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Metal Noise .....Then lost power to wheels

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Old 04-26-2006, 01:49 AM
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Walt Lorcheim
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Default Metal Noise .....Then lost power to wheels

Help!! Drove for about 15 minutes, stopped for gas, pulled onto street with moderate acceleration and then it happened! Metal on metal noise, drove about 200 yards to get to a parking lot. I lost all power to the wheels. The trans would not move in any gear. The noise got louder as I revved the engine. There was no fluid under or around the car. It sounded as if my exhaust had been punctured. Had the car towed to my house. I'm clueless as to what might be wrong. I live in North Alabama near Huntsville. I don't believe I have anyone nearby that can help. If anyone has any ideas on what it might be or a contact for me please let me know. The car was working great! Thanks, Walt
Old 04-26-2006, 01:56 AM
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Big Dave
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Pull the lower bell-housing cover...easy to check there if the torque tube has disconnected from the flywheel....or the flywheel snapped. Rare, but easy to check first.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:01 AM
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Walt Lorcheim
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Thanks Dave I'll give it a look tomorrow. I'm hoping it is not as bad as I think it is.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:02 AM
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Uhoh. Not again!
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/262975-drive-train-failure-it-s-the-torque-tube-photos-posted.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/264113-toque-tube-replacement-date-is-4-8-for-edco-s-91-s4-update-tt-removed-photos-added.html

It could be something else, but it might be expedient to jack up the rear of car, get under the torque converter, reach up through the opening in the rear TC cover and see if you can spin the TC by hand. If so, the answer is what is described in the above threads, or the variants Dave mentions. If the TC will not spin, then look at you axles to see if one has come off the differential case. It is also possible the output shaft to the pinion gear broke - not likely.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:15 AM
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WallyP

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1) Look at the rear axles (halfshafts) to see if one has come unbolted from the differential. If not:
2) Remove the cover from the bottom of the bellhousing. Carefully examine the driveshaft and the connections to see if the coupling or the shaft is broken. If all appears well here:
3) Pull the rubber plug from the rear of the torque tube and inspect the driveshaft inside to see if the coupling or the shaft are broken.

If you can't see any problem:
With the car supported safely, apply the parking brake, crank the engine, and listen to locate the source of the noise.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:19 AM
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jebdog
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It is most likely to be a broken driveshaft just like Bill Ball referred to above.The 91 came with the larger tappered end shaft and they tend to break.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:25 AM
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Walt Lorcheim
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Bill, Thanks for your advice also. I probably won't get to check it out until early evening tomorrow as my schedule is a bear tomorrow. I had read the threads you posted for me. It sounds like it might be the case. If so, where is the best place to get a torque tube and related parts at the best price? Luckily, I'm in the military and I have access to our auto craft shop which has all the tools, lifts, etc. However, I think I'm short on hands on expertise in this area. I know Wally is in Atlanta, but that is almost four hours away. Its a start and again I really appreciate your expertise and the other inputs I've read since becoming a member. Walt
Old 04-26-2006, 02:37 AM
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Walt Lorcheim
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Wally, Thanks for your thoughts. I was taking the car out for a spin tonight thinking about how much I was looking forward to attending sharks in the mountains in June. I'm now hoping I can this problem fixed in time. I'll let you know what I find out tomorrow night. Walt
Old 04-26-2006, 02:37 AM
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Hey Walt,

We just changed my snapped TT when it went I lost power to the rear wheels immediately. It was a big job, but with the right help something that can be done on jack stands. Wally and Bill's advice is the way to go, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you a drive shaft would be the easy fix.

Bill inspected mine and found the torque converter would spin freely when he pulled the rubber plug; then we pulled the front cover and saw the damage.

I purchased my parts from 928International $495 for the TT + an additional $150 for having a broken shaft as it was not a 100% usable core. We also changed mine to the early style with circlip and bushings an additional $30 or so. We changed the Torque converter bearings $60 for the 2 of them. I had a press fee from Devek to have them installed $100 or so.

Bill am I forgetting anything?

Keep us posted we have lots of photos, I’ll bet there is a support group in your area

Last edited by edco; 04-26-2006 at 03:41 AM.
Old 04-26-2006, 03:22 AM
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Bill Ball
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Matt's not forgetting anything about the parts, but you don't need to pull that plug to inspect the TC.

On the other (back) side of the TC is an open grated area through which you can see the converter. If you can spin it with your fingers, the connection to the engine is broken. It could be at either end of the TT shaft or it could be the flexplate or flywheel as Dave said, but it is most likely the TT shaft broken up front, as Matt's was. If the TC turns, pull the lower bellhousing cover off. That requires disconnecting the front of the exhaust pipes from the headers to get at the 2 rear bolts that hold the cover on. I mentioned the axle shaft as Wally did, and that is usually quite obvious if you glance under the rear of the car.

If it is the TT shaft, this is a job that can be done a couple of ways, as discussed in the threads linked previously. You should have another set of hands to help with the 60 lb. TT. It is a 1 day job if you have everything handy, so I can't see why you shouldn't make it to SITM. If it is the axle shaft, order some bolts and fasten it back to the diff.

Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-27-2006 at 03:28 AM.
Old 04-26-2006, 03:04 PM
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My guess would be the same as Wally's first one.
Old 04-26-2006, 03:22 PM
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Bill Ball
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Yes, me too. The other possibility was just a bit fresher in my mind. Either should be easy to diagnose, at least.
Old 04-26-2006, 04:44 PM
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bd0nalds0n
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I broke a CV joint once and it did exactly as above. This would be a much more desirable "break" than the drive shaft.
Old 04-26-2006, 07:51 PM
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Brian D,
Were the CV's making any noise before failure?
Or was it a 'Track' incident?

Both my CV boots were ripped an I drove for about 5 months with semi-dry CV's.
All fixed now.

Ernest (NYC)
Old 04-27-2006, 02:33 AM
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Walt Lorcheim
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Brian,
Everything was quiet and normal. It was not a track incident. The breakdown just happened. Unfortunately, I couldn't get to work on the car tonight as my work got in the way. I probably will have to wait for the weekend to come along before I can do some serious diagnosis. Everyone has been extremely helpful. Walt


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