Starting problem , wont idle, 90 GT
06-10-2006, 12:28 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Starting problem , wont idle, 90 GT
Ok, after 3 months ive got the new engine in the car, everything is hooked up except for the final muffler, radiator (cooling system) and none of the belts, (ac, alternator, PS, smog) are securely fitted.
I wanted to get the thing to idle for a few to finally hear the thing run albeit for only a minute, but i cant get the car to settle down and idle. It fires but wont idle and just dies.
I did notice that the throttle cable and entire pivot mechanish that attaches to the intake is a bit sticky. The cable from the throbble body is nice but the chasis cable seems to stick somewhat. I mention this because i did crank it and when it fired i put my foot on the gas and it sure reved but it didnt come down so i immediately killed it with the key.
This car has been pretty much dead for the past 4 months, i bought it in nonrunning condition so there maybe some other issue besides the obvious one, the engine.
Has anyone had similiar symptoms on startup?
any comments would be appreciated
Ryan
I wanted to get the thing to idle for a few to finally hear the thing run albeit for only a minute, but i cant get the car to settle down and idle. It fires but wont idle and just dies.
I did notice that the throttle cable and entire pivot mechanish that attaches to the intake is a bit sticky. The cable from the throbble body is nice but the chasis cable seems to stick somewhat. I mention this because i did crank it and when it fired i put my foot on the gas and it sure reved but it didnt come down so i immediately killed it with the key.
This car has been pretty much dead for the past 4 months, i bought it in nonrunning condition so there maybe some other issue besides the obvious one, the engine.
Has anyone had similiar symptoms on startup?
any comments would be appreciated
Ryan
06-10-2006, 03:56 AM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think the engine may be doing you a huge favor! I do not recommend starting the engine without the cooling system functioning. Heat can spread very quickly and you can damage the heads and block.
The best procedure for starting a car after a prolonged sit is to completly drain and flush the fuel system, replace the fuel filter, remove the fuel injectors and have them cleaned and flow tested, and make a flow test of the fuel pump. Lastly drain and replace the engine oil and filter. It is a good idea to remove the LH, EZK and fuel pump relays, remove the spark plugs - squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders to help loosen the rings, and crank the engine to get clean / fresh oil into all the journals.
Your cam belt may be too old (recommended no more than 7 years old) and out of adjustment. Water pumps that sit for a long time can also fail.
When all that (and the cooling system) are in working order, try and start it up. If it doesn't start, a step by step diagnosis is necessary.
The best procedure for starting a car after a prolonged sit is to completly drain and flush the fuel system, replace the fuel filter, remove the fuel injectors and have them cleaned and flow tested, and make a flow test of the fuel pump. Lastly drain and replace the engine oil and filter. It is a good idea to remove the LH, EZK and fuel pump relays, remove the spark plugs - squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders to help loosen the rings, and crank the engine to get clean / fresh oil into all the journals.
Your cam belt may be too old (recommended no more than 7 years old) and out of adjustment. Water pumps that sit for a long time can also fail.
When all that (and the cooling system) are in working order, try and start it up. If it doesn't start, a step by step diagnosis is necessary.
06-10-2006, 04:22 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Rich,
all good recomendations, in my case the engine has new blueprinted injectors, new fuel pump, oil pump all resealed etc. The timing belt and waterpump are a year or so old and tension was previously checked. The car should start, hold idle etc. regardless of colling system. keep in mind, the idea was to start the car run it for 20 seconds or so and kill it, I basically wanted to hear the thing as ive never heard it make a sound since i bought it.
Come to think of it, I do have one mysterious thing with the car. I piced up the car at Devek where they diagnosed the cars origional engine with a TB problem, I noticed when i put in the new clutch MC that there is a large connector, probably 20-30 pins, like the EZK connector directly under the drivers side dash, it was detached, and had what looked like a single orange jumper wire from the module that it hooks up into, to the harness that it looks like its supposed to hook up into. I will call Devek in the morning and see if they know what this under dash connection is supposed to be ,anyone else have any idea what wiring goes through such said connector?
I will would bet that the jumpered wire conects the male and female plugs of the same circuit together, why it was removed is beyond me, hopefully that will explain my problem.
all good recomendations, in my case the engine has new blueprinted injectors, new fuel pump, oil pump all resealed etc. The timing belt and waterpump are a year or so old and tension was previously checked. The car should start, hold idle etc. regardless of colling system. keep in mind, the idea was to start the car run it for 20 seconds or so and kill it, I basically wanted to hear the thing as ive never heard it make a sound since i bought it.
Come to think of it, I do have one mysterious thing with the car. I piced up the car at Devek where they diagnosed the cars origional engine with a TB problem, I noticed when i put in the new clutch MC that there is a large connector, probably 20-30 pins, like the EZK connector directly under the drivers side dash, it was detached, and had what looked like a single orange jumper wire from the module that it hooks up into, to the harness that it looks like its supposed to hook up into. I will call Devek in the morning and see if they know what this under dash connection is supposed to be ,anyone else have any idea what wiring goes through such said connector?
I will would bet that the jumpered wire conects the male and female plugs of the same circuit together, why it was removed is beyond me, hopefully that will explain my problem.
06-10-2006, 04:32 AM
#6
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
Rich,
Come to think of it, I do have one mysterious thing with the car. I piced up the car at Devek where they diagnosed the cars origional engine with a TB problem, I noticed when i put in the new clutch MC that there is a large connector, probably 20-30 pins, like the EZK connector directly under the drivers side dash, it was detached, and had what looked like a single orange jumper wire from the module that it hooks up into, to the harness that it looks like its supposed to hook up into. I will call Devek in the morning and see if they know what this under dash connection is supposed to be ,anyone else have any idea what wiring goes through such said connector?
I will would bet that the jumpered wire conects the male and female plugs of the same circuit together, why it was removed is beyond me, hopefully that will explain my problem.
Come to think of it, I do have one mysterious thing with the car. I piced up the car at Devek where they diagnosed the cars origional engine with a TB problem, I noticed when i put in the new clutch MC that there is a large connector, probably 20-30 pins, like the EZK connector directly under the drivers side dash, it was detached, and had what looked like a single orange jumper wire from the module that it hooks up into, to the harness that it looks like its supposed to hook up into. I will call Devek in the morning and see if they know what this under dash connection is supposed to be ,anyone else have any idea what wiring goes through such said connector?
I will would bet that the jumpered wire conects the male and female plugs of the same circuit together, why it was removed is beyond me, hopefully that will explain my problem.
06-10-2006, 04:47 AM
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
damn,
thats probably correct, because i do have 94 GTS wheels on the car, which dont have the RDK system.
The jumper wire is a y on one end going to two slots the other end goes to another. I was just under there but i cannot see a part number on the module to verify what it is.
And if it was engine critical, then i dont think i would have been able to even crank the engine at all. Thanks for pointing that out, i wish it was as easy as that though.
thats probably correct, because i do have 94 GTS wheels on the car, which dont have the RDK system.
The jumper wire is a y on one end going to two slots the other end goes to another. I was just under there but i cannot see a part number on the module to verify what it is.
And if it was engine critical, then i dont think i would have been able to even crank the engine at all. Thanks for pointing that out, i wish it was as easy as that though.
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06-10-2006, 05:35 AM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
also,
this may sound like a dumb question but i have to ask, i assume its possible to have the wiring switched for the ezk and LH computers. They seem do use exactly the same connection. But I assume that had they been switched i would never get the car to fire at all. It would jsut spin if anything but never fire up.
this may sound like a dumb question but i have to ask, i assume its possible to have the wiring switched for the ezk and LH computers. They seem do use exactly the same connection. But I assume that had they been switched i would never get the car to fire at all. It would jsut spin if anything but never fire up.
06-14-2006, 07:34 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
follow up
I wanted to post a follow up and say thanks to Rich for your help with this issue.
In my rush to just hear the engine run, and not hold idle and ultimately die i attribute it to the following. I was replacing the rubber lines that go to the manifold cover on the drivers side of the car, I believe that was what cause the car to die. I also noticed that my throttle cable for the chasis, was hung up and binding causing the fast idle, I had tried to hold the cable that goes to the throttle body itself back but once i found the chasis cable and fixed it and reattached the above mentioned pcv line to the manifold it started right up, although it was idling at about 2000 rpm, i then adjusted the slack in the cable from the bracket to the throttle body and the car settled down. I didnt run it for more then 10 secnds once it was running i killed it, fitted the radiator and all hoses and put coolant in it and all seems to be well.
I do have a squeeling , grinding noise very slight which i attribute to the smog pump, i had it removed for engine reinstillation and noticed that when it was left sitting for a couple days the pully froze and i couldnt turn it by hand, I removed it and sprayed some WD40 in it pretty good, it moves now and is free but it is noisy.
so i guess in conclusion, for those that my in the future read this, make sure all your lines are connected before firing the engine, i knew of the disconnected line when i origionally couldnt get it to idle but didnt think that in itself would kill the car, I WAS WRONG, make sure all your vacumn lines and such are attached and working properly,. I am glad it was jsut that and that i didnt have to check for electrical problems.
good luck
In my rush to just hear the engine run, and not hold idle and ultimately die i attribute it to the following. I was replacing the rubber lines that go to the manifold cover on the drivers side of the car, I believe that was what cause the car to die. I also noticed that my throttle cable for the chasis, was hung up and binding causing the fast idle, I had tried to hold the cable that goes to the throttle body itself back but once i found the chasis cable and fixed it and reattached the above mentioned pcv line to the manifold it started right up, although it was idling at about 2000 rpm, i then adjusted the slack in the cable from the bracket to the throttle body and the car settled down. I didnt run it for more then 10 secnds once it was running i killed it, fitted the radiator and all hoses and put coolant in it and all seems to be well.
I do have a squeeling , grinding noise very slight which i attribute to the smog pump, i had it removed for engine reinstillation and noticed that when it was left sitting for a couple days the pully froze and i couldnt turn it by hand, I removed it and sprayed some WD40 in it pretty good, it moves now and is free but it is noisy.
so i guess in conclusion, for those that my in the future read this, make sure all your lines are connected before firing the engine, i knew of the disconnected line when i origionally couldnt get it to idle but didnt think that in itself would kill the car, I WAS WRONG, make sure all your vacumn lines and such are attached and working properly,. I am glad it was jsut that and that i didnt have to check for electrical problems.
good luck
