checkmate1996

Mulik,

Darn, I wish I saw this thread earlier...I had a good condition harness I could have sold you at reasonable cost...

Steve J.

I was hoping Carl would offer a kit.

karl ruiter

Do I understand that you have a good L jet harness, but your CIS harness is trashed? I have not traced it in detail but I think you will find them to be about 80% the same. As I recall the connections are: starter, alternator, oil level, oil pressure and (on the CIS car) 3 injection connections. I would guess that starter, alternator, oil level, oil pressure connections would be the same and on the L jet car the injection stuff would be handled through the L jet specific harness, although it too may be much the same.

littleball_s4

Building harnesses is extremely simple and funny as long as:

1. Someone teached you to do so. There are a lot things that take many many hours to guess and 2 seconds to learn. We could make a sort of online course here if people is really interested. (I read about Bill Ball project also).

2. You have all neccesary equipment and tools: (most can be found at any of the big electronic components shops which names aren't secret but I think I cannot post here)

Wires of all necessary sizes and several colors
Connectors and pins in excess
Tools to crimp those wires in the pins
Depending on the connectors, tools to get the pins in and out
Boots (heat-shrinking tube thing that get hard and glued when it cools down)
Dr-25 or similar heat-shink. Vinil if you need it fuel resistant
Diagrams
Multimeter
Rudimentary electricity training

And also the strongly recommended equipment:

Labeler
Transparent heat-shrink for the labels
wire stripper
Hot air gun
Your favorite "soldering" method (beta seals, solder sleeve, standard soldering...)

I'm clumsy but I make quite decent harnesses after a little bit of training. But do not even try unless you upgrade your garage/workshop a little bit with those items.

Let me know if any of you is interested in some advice.

mulik51

Thanks for all the answers!
I allready got the Bosch Connectors!
If I lay down the L-Jet harness and CIS harness next to each other, there are some differences. At least one of the top of my head is WUR. And funny thing is when I took the harness apart, the wires go through the actuall plastic heat protective covering, so, to add a wire to the harness could be as hard as to make a new one I think.

I do have all the tools littleball_s4 listed. It is quite convinient to lay the harness on the ground pull it on both ends and put something heavy on the ends. I allready got a rough list of the wires.

I am still contemplating on the American or Euro wires. Not becouse I am cheap, but becouse it is a lot less hassle with American stuff in this country(no wonder why). So, I could order wires of the internet, but what if I ran out. Ill need to wait a week to get a new one. What if when the wires will be on allready, I will want to change something, I will need to order the Euro wires again. And the difference in the diameter is not drastic I think...Any tips on which to do?
Thanks a lot, write up will be coming when I finish it,

Klim
P.S. Ok, now I feel a strong need to become a member, cause I have accumulated enough info to do some writeups, and I think I am not allowed to post pics if I am not member...
P.S.S. Jim Bailey, I feel strong Marxist oulook at the work and value of work

GlenL

There's no harm in using a bigger wire than in there originally. Getting the right colors and stripes would be nice, but not likely.

If this was on my plate, I'd use the L-jet harness as is to connect the starter, oil pressure, water temp and such and then make a separate harness for the K-jet system. Gotta do some work at the 14-pin connector but only we'd know it wasn't stock.

mulik51

Thanks, I will get the American wires then.
Why would you devide the harnesses? Becouse one is more likely to mulfunction then other?

Thanks,

Klim

GlenL

I'd divide the harness so I could leave the main one alone.

The K-jet stuff is pretty simple. With the cold start injector wired up, the engine will start and run without the WUR or bypass valve connected.