Thanks Guys,
Glen it cools down a little at speed. It gets hotter going up hills and cooler going down.

Frank Barnhill
79 Euro

 

Hayden SUperCool...P/N 3700. I got mine at PepBoys. IIRC around $75 EACH.

 

Ok Mark, Now I will attempt anything on the car in a mechanical way, I am pretty slow when it comes to electronics. How would these be wired? Would the one doing the pushing be wired into the current fan's harness? Would the second fan be wired to run continously? I am sorry to be such a pest but I like this idea.

Thanks again,
Frank Barnhill
79 Euro

 

Frank,

I also have a 79 Euro. Mine seems to always sit right on the upper white line of the temp guage when I am in traffic. It moves back down towards the middle when I am moving on the highway. I replaced my original aux. fan with a Hayden Rapidcool unit and I put a 75 degree fan switch and thermostat in. This spring, I'm planning to flush the radiator, clean out all of the debris from the radiator fins and probably put a new fan clutch in.

I just ordered a touchless laser thermometer from Harbor Freight so I can get an accurate picture of the temps at the thermostat housing and the radiator.

let me know how it works out...

 

Hey Brian,

Today while I was driving the car it got up to that third white mark. I was wondering if it was telling me the truth. How much was the thermometer and how will you use it?
Please let me know the results. I have several ***** and switches on my car that are not in the manual. Could i ask you if you have the same ones? One is right between the hand brake and the speaker fader switch. It looks like a light of some sort. I haven't been able to figure it out. The other is a toggle switch in the storage compartment between the fuse panel and glove box. It is purple and I have not been able to find it's purpose. Also, do you have a trip milage reset switch. Mine was replaced with a **** to turn on the red light on the back.

Thanks,
Frank B.

 

Frank, the **** next to the handbrake is the headlight adjuster, came standard on the euro cars and most were disconnected when federalized for the U.S. The red light at the rear is also a euro feature, a rear fog light.

When chasing your heat problem, start with the easy and cheap fixes first.

Rich

 

I haven't gotten the thermometer yet, but it was $39.00 from Harbor Freight. You just point and shoot and it tells you the temp. I'm going to check the temps at the thermostat housing, the hoses and the radiator to see how hot things are getting. You can used it to check tire temps if you ever autocross or go to the track, also.

Like Rich said, the **** on the floor is for the headlight adjusters. Mine no longer works, but I would love to try to get them going again. It is apparently some sort of hydraulic setup, but nobody seems to know for sure. I read somewhere that there are tubes connected to that **** that need to be filled with some sort of oil.

Not sure about the purple switch...

I do have an odometer reset button under the pod, but pressing it killed my odometer gear so now I have to pull the pod to change it. NEVER PUSH THE BUTTON WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING!!! (unless you want the adventure of pulling the pod and the spedometer apart.

I have a switch on my pod for the rear fog light. Its on the left side right below the headlight and forward for light switches. When they federalized the car, they cut the wire to the rear light socket, so I have to splice it back together one of these days when I have time to kill.

I'll keep you posted on my temp readings when the thermometer gets here...

 

Just remember, an IR thermometer will not necessarily indicate the true temp of the coolant. They are great for finding relative temp differences, but if you really want to know the coolant temp insert a thermocouple directly into the coolant, like at the top hose.

 

Dave,

It should give me a rough estimate, though, right? I just want to get an idea of how accurate my guage is and if I have any cold spots in the radiator which might indicate a blockage. I have never overheated, but the guage sitting up near the top all summer is scary...

Brian

 

The IR thermometer has a scan mode that will give you a good indication of teh temperature gradient across the radiator, and help pinpoint any hot ( or cold) spots. When the engine is at operating temp, the thermostat opens - on our engines it moves inwards towards the block to allow water from the radiator to flow back into the block - hot water flows in at the top, out of the bottom of the radiator, so you would expect to see a temp gradient that reduces as you scan the IR down the radiator. No gradient, suspect stuck thermostat, pump, clogged radiator, for starters...
This technique helped me confirm bad fan clutch on my 81....

Hope this helps

Neil

 

Brian, it will probably be pretty accurate when looking for differences along similar surfaces, for example along the radiator core or along a hose. But as far as measuring the actual temp of the coolant, accuracy will vary and you can't rely on the number being correct, for example when checking the fan switch operation.

Expect it to be off several degrees. Mine usually underestimates the temp by 4-8 degrees when reading on bare aluminum, and by 3-4 degrees on rubber... and it's not a bargain unit. I've found this out by putting a thermocouple in the coolant stream, then comparing that reading with what I get on the gun. It has to do with the emissivity of the surface, surface cooling from airflow, etc.

 

Thanks, Guys. Checking things is going to have to wait...Harbor Freight has the thermometer on back order. They don't expect to ship until April 14th at the earliest. Oh well, maybe I'll do the oil change and the sway bar/links while I'm waiting...

 

Hi Guys,
I just wanted to post a reply to thank you all for your help and to let you know that it turned out to be the thermostat. I ordered raditor cap, thermostat and new o-ring from 928 Specialist. Cost $48.00 including shipping. Took 15 minutes and it even runs a little cool now.

Brian, Have you tried the thermostat? The one that came out looked ok but was obviously failing.
Good luck with your problem.

Thanks,
Frank Barnhill
79 Euro

 

Guys,
Now that i have solved the heating problem, it would be great to fix the cooling fan running all the time. I read a post about this on a later car but dind't seem to fit the 79. Can someone point me in a direction of what to look for? It starts to run the minute you turn on the switch and stays on until the engine shuts down.

Thanks again,
Frank Barnhill
79 Euro

 

Frank,

What thermostat did you put in? I have a 75 degree one in my car...