Engine Harness
#1
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Engine Harness
Hey.
I have another question for the almighty Rennlist
One of the last things I need to do on my engine is to put the harness on. The engine is going to be CIS, 1979. But I have one L-Jet harness in pretty good condition, and have a CIS harness in HORRIBLE condition(when I tried to bend it, I was thankful I was wearing glasses, cause the chip hit them pretty hard).
I know Carl sells new ones but price is out of range for me.
So, the question is, would it be allright if I would "disect" both harnesses, use CIS as a template, and use the isolation from the L-Jet, go buy wires in PepBoys and just make a "new" harness? On L-Jet harness I have there are nor broken connectors or anything, so that shouldn't be a problem. What I am worried about is if I will connect them without soldering(which I am not fond of), with the tubes which you squeeze, and use US wires of same size, will all the resistance and voltage values be ok with WUR, Cold start valve, etc?
It wouldn't be cool to put the engine in and have problems with the car later becouse of faulty harness . It is probably one of DWYAT things...
Thanks a lot,
Klim
I have another question for the almighty Rennlist
One of the last things I need to do on my engine is to put the harness on. The engine is going to be CIS, 1979. But I have one L-Jet harness in pretty good condition, and have a CIS harness in HORRIBLE condition(when I tried to bend it, I was thankful I was wearing glasses, cause the chip hit them pretty hard).
I know Carl sells new ones but price is out of range for me.
So, the question is, would it be allright if I would "disect" both harnesses, use CIS as a template, and use the isolation from the L-Jet, go buy wires in PepBoys and just make a "new" harness? On L-Jet harness I have there are nor broken connectors or anything, so that shouldn't be a problem. What I am worried about is if I will connect them without soldering(which I am not fond of), with the tubes which you squeeze, and use US wires of same size, will all the resistance and voltage values be ok with WUR, Cold start valve, etc?
It wouldn't be cool to put the engine in and have problems with the car later becouse of faulty harness . It is probably one of DWYAT things...
Thanks a lot,
Klim
#3
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You can buy the connectors and metric wires at www.eagleday.com I bought a new 14 pin connector with comes with the pins, new connectors for WUR, CSV, etc and wires and made my own. Only cost me around $150. If you have the wiring diagrams it lists the wire diameter on all the wires. I'm pretty sure Carl uses oversize wires in his harnesses without any problems.
Here is the 14-pin... https://www.928gt.com/pc-192-4-harne...-pin-male.aspx
Here is the 14-pin... https://www.928gt.com/pc-192-4-harne...-pin-male.aspx
#6
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Thanks a lot for the answers. Where on the wiring diagrams is there the diameter of the wires?
What is "solder heat shrink"?
Thanks a lot,
Klim
P.S. It is reall PITA to get the harness out...that's why I don't want to do it when the engine is in the car...
What is "solder heat shrink"?
Thanks a lot,
Klim
P.S. It is reall PITA to get the harness out...that's why I don't want to do it when the engine is in the car...
#7
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"solder heat shrink" if I understand it correctly means that the connections should be soldered and then covered in a protective wrap that shrinks when heated, forming a nice, tight, contamination resistant seal. The heat shrink wrap just looks like a flexible, thin rubber tube that you slide over the connection and heat up. It shrinks down and grips the soldered connection.
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#9
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The cross section is written in mm². For example the wire on the right has a cross section of .5mm². Us silly Europeans use commas instead of periods in weird places. The wire on the left has a cross section of 4.0mm². You can use the conversion chart I attached or just go to http://www.eagleday.com/neauwi.html and order the wires according to their size. I looked long and hard for the metric sizes, BTW. G'Luck!
#10
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Cool, thanks.
I ordered the connectors allready. Ill try to do a write up on exactly what people need to buy to do it, cause I just spent like 2 hours taking the old one apart...not fun
Thanks,
Klim
I ordered the connectors allready. Ill try to do a write up on exactly what people need to buy to do it, cause I just spent like 2 hours taking the old one apart...not fun
Thanks,
Klim
#11
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Check with Carl Fausett(928Motorsports.com). He can probably tell you the differences between the two harnesses. IIRC there is an engine harness that is nearly the same for all MY 928s and then a separate injection harness. I could be wrong though, be sure to check with Carl.
#12
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Mulik..."I just spent like 2 hours taking the old one apart...not fun" all of which proves that in many ways time and money interchange. Money represents an accumulation of time, effort . Want more time to play golf simply pay someone to mow your lawn. Why is gold expensive ? it takes a LOT of time to find mine process. So if you have more time than money you rebuild your own harness. So a bit more effort and you should have this problem resolved as well. Good job .
#13
Originally Posted by mulik51
Hey.
I have another question for the almighty Rennlist
One of the last things I need to do on my engine is to put the harness on. The engine is going to be CIS, 1979. But I have one L-Jet harness in pretty good condition, and have a CIS harness in HORRIBLE condition(when I tried to bend it, I was thankful I was wearing glasses, cause the chip hit them pretty hard).
I know Carl sells new ones but price is out of range for me.
So, the question is, would it be allright if I would "disect" both harnesses, use CIS as a template, and use the isolation from the L-Jet, go buy wires in PepBoys and just make a "new" harness? On L-Jet harness I have there are nor broken connectors or anything, so that shouldn't be a problem. What I am worried about is if I will connect them without soldering(which I am not fond of), with the tubes which you squeeze, and use US wires of same size, will all the resistance and voltage values be ok with WUR, Cold start valve, etc?
It wouldn't be cool to put the engine in and have problems with the car later becouse of faulty harness . It is probably one of DWYAT things...
Thanks a lot,
Klim
I have another question for the almighty Rennlist
One of the last things I need to do on my engine is to put the harness on. The engine is going to be CIS, 1979. But I have one L-Jet harness in pretty good condition, and have a CIS harness in HORRIBLE condition(when I tried to bend it, I was thankful I was wearing glasses, cause the chip hit them pretty hard).
I know Carl sells new ones but price is out of range for me.
So, the question is, would it be allright if I would "disect" both harnesses, use CIS as a template, and use the isolation from the L-Jet, go buy wires in PepBoys and just make a "new" harness? On L-Jet harness I have there are nor broken connectors or anything, so that shouldn't be a problem. What I am worried about is if I will connect them without soldering(which I am not fond of), with the tubes which you squeeze, and use US wires of same size, will all the resistance and voltage values be ok with WUR, Cold start valve, etc?
It wouldn't be cool to put the engine in and have problems with the car later becouse of faulty harness . It is probably one of DWYAT things...
Thanks a lot,
Klim
I think that by the time you pull the existing harnesses apart, get the correct wire and fittings, buy a heat shrink tubing blower, and then add your time, you will come out at least what a new one will cost from Carl. OTH, if you are going to do it yourself, take a look at Carl's web site and duplicate the "peg board" which he uses to lay out the wires. You can probably use a piece of 3/4 plywood and a bunch of 6d nails.
Let us know how it comes out!
#15
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One thing to note is when you are soldering the wires to the AMP connectors have sure they are soldered on good and crimped tight. I did two connectors where I soldered them up and then pushed the connector on to male end and lightly tugged on the wires and they came loose! Just a tip.