mpesik

I've got to take out the Fuse panel. I definately have a wiring problem.
Today I was left stranded for a bit; Christ sakes-again! I used a wooden stirring stick to add tension to the relay plug as it is somewhat loose. Ta-da. started.

Can anyone offer some btdt advice on what to watch out for besides disconnecting the battery.
thanks

sparky928

I don't really know about the 88's but the 82 i had wasn't to hard to get the fuse panel out of. Biggest thing to watch for is all the body harness plugs that plug in the bottom of the panel should have an identifying letter on it that corresponds to the letter on the socket it comes out of. If not, mark both with a marker or apaint pen. The other thing I remember is the panel is hardwired point to point from the back with wires that have what look like a female stak-on connector.They are held into the panel with a small spring like tab on the connector.By slipping a very small screw driver in the front of the panel next to the connector you can release it and pull it out the back,staighten and tighten it up and then push it back in. Take your time cause the wiring on the back is a mess. Hope this helps a little . Good luck.
Sparky

Alan

Pretty easy to do...

1. Remove the battery ground strap and ensure there is absolutely no chance it can become reconnected. Critical for your safety (real damage & fire potential here!)

2. Remove mats/carpet & panel covers in passenger foot-well to expose the CE panel.

3. Consider removing the passenger seat for easier access – optional

4. Pull out towards you the red locking tab at the middle bottom of the CE Panel – should move about 3/8” forward.

5. Remove all CE plugs – be careful to avoid damage to the top plastic retaining pins. Note that there are 2 ears with holes offset on the plug, use a hooked puller tool or make a temp version with a large paperclip. Alternate pulling top/bottom - start at top.

6. Hinge up (or unclip & remove) the clear plastic cover over the battery connections on top of the CE panel.

7. Unscrew the nuts holding the 2 red large gauge Battery/Alternator wires with ring terminals to the studs on top of the CE panel.

8. Unscrew & remove the 2 main mounting screws at the top of the panel.

9. Carefully snip any cable ties from the loop on the left side of the CE panel securing the main wiring looms (if still there). Relocate the looms to create space to the left and above the panel.

10. Tilt the top of the panel forward about 1” and lift the panel to remove the 2 bottom locating pins out of their retaining (rubber grommet filled) sockets welded to the floor, you’ll have to move looms around to enable the required panel movement.

11. Move the left end of the panel forward & left to enable the right side of the panel to clear the LH & EZK brains - then pivot the panel forward into the foot-well.

12 Unbolt the brown ground wire connections from the CE panel (~3) with ring terminals from the ground point above the CE panel – note there are several other grounds that also attach to this same point. There is also another ground point next to the one you want. Its free!

13. Put all the screws/nuts/washers/fasteners somewhere safe…

Note it is not possible to put the correct colored matched plugs into the wrong sockets (on 85+ panels)

Alan

Larry928GTS

When it's out, be sure and check the gray wire on the back of the fuse box. That one's extremely important.

Alan

For those of you who don't get it it looks something like this...

Alan

MGW-Fla

Everyone has to have the link to Sharskin's awesome site of how to R&R your fuse panel in their favorite 928 repair sites: Thanks for the incredible work Dave!
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...04-Bzzzzzt.htm
.......& one day I'm gonna try it myself!

mpesik

Jeebus!- Reminds me of a Pharoh wrapped in linen. About the same importance to 928 worshippers.
Thanks for doing the one extra. That's nice of you.

mpesik

BTW- has Porsche not heard of I.C's? Is it all mess/mass because of the current?
That's damn ugly and Junior High electrical.

Alan

Mike,
The only thing there is relay sockets, fuses & plug sockets (all the smarts are in the relays) and yes there is quite a bit of current through some of these wires - too much and too many crossing connectors to contemplate a printed circuit board. Despite how it looks (ugly I agree) - its actually quite a good solution me thinks.... It is substantially improved over the earlier panel and is quite smart in the modularity, coding, labelling, standard interchangable parts and relatively easy expansion & modification.

Alan

FlyingDog

Alan is right. The 85+ panel is a much better design than the 78-84 panels. That is why I'm searching for the fuse blocks out of 85+ panels to upgrade my 84.

John Struthers

You are in luck!
It's the gray wire!

SharkSkin

Mike, just take it slow and be patient. Once you get it out carefully inspect for melted insulation. You may have to shove some wires around to get that socket replaced, be careful not to strain them. It's better to disconnect wires that are in the way than to move them aside more forcefully. Also, look closely at the back side of where the terminal snaps into the relay socket. IIRC there are two plastic locking tabs holding each terminal in place, in addition to the usual metal tab. So that's three tabs that have to be held out of the way to get each connector out. I encountered that on an 86.5, I assume yours is the same. I used heavy-duty tweezers on the plastic tabs.

It's a better design from some perspectives. All good points about fuses and connectors, though I think the later relay sockets are inferior. When an old style relay socket gets old and brittle and snaps under pressure, it snaps in such a way that you can still use the socket; it then wants to fall out the front, but you can still get a relay pushed onto it easily or grip/pry on the connector to get the relay out. On the later cars, they are a more fragile two-piece design which, when it lets go, allows the socket to push inward on the panel when you try to insert a relay, and you can end up in trouble trying to get that relay hooked up. When you go to replace the socket, it has to go out the back through the spaghetti. On the old style, it comes out the front after releasing all the metal tabs -- again from the front.

Also, with the earlier panel, you can just remove the top two bolts and swing it forward; the power wires are routed underneath. Much more servicable IMHO.

Still, I do want a later car ultimately... I'll live with it. I'm not trying to rag on the design, just being realistic having dug deep into both style panels....

mpesik

interesting stuff. no?

Hello Dave,
The relay socket has let go and has fallen back. Probably due to my great strength.

thanks for the education everyone.

jarroyo

Can someone please explain to me why every friggin wire back there is grey? WTF were they thinking? It's almost as if they ran out of every color but grey and were in a rush to get the job done so they said "f@#$ it " nothing will go wrong back here. Out of sight out of mind I guess.

Mark

My wrench told me an interesting story about the CE.

Years ago, when he was going to P-car school, one of the courses he took was on the 928 electrics. The final exam: They were given a a bucket full of: empty ce, a go-zillion gray wires, a bunch of relays and fuses, and a wiring diagram. They had to assemble the CE! (He passed!).