TB-WP party a success although very tedious
04-27-2006, 03:42 PM
#46
Under the Lift
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Using the old pump as a drill guide is a poor, or should I say desperate, man's solution. It won't allow you to progressively drill unless you do something unusual like machine custom bushings that fit the water pump holes. Still, I did it, and it worked.
I used a drill bit that was almost as large as the hole in the water pump and put some tape around it to protect the core from gouging. The sides of drill bits aren't aggressive anyway. I used this "guide" just to get me started on-center, then removed the pump and continued with a small bit in the new center I had created. Since the starting bit was larger than the original bolt hole in the block, it removed a little excess material, creating a slight a countersink around the bolt hole. No problem at all as there was plenty of sealing surface area around this bolt and the removal was minimal.
So, unless the drill guide system is real sophisticated, like dr. bob's, I just use it as a starter to center the drilling activities. Yes, it would be good to assure perfectly perpendicular drilling. I just did careful checking of the small bits as they went in for squareness with the block. If you have room to use a long bit, you can t-sqaure them as you begin drilling. I even tried a small portable drill press type adapter for portable drills, but there was not enough room.
Try drilling insert holes for 16 studs that are over a foot long and have to be perfectly parallel so you can slide on a cylinder block and heads, as I did on my Honda CBX inline 6-cyl motorcycle. The engine stayed on the bike, so no opportunity to use a drill press. The trick I used was to leave most of the original studs installed and slip on the old head gasket, leaving it way up near the ends of the studs. Using an EXTRA LONG drill bit through the hedgasket holes resulted in perfectly aligned studs after the inserts were drilled. Moved around the head gasket, removing old studs, installing new ones until I was done. Anything else would have required removal and disassembly of the engine case - a royal pain and a crime for a motor that was perfectly good inside.
I used a drill bit that was almost as large as the hole in the water pump and put some tape around it to protect the core from gouging. The sides of drill bits aren't aggressive anyway. I used this "guide" just to get me started on-center, then removed the pump and continued with a small bit in the new center I had created. Since the starting bit was larger than the original bolt hole in the block, it removed a little excess material, creating a slight a countersink around the bolt hole. No problem at all as there was plenty of sealing surface area around this bolt and the removal was minimal.
So, unless the drill guide system is real sophisticated, like dr. bob's, I just use it as a starter to center the drilling activities. Yes, it would be good to assure perfectly perpendicular drilling. I just did careful checking of the small bits as they went in for squareness with the block. If you have room to use a long bit, you can t-sqaure them as you begin drilling. I even tried a small portable drill press type adapter for portable drills, but there was not enough room.
Try drilling insert holes for 16 studs that are over a foot long and have to be perfectly parallel so you can slide on a cylinder block and heads, as I did on my Honda CBX inline 6-cyl motorcycle. The engine stayed on the bike, so no opportunity to use a drill press. The trick I used was to leave most of the original studs installed and slip on the old head gasket, leaving it way up near the ends of the studs. Using an EXTRA LONG drill bit through the hedgasket holes resulted in perfectly aligned studs after the inserts were drilled. Moved around the head gasket, removing old studs, installing new ones until I was done. Anything else would have required removal and disassembly of the engine case - a royal pain and a crime for a motor that was perfectly good inside.
04-27-2006, 04:53 PM
#47
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Seems that using the original pump would be awkward...at least for me. Not sure if a complex kit with several different sized bushings is necessary, but that's just me. I guess there would be others out there attempting this, that would possibly butcher the block, so maybe a kit that is fool proof is justifiable.
I like the thick aluminum plate idea, but that could get expensive. My thoughts for stamped sheet metal and tacked on small bushings would be cheap and a one shot deal to just pilot the hole and thats it. Free hand the hole(s) after with a 90 degree drill using the correct sized bi, then tap. The larger bit tends to follow the pilot hole, so staying centered isn't difficult.
I think the biggest issue is to NOT use those foolish easy outs. Everytime I have used one, I have just wanted to kick myself. A dremel tool with the correct bit will flatten the top of the stud enough or just make a good enough center point for the pilot bit. Once you are centered, it all seems to go pretty easy from there.
Just my .02
I like the thick aluminum plate idea, but that could get expensive. My thoughts for stamped sheet metal and tacked on small bushings would be cheap and a one shot deal to just pilot the hole and thats it. Free hand the hole(s) after with a 90 degree drill using the correct sized bi, then tap. The larger bit tends to follow the pilot hole, so staying centered isn't difficult.
I think the biggest issue is to NOT use those foolish easy outs. Everytime I have used one, I have just wanted to kick myself. A dremel tool with the correct bit will flatten the top of the stud enough or just make a good enough center point for the pilot bit. Once you are centered, it all seems to go pretty easy from there.
Just my .02
