous noted, but gun/hunting shops are said to carry it.
06-20-2006, 08:31 PM
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Went to NAPA and they didn't have the PB blastor. Dropped by a few other auto supply shops and no luck there either. You guys in the US get all the good stuff.
I'll be in the US next week and try to hunt some of this stuff down. Meanwhile I bought a bigger hammer and some hack saw blades. Jeez....
I'll be in the US next week and try to hunt some of this stuff down. Meanwhile I bought a bigger hammer and some hack saw blades. Jeez....
07-19-2006, 07:22 PM
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Today I finally got that shaft out. I had to cut the shaft on each side of the hub carrier to remove it from the trailing link. The pieces in the TL fell right out but the piece in the hub carrier required a 20 ton press to push out and it did not give up without a fight. The aluminum bores through which the shaft passes show signs of serious dissimiliar metal corrosion. Hope I can save the hub.