Nitrous Oxide on 928s ??
#46
Supercharged
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As Jon points out make sure you have a provision for the blowdown tube. You could even use braided brake lines for the cool look.
As for teh purge valve - I don't think this is needed for street use or track (road course) use. These are mostly use at the drag strip to make sure you have nice cold nitrous as far up the line as possible. It will be cold enough within a tenth of a second or so which is a big deal at the drag strip, nut not as big a deal on the race track
As for teh purge valve - I don't think this is needed for street use or track (road course) use. These are mostly use at the drag strip to make sure you have nice cold nitrous as far up the line as possible. It will be cold enough within a tenth of a second or so which is a big deal at the drag strip, nut not as big a deal on the race track
#47
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
#1 - Doesn't matter IMO.
#2 - I would say yes. At 70*F you bottle will be pressurized at about 600-700 psi. The heat brings it up to 1100 psi which is what you need fot it to work correctly. That said, if you leave it in the hatch area on a sunny day, it'll easily get up to 2000 psi, which was a bit scary for me the first time!
Personally I think you should have it, because on a cool morning or evening of you loose pressure, you loose HP!
#2 - I would say yes. At 70*F you bottle will be pressurized at about 600-700 psi. The heat brings it up to 1100 psi which is what you need fot it to work correctly. That said, if you leave it in the hatch area on a sunny day, it'll easily get up to 2000 psi, which was a bit scary for me the first time!
Personally I think you should have it, because on a cool morning or evening of you loose pressure, you loose HP!
Jon
#48
Three Wheelin'
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Hi
So its a yes to bottle warmers....so wiring them in....do they need a relay to offset high amperage usage ?
Over pressure ??? So if i left my luggage cover off are you saying the bottle could blow the valve if bottle gets TOO HOT ???
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
So its a yes to bottle warmers....so wiring them in....do they need a relay to offset high amperage usage ?
Over pressure ??? So if i left my luggage cover off are you saying the bottle could blow the valve if bottle gets TOO HOT ???
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
#49
Supercharged
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There is a pressure switch on the warmer that monitors the pressure. When pressure gets up to 1100psi it turns it off automatically. The big issue with NOS is if you have the bottle closed and the heater on. Watch out! I was a bit paranoid on this point - and rightfully so. Perhaps there is a newer version that only comes on if the pressure is above 200-300 psi to avoid this issue?
#50
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It depends. as was said, generally, you want the bottle pressure to be near 1000psi. usually, in a 70f car, its near 800psi when full and lower below that. to get the best results, you need to have the bottle heater and its a pretty easy install. for one shot down a dragstrip, its probably not needed, but if you want the exact flow and mixture all the time, the bottle heater keeps things at 1000psi . as you use NOS, the bottle cools FAST, and it gets real cold. (so then the pressure goes down too!) so, the only thing you have to worry about,is that you NEVER turn off the main valve while the heater is on. if you forget to disarm the heater > (done this before) there is nothing to tell the heater to turn off, then you have KABOOM! and from some internet pictures, its not pretty. guys loose their cars, and their garages from the explosion. tie your heater to the ignition side of the power, make sure you have an arm and disarm for the heater alone and one for the main NOS switch. this way, you can have the NOS on all the time, but no bottle heater until you are in serious mode. also, if you then forget that you were in serious mode, leave your car, turn off the main valve on the NOS bottle, you dont have a serious problem. (in otherwords, making it fault proof) the bottle heater system is the only risky thing of the NOS modification. (as long as you dont exceed the power abilities of your engine as well, and 50 to 75hp is no problem for our engines. dont expect any life shortening by using NOS on our engines at that level.)
MK
MK
Originally Posted by BRETT AINLEY
Hi Mark,
Im GETTING some of the parts I need at the moment..is a bottle heater needed ?
I plan on a 11 lb bottle mounted in luggage area at first ,then another matching 11lb bottle either next to it or on other side ...
Two questions....
1, Bottles next to each other or separated (better for temperature ?)
2, As my car is usally warm....around 70 F will I need a bottle heater or two or not at all ?
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
Im GETTING some of the parts I need at the moment..is a bottle heater needed ?
I plan on a 11 lb bottle mounted in luggage area at first ,then another matching 11lb bottle either next to it or on other side ...
Two questions....
1, Bottles next to each other or separated (better for temperature ?)
2, As my car is usally warm....around 70 F will I need a bottle heater or two or not at all ?
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
#51
Rennlist Member
no, you wont blow with just heat from the car's interior.
the blow off valve is only for when it does blow due to over heat from the heater, that it blows down the tube. OFTEN, this doesnt happen, as the bottle blows at 3000psi to 4000psi. there is no way to protect yourself from forgeting to turn off the heater, thats why you need to wire it into the ignition,
(only if the bottle valve is closed do you really have a problem as the heat sensor should trip a relay as the pressure goes near 1200psi. (thats how they work) current tripping wouldnt work due to the resistance of the heater going up not down with temp. current flow doesnt change that much, but you have a chance here by using a very small battery!! (ha ha) I think the current draw was near 10amps, so in an hour with a 10amp hour battery, you might escape disaster!
the main fix to this is never close the bottle with out turning off the bottle heater, or tie the heater to the ignition just in case.
the blow off valve is only for when it does blow due to over heat from the heater, that it blows down the tube. OFTEN, this doesnt happen, as the bottle blows at 3000psi to 4000psi. there is no way to protect yourself from forgeting to turn off the heater, thats why you need to wire it into the ignition,
(only if the bottle valve is closed do you really have a problem as the heat sensor should trip a relay as the pressure goes near 1200psi. (thats how they work) current tripping wouldnt work due to the resistance of the heater going up not down with temp. current flow doesnt change that much, but you have a chance here by using a very small battery!! (ha ha) I think the current draw was near 10amps, so in an hour with a 10amp hour battery, you might escape disaster!
the main fix to this is never close the bottle with out turning off the bottle heater, or tie the heater to the ignition just in case.
Originally Posted by BRETT AINLEY
Hi
So its a yes to bottle warmers....so wiring them in....do they need a relay to offset high amperage usage ?
Over pressure ??? So if i left my luggage cover off are you saying the bottle could blow the valve if bottle gets TOO HOT ???
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
So its a yes to bottle warmers....so wiring them in....do they need a relay to offset high amperage usage ?
Over pressure ??? So if i left my luggage cover off are you saying the bottle could blow the valve if bottle gets TOO HOT ???
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES ,RMB ,PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH.K&N.
PCGB UK 928 FORUM MODERATOR
#52
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by mark kibort
no, you wont blow with just heat from the car's interior.
the blow off valve is only for when it does blow due to over heat from the heater, that it blows down the tube. OFTEN, this doesnt happen, as the bottle blows at 3000psi to 4000psi. there is no way to protect yourself from forgeting to turn off the heater, thats why you need to wire it into the ignition,
(only if the bottle valve is closed do you really have a problem as the heat sensor should trip a relay as the pressure goes near 1200psi. (thats how they work) current tripping wouldnt work due to the resistance of the heater going up not down with temp. current flow doesnt change that much, but you have a chance here by using a very small battery!! (ha ha) I think the current draw was near 10amps, so in an hour with a 10amp hour battery, you might escape disaster!
the main fix to this is never close the bottle with out turning off the bottle heater, or tie the heater to the ignition just in case.
the blow off valve is only for when it does blow due to over heat from the heater, that it blows down the tube. OFTEN, this doesnt happen, as the bottle blows at 3000psi to 4000psi. there is no way to protect yourself from forgeting to turn off the heater, thats why you need to wire it into the ignition,
(only if the bottle valve is closed do you really have a problem as the heat sensor should trip a relay as the pressure goes near 1200psi. (thats how they work) current tripping wouldnt work due to the resistance of the heater going up not down with temp. current flow doesnt change that much, but you have a chance here by using a very small battery!! (ha ha) I think the current draw was near 10amps, so in an hour with a 10amp hour battery, you might escape disaster!
the main fix to this is never close the bottle with out turning off the bottle heater, or tie the heater to the ignition just in case.
Jon
#53
Three Wheelin'
Here are some good bottle heater links...
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...del=76&dept=11
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idcategory=15
Or you could do something really slick and wire it into your rear derost/defog wiring. Then it'll just stay on as long as the switch at the front of the car is on.
Jon
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...del=76&dept=11
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idcategory=15
Or you could do something really slick and wire it into your rear derost/defog wiring. Then it'll just stay on as long as the switch at the front of the car is on.
Jon
#54
Road Warrior
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I thought the nos charge was regulated down to 100psi or so at the nozzle? but if it's too cold, it could screw up the AF and cause extra lean? iirc, FP was supposed to be regulated down to about 10/20psi also, no/yes? there are lots of controllers on the market that seem to handle a lot of safety stuff too, like a drop in fuel pressure, etc.... one switch controls all, etc
#55
Rennlist Member
No, the nossil pressure is 1000psi and fuel pressure is near 50-55psi.
no, you cant screw up the AF, due to the fact of two things. one, the NOS is injected after the MAF or AFM. two, the AF is controlled by the fuel pressure nossil size and the NOS nossil size , both under their nominal pressures.
yes, there are controllers that react to lower fuel pressure or lower NOS pressure. (basically, assuring proper mixtures as things change)
But, with a 50-100hp shot, there is really no need for these kind of fancy controllers, or the progressive controllers . those are for the 250HP shot systems.
mk
no, you cant screw up the AF, due to the fact of two things. one, the NOS is injected after the MAF or AFM. two, the AF is controlled by the fuel pressure nossil size and the NOS nossil size , both under their nominal pressures.
yes, there are controllers that react to lower fuel pressure or lower NOS pressure. (basically, assuring proper mixtures as things change)
But, with a 50-100hp shot, there is really no need for these kind of fancy controllers, or the progressive controllers . those are for the 250HP shot systems.
mk
Originally Posted by 928SS
I thought the nos charge was regulated down to 100psi or so at the nozzle? but if it's too cold, it could screw up the AF and cause extra lean? iirc, FP was supposed to be regulated down to about 10/20psi also, no/yes? there are lots of controllers on the market that seem to handle a lot of safety stuff too, like a drop in fuel pressure, etc.... one switch controls all, etc
#56
Rennlist Member
Yes, the should, but often they dont blow first, as luck would have it (or bad luck) the blow down tube is the path for the NOS to vent to should the pressures get too great. But, often times, as all the internet pics , show, the bottle blows first. (not really often, but it does happen.)
MK
MK
Originally Posted by Jon B.
Negative. The valve SHOULD have a burst panel in place that will give WAY before your bottle goes BOOM. Which is why you need to make sure your blowdown tube is there. Bottle explosions are NOT very common, and if you do everything safely, like moniter your temps and like Mark said make sure to turn the heater off if the bottle is closed. Most of the newer bottle heaters shut themselves off at a certain temp point. But it better safe than sorry. I wouldn't be worried about bottles blowing apart in your car.
Jon
Jon
#57
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by mark kibort
Yes, the should, but often they dont blow first, as luck would have it (or bad luck) the blow down tube is the path for the NOS to vent to should the pressures get too great. But, often times, as all the internet pics , show, the bottle blows first. (not really often, but it does happen.)
MK
MK
Jon
#59
Banned
#60
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by whitefox
Jon