installing AEM wideband
#1
Three Wheelin'
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installing AEM wideband
i am going to be putting in a wideband on the 85. It really helps diagnosis of problems and i will be putting boost on it in the near future. My question is do you think i should add a bung and put this in, or should i replace the narrow band with this one and wire the incoming signal to the computer for accurate input?
what wire would i tap on the LH to 'give' it the signal? (id rather 'tap' in the brain signal than hack up my wires under the car
what wire would i tap on the LH to 'give' it the signal? (id rather 'tap' in the brain signal than hack up my wires under the car
#2
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I'd add a bung.
I'm pretty sure the two use two different voltages. The wide band is 0-5volts and the narrow band is 0-1volt.
I suspect you will have to adjust the signal so the brain can read it.
Some wide bands come with processors that change the signal down to 0-1volt. Some don't.
I'm pretty sure the two use two different voltages. The wide band is 0-5volts and the narrow band is 0-1volt.
I suspect you will have to adjust the signal so the brain can read it.
Some wide bands come with processors that change the signal down to 0-1volt. Some don't.
#4
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Originally Posted by zoltan944
i am going to be putting in a wideband on the 85. It really helps diagnosis of problems and i will be putting boost on it in the near future. My question is do you think i should add a bung and put this in, or should i replace the narrow band with this one and wire the incoming signal to the computer for accurate input?
what wire would i tap on the LH to 'give' it the signal? (id rather 'tap' in the brain signal than hack up my wires under the car
what wire would i tap on the LH to 'give' it the signal? (id rather 'tap' in the brain signal than hack up my wires under the car
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Use a separate bung for the O2 like I did with my AEM. This leaves the factory O2/closed-loop feeback & the shielded lines in place: otherwise you're looking for trouble.
Most xhaust places charge $5-10 to add a bung.
Most xhaust places charge $5-10 to add a bung.
#6
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jeff- not looking for gains. with how old are cars are, a wideband can really help in diagnosis. take all of the post on here for examples. thats all. when the boost does come, obviously its for 'tuning' and safety readings. the only thing about tying it in was overriding the possibly OLD sensor with a super better version
Mark: I think i am just gonna order my X-pipe with one in it, a couple of the places will do that when you order the x-pipe. or i can take it down to someone off the car and it be really easy
Mark: I think i am just gonna order my X-pipe with one in it, a couple of the places will do that when you order the x-pipe. or i can take it down to someone off the car and it be really easy
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#9
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For your 82 there should only be 1 wire on the O2 sensor, just connect the narrowband output on the AEM to that. For the 3 wire on the 85, black is signal. I'm assuming the AEM has a narrowband output since, like John said, most do.
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I just checked the wire diagrams. On the harness side, it's a shielded green wire. On the O2 side, it's should be black. Black on the harness side is power for the sensor heater, it would be bad to hook that to the AEM.
#12
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Originally Posted by MarkRobinson
Use a separate bung for the O2 like I did with my AEM. This leaves the factory O2/closed-loop feeback & the shielded lines in place: otherwise you're looking for trouble.
#13
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Instead of leaving the old O2 in, you can just replace your old with a brand new one. I woudl say that this is a must for a boosted 928. If you keep the old O2 the LH might be getting an inaccurate reading.
On my SC'd '85, I've replaced my 02 with a single wire unit and it works fine. Much more resposive than the old one. The heaters on the 3 wire O2 are not necesarry. The singel wire will come up to operating temp about 30 sec later than the heated one. Once it's hot it works exaclty like a 3 wire. Single wire O2s are around ~$10-$15.
On my SC'd '85, I've replaced my 02 with a single wire unit and it works fine. Much more resposive than the old one. The heaters on the 3 wire O2 are not necesarry. The singel wire will come up to operating temp about 30 sec later than the heated one. Once it's hot it works exaclty like a 3 wire. Single wire O2s are around ~$10-$15.
#14
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Instead of leaving the old O2 in, you can just replace your old with a brand new one. I woudl say that this is a must for a boosted 928. If you keep the old O2 the LH might be getting an inaccurate reading.
With that said, a fresh O2 sensor is a good idea in any car; idle and cruise air/fuel will be spot-on as a result.