As part of my final preparations for the SITM trip, I will be replacing 3 CV boots, it would be very helpful if someone could email me the WSM pages for it or a similar write up of the procedure.

 

Ross,
Here are some helpful hints I found on John Pirtle's site under 'email keepers'.
John has a lot of good info there, check it out at: http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle

I can email you the pages from the wsm but it's a bit 'thin' I think...haven't done the job myself. Perhaps others know of additional sites with info.

Jim
Copied from John Pirtle's site:

Van: John Eifert <JEifert@AOL.COM>
Aan: 928 <928@rennlist.org>
Verzonden: donderdag 18 mei 2000 17:35
Onderwerp: [928] CV Boot Replacement


> I am going to replace the CV boots this weekend (Thanks for the boots Dave
> and Jeannie!). Being my first time working on CV joints, the only thing
> that has me aprehensive is craking the axle nuts and retorquing them.
> Anyone have some wisdom that they might want to impart on this process?
>
> Thanks
> JE
> 83S
>


From: Theo Jenniskens [jennit@wxs.nl]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 4:19 AM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: CV Boot Replacement

John,
i did three boots of my '88 928s4 yesterday. No big deal.
It turned out to be a 2 hour job for 3 boots. The fourth....
Well: I replaced one last march. All others were in fine
condition (then). Only two month's later i find two others
cracked and thorn completely. That's why i would advise
to replace both boots when taking an axle apart!
You don't need to unscrew the big wheel nut!
The procedure is as follows:

When working on the exhaust side... lower the exhaust a few
inches by unscrewing the 13mm bolts. Don't remove the exhaust.
Unscrew the allen bolts carefully.
Lower the axle on the transmission side.
I'ts possible to lower it so that you can access the cap on the first joint.
Open the clamb's that hold the boot. Use a knife to remove the boot.
Take off the Cap with a screw driver. (a new one is with the new boot)
Take off the 'C' clip that holds the joint. (a new one is with the new boot)
Take off the joint. Apply some force with a rubber hammer if needed.
Take off the wheel (dont touch the nut) to get some space to work
on the boot at the wheel side.
Attach the transmissionside boot on the joint part and repack with
the new grease that came with the boot. Clean out if required.
Move the new wheelside-boot in the correct direction on the axle.

An easy way to get the boots on the axle is to cut a piece of metal
from a tin and wrap it as a cone. Insert in the boot. Move the cone
with the boot over the axle, and then move it far enough. Hold the
metal cone, and move the boot back until it's in position. Remove
the metal cone. Easy... no more struggling.

Next attach the new clambs around the boot and secure tightly.
Then screw everything back together and : job done.

Success.
Theo
'88 928s4 Cherry Red
The Netherlands
http://home.wxs.nl/~Jennit/Porsche.htm




From: Kirk Smithson [kirksmithson@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 3:49 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: replacing CV boots

Hey Mark,

CV boot r/r is quite easy. Remove all the Allen bolts (be VERY careful
not to strip them) and the axle will come out. There's a clip on the end
of the axle to remove and the CV should slide off the axle. I did all 4 on
my '78 in half a day (taking my time too), which included taking apart and
repacking all 4 CV joints. Very messy, but not very difficult. If you
disassemble the joint, make sure it is "flexible" when you put it back
together. If it is put back together incorrectly, it will bind. You'll
see what I mean. Some listers recommend putting the joints back on in
different spots to even out the wear.

Kirk Smithson
'78 Silver 5 spd


From: HOOKDRIVR@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 8:53 AM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: CV Boots 89 Auto

In a message dated 4/21/01 8:17:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hurttman@yahoo.com writes:

<< I was told I have some minor tears in my CV boots
(rear) so I am planning on replacing them when I do
all the other things I am doing underneath. I am not
finding any real precise info in the archives. One
local shop told me he couldn't recall but he thought
you had to something extreme to do this. Any thoughts
on this would be great. >>

Jim,
I just completed this little job last week with lots of help and guidance
from Cap'n Earl Gillstrom. The replacement of the boots is pretty straight
forward and if you have 2 people, it goes pretty quickly. If you are under
the car, the other person can operate the parking brake to keep the axles
from rotating. The left rear is a little tricky due to lack of room and you
may have to drop the exhaust. I have an RMB, which gives you more room, but I
still removed the bolt on the bracket that holds the intermediate muffler. Be
careful not to put too much pressure on the exhaust as you don't want to
stress the headers and exhaust manifold bolts. Also, if you take the wheels
off, that also helps. Remove the 6 bolts on the inside where the axle
attaches to the differential. Then, if you have someone helping you, have
them tap the axle out of the wheel. After the assembly is out, clean it
thoroughly (Earl has a kerosene bath which made this very easy), then either
press or tap the inner CV joint off of the axle. We used a hammer. One came
off very easily, the other had to be persuaded with many hits. I cleaned all
of the old grease out of the joints (the replacement boots come with new
grease), but this was easy with the bath. BE CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE JOINTS
AS THE MAY COME APART! There have been tales of people chasing bearings
across the garage floor. Next, repack the joints with grease, put on new
boots and clamps and bolt them back on. We switched sides as some people have
recommended this extends the life of the joints from bearing race wear.
BTW, I also repaced my rear drop links with the steroid kits developed by
Louie Ott and my car corners much flatter in the turns now.
Good luck.

Ted Childs
928 S4 5-speed, RMB, Grandprixweiss
928 OC
PCA Riesentoter Region
"Who gives a rat's a** about any other vehicles you own!"



From: Theo Jenniskens [jenniskens@wxs.nl]
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 2:33 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: CV Boot

I replaced all 4 boots on my '88 928s4AT.
I never bothered to take the wheel nuts off. The job can
easily be done from the tranny side up to the wheel if
you have enough space to work under the car. Only
take the wheel off to reach/secure the upper boot.
Just release all bolts on the tranny side and drop the axle.
You need to lower the exhaust pipe as well, but can leave
it hanging. It is not too much in your way.

tip:
Make a small cone to slide the last boot on the axle.
You will have to slide it on in reverse direction, meaning
the smaller opening first. Thats the hard part !!
Save you half an hour hassle..... in the grease... make a cone.
Theo

 

Ross,

I tried to copy the section (42,21-27) of the WSM, but was unable to do so. However, I did this job not long ago so I could probably answer any questions you might have. I remember that for the most part it is a pretty straight forward job, except for two things

1. It is possible to assemble to CV joint incorrectly such that the shaft will not rotate freely. It will look OK on the bench but it will not rotate with the shaft and joint at an angle to each other.

2. Getting the boot (s) on can be extremely difficult. Here is a trick. Clamp the flange in a vise. Apply grease to about half of the lip of the flange. Start with the boot sliped over the lip where it has no grease. Reach up thru the hole in the flange and slide the rest of the boot over the lip, pushing with your fingers. This is where the grease is and it will slip right on. Rather than trying to pull the boot over the lip from the outside you are pushing it over from the inside.

Good luck.

 

You could use the info here and here, with the caveat that you will do one of the following with your car:

1) Leave the rear spindles in place and only drop the inner end of the halfshaft to get at all of the boots
2) Plan on removing the rear spindles and the famous 332ft/lb nuts, plus calipers, rotors, e-brake hardware, etc.

You don't have the six-bolt flange on the wheel end of the halfshaft. That joint is welded on your car.

There will be differences between your car and my writeups in certain minor areas(size of CV joints, boot P/N, etc) but not in the gross anatomy.

Couple tips you might want to consider:

-Replace all 4 boots. You'll have the same(huge) mess to clean up either way, but you only have to do it once if you do all 4. Otherwise, you're cleaning up the same mess again a year from now when the other boot lets go. You're already in there. Do it right.

-If you're in any kind of hurry to get this done, cut off all 4 boots and look for part numbers, take pics if you have to, but get the right boots. Someone may have been in there before you and changed just one flange to f with your head. Don't drive it without CV boots.

-When you put the inner joint back in note the position of the groove on the joint itself, and put it back the same way. Also mark their position on the shaft so you get it back on the same spline. Not getting it back on the same spline may (or may not) result in vabration, just play it safe. Same with all rotating parts from wheels to hubs, rotors, CVs etc., mark how they come off and put them back the same way. It can be argued that all parts are balanced close enough it shouldn't matter much, but IMHO it's good practice to approach things this way so you don't have to know where it may or may not matter, your habits prevent you from introducing new imbalances.