Simpler Accusump-to-engine Connection
#1
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Simpler Accusump-to-engine Connection
Back in the day, we used to enjoy the Canton Racing Products oil filter assembly - it had 4 bolts in the 4 corners that you removed to change the filter.
To plumb in an Accusump - you just drilled and tapped the top plate and you were all set.
But then Canton changed to their o-ringed spin-on version (picture below) and if you drill and tap the lid for your Accusump connection - changing the oil filter is a PITA because you have to disconnect your Accusump line each time.
I have discovered that a -10 AN T-fitting fits tight in the factory lines to the oil cooler - a couple of Oetiker clamps and you are all set - a nice Accusmp connection plus I can use OEM spin-on oil filters again.
To plumb in an Accusump - you just drilled and tapped the top plate and you were all set.
But then Canton changed to their o-ringed spin-on version (picture below) and if you drill and tap the lid for your Accusump connection - changing the oil filter is a PITA because you have to disconnect your Accusump line each time.
I have discovered that a -10 AN T-fitting fits tight in the factory lines to the oil cooler - a couple of Oetiker clamps and you are all set - a nice Accusmp connection plus I can use OEM spin-on oil filters again.
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Carl,
Nice work..
I plan on replacing the Oil Lines with 12 AN lines,and have the AN-Metric adapters for the block fittings. I will then plumb the ACCUS into the AN lines..
Same concept, just different lines.... Is that 3qt enough on the track..? Or should it be a 5Qt..?
Nice work..
I plan on replacing the Oil Lines with 12 AN lines,and have the AN-Metric adapters for the block fittings. I will then plumb the ACCUS into the AN lines..
Same concept, just different lines.... Is that 3qt enough on the track..? Or should it be a 5Qt..?
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Back in the day, we used to enjoy the Canton Racing Products oil filter assembly - it had 4 bolts in the 4 corners that you removed to change the filter.To plumb in an Accusump - you just drilled and tapped the top plate and you were all set.
Are you sure the oil will only travel in one direction using the oil cooler line? I still believe a direct feed right into the filter is the best approach. Shortest path to the bearings.
Didn't you post a different setup on your car a few weeks ago?
FYI- Most race organizations don't allow non-factory push-on crimped fittings on pressure lines.
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I need to get one of them fancy radiators with an oil cooler. Are they any wider than the original in my 79 or 81? Or the exact same size with coolers built in? Seams like an easier way to add an oil cooler vs. running lines to the front of the radiator on my track car.
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Our all alloy radiator is basically the same outside dimensions as the Behr but improved cooling capacity. Plus NEW and any new radiator is more efficient than a 10-15 year old with corroded precipitated gunked up core passages. It would however be more efficient and less expensive to run an aftermarket air style oil cooler in a race car (say in the fender) especially if accusumped as well. Using a remote oil filter and adding a one way check valve to the feed line (filtered oil) to the engine plumb the accusump into the line BETWEEN the check valve and the block near the block. This way only clean filtered oil enters the accusump and during times of low pressure it forces all to the bearings .The electric valve features a gradual refill after discharge which is beneficial as well since it is not competing with the engine for oil and pressure at a time when the engine needs it most.
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What is the capacity of the extra two coolers in your radiator Jim?
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The two liquid to liquid heat exchangers factory or aftermarket are not all that large the hoses probably hold more fluid than they do but to use them you need metric fittings like the factory oil cooler trans cooler lines have.
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Cool, thanks Jim - I'm planning out an air/air IC and oil cooler for my track car. Just looking at all options. A radiator mounted oil cooler does simplify things a bit.
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I am thinking mounting in the fender no headlight track car makes some sense to not preheat the air to the radiator. Besides 911s have used that location for years ! just needs to be shielded from tire debris
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I'm still dancing with the headlight / no headlight issue. I can get away with driving an open exhaust 928 in Wisconsin.
Once I buy a trailer, I'm sure the headlights will go.
Once I buy a trailer, I'm sure the headlights will go.
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I saw those, very nice (ran with him this past weekend at RA). If I go no headlights, I'll go the full monty though.
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Didn't you post a different setup on your car a few weeks ago?