RyanPerrella

Ok, Ive read the thread by Schoki about the bearing removal and how he used a bit to remove the needle bearings. Ive got the actual needles out but now the outer bearing case is now still in the manifold with nothing to pry not o remove it for new bearing installation.

At this point I am about ready to just take the manifold to a machine shop and have them drilled out, these damn bearings have been a real PITA!

has anyone actually done this and could comment on any tips they may have or tools used possibly.

I'm at my whits end with these things

Thanks

Ryan

Mrmerlin

Hi if your careful try bending the edge of the bearing up with some small vice grips,then try knocking the edge inwards you will need a sharp punch or awl work carefully so you dont damage the seat area of the bearing to install put the bearings in the freezer heat the intake with a hair drier then use a socket that fits the circumfrerence of the new bearing and tap it in NOTE the bearing has a rubber seal on one edge this faces to the outside or away from the flappy throttle valve, of the intake to keep out water and dirt and prevent vacuum leaks

Jfrahm

I've removed bearing shells like that by cutting a little screwdriver tip into a sharp V and then tapping it into the shell with a hammer, splitting the shell.

It's like a small version of a pneumatic exhaust pipe cutter:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...5299/55234.gif

-Joel.

Ketchmi

How about just doing the way that you are supposed to with an internal bearing remover on a draw or a slide hammer? Another thought....MrMerlin...either way the bearing is in stalled, it should stop vacuum leaks with the ruber seal, but I buy the idea of the seal being on the outside for dirt shielding!

RyanPerrella

Ketchmi,

Thats how i removed the pilot bearing, but ive had a hard time finding something small emough to get in the bearing with a thin enough tip to get under the bearing. Its nearly bottomed out on boss in the manifold.

I think i spotted a small slide hammer at harbor freight that i may try tomorrow, I will post results on that endeavor.

Schocki

I agree with Sterling, the easiest method is to use a Dremel and cut through the outer bearing that is left in the manifold. This will allow to "collapse" the bearing. This method releases the tension of the pressed in bearing and it comes right out with hand tools.

Mrmerlin

Hi yeah that would be the best way Dave but most homebuilders dont have the 300.00 snapon tools slide hammer that we have at the shop, and the rubber seal goes to the outside of the manifold if I didnt make it clear, Stan

edco

Hey,

I did mine tonight and followed Schocki's Thread right down to the 9901 dremel bit Worked great, just take it slow and easy.

blown 87

I do not know if this will help or not, or if you can use this tip on this bearing.

A lot of times here at our shop when we have a bearing that just wont come out, we weld a bead on the race of the bearing that we want to shrink, and when it cools it will fall out.

If the bearing is in a alumimin housing you have to take it slow with the welding not to over heat any thing, but it does work very well.

RyanPerrella

I just wanted to thank everyone that posted. The dremel tip ended up being the one the ultimately prevailed.

Thanks again for the help!

Ryan

Rob Edwards

Dremel 9901 FTW!

It's a bit nerve wracking taking a tungsten carbide tip to the intake, drinking decaf helps.....

RyanPerrella

Since this came up.

Ive got a pair of the bearing available for $20 plus shipping, and when you buy you get the above mentioned bit that i used for free. Limited supplies available, ACT NOW, free bonus drill bit included a $90.00 VALUE, FREE!

chaadster

Hey Ryan,

I'm gonna pull my intake and valve covers for a refurb here pretty soon, so I'll take you up on the bearings/bit offer.

But wait...since I'm acting know, I'm going to insist that you throw in the combination vegetable dicer/slicer/Bosch injector removal tool....

PM sent.

MilesOrbell

As Schoki stated in his thread, the seals go on the inside towards the flap valve. I have just done mine, and they were also like this from the factory.

Like all oil seals they will only hold pressure from one side, I believe if they are installed on the outside, air may be sucked past the seal.

derporsche928

Miles, you are correct-o-mundo..... Just did mine a few weeks ago also....
The seals DO go on the inside towards the flap itself.....
They may not be directional-type seals though..... Looked like o-rings to me....

FWIW, Also, don't forget to set the positive stop underneath....
Set it so that the flap itself doesn't hit the manifold ID too hard, and wear grooves in it, which can cause it to stick closed..... I've done three, and they've all had grooves in varying degrees...., but they needn't have if set properly....

Best,