no spark at all??
05-29-2006, 01:03 PM
#16
Under the Lift
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Check the voltage from the crank sensor across pins 23 and 6 on the EZK plug. John and Dave suggest using the AC setting on your VOM since this is a sine wave spike not a steady DC voltage. Thanks, John and Dave.
Although this is the likely culprit in general, I'm thinking all kinds of things could have shook loose when you bounced off the rev limiter. it's a pretty good shake. It could be the connector for the crank sensor. Remove the air filter box completely and you will spot the sensor on the top of the bellhousing. Try to trace the lead. Unfortunately there is a lot of plumbing in the way. Anyway, that's why I mentioned the other connectors, as well.
Glad to hear the TB is intact.
Although this is the likely culprit in general, I'm thinking all kinds of things could have shook loose when you bounced off the rev limiter. it's a pretty good shake. It could be the connector for the crank sensor. Remove the air filter box completely and you will spot the sensor on the top of the bellhousing. Try to trace the lead. Unfortunately there is a lot of plumbing in the way. Anyway, that's why I mentioned the other connectors, as well.
Glad to hear the TB is intact.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 05-29-2006 at 04:22 PM.
05-29-2006, 01:04 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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What does that mean? Was the car being cranked when viewing the timing belt or not??
Originally Posted by amschnellsten
. The first thing I did was check the timing belt. it is fine as far as I can see. The car sounds completely normal when I crank it over.
05-29-2006, 02:02 PM
#18
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You had a 951, so you are no dummy when it comes to timing belts. Sounds like you know what crashed valves sound like. You say you have juice TO the coils. So did you check the juice FROM the coils?
You also said you "tipped" the limiter. This could be an issue of it still being "tipped". Check it out.
You also said you "tipped" the limiter. This could be an issue of it still being "tipped". Check it out.
05-29-2006, 02:04 PM
#19
Team Owner
the crank position sensor connector is mounted on the left side rear of the engine next to the base of the cylinder head, as Bill said, it will be hard to get to , but your looking for a Black thick wire that also mounts to the top of the bellhousing you may also have anotherthick grey wire that is also mounted to the top of the bellhousing this is for dealer diagnostics and its connector is usually mounted on the left side of the intake manifold the gray wire is not what you need to test
05-29-2006, 05:36 PM
#20
Racer
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I will check the crank sensor tonight or tomorrow. I checked the timing belt when it was cranked. So the belt is moving and looks fine at this point. No stumble or flat spots when cranking and compression is good on all cylinders. I just have no spark at all.
05-30-2006, 01:59 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
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Cool. Have you disconnected the battery and reset the brains? I mention this because of Keiths post mentioning you could still be 'tipped'.
Originally Posted by amschnellsten
I will check the crank sensor tonight or tomorrow. I checked the timing belt when it was cranked. So the belt is moving and looks fine at this point. No stumble or flat spots when cranking and compression is good on all cylinders. I just have no spark at all.
05-30-2006, 09:33 PM
#26
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ah ha found the culprit. aparently the crank sensor plug fell apart