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Help Needed: Got wheels that don't fit!

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Old 03-25-2006, 03:02 AM
  #16  
chaadster
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Okay, so I got homek with the wheels and took a look at the situation.

I decided that the fit was very close, so I decided to try tightening the lug nuts to draw the wheel all the way down. I worked my way around each nut, turning just till snug, and repeated this until the wheel was seated. It was easy (i.e. didn't require much force).

However, I'm now left wondering how the hell I'm going to get them off again?

Did I screw up royal, here, or is there still some way to save the day?
Old 03-25-2006, 05:03 AM
  #17  
Bill Ball
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Originally Posted by 928ntslow
Bill, Wheel lock and valve stem equals out of balance! They should be opposite! Check factory specs
So, RTFM is it? OK.
Old 03-25-2006, 06:11 AM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Okay, so I got homek with the wheels and took a look at the situation.

I decided that the fit was very close, so I decided to try tightening the lug nuts to draw the wheel all the way down. I worked my way around each nut, turning just till snug, and repeated this until the wheel was seated. It was easy (i.e. didn't require much force).

However, I'm now left wondering how the hell I'm going to get them off again?

Did I screw up royal, here, or is there still some way to save the day?
Tight fit, eh? At least, they fit - which is good news. Based on this story,
I would loosen the nuts ASAP ( not remove entirely), and attempt to 'wiggle' the wheel(s) free. It would be far better to do this before it 'welds' itself in place. A 3 ft handle sledge hammer is found in most tire shops - do I have to draw the rest of the picture?
As some force may be required, only jack up one wheel at a time, leave at least two of the nuts on loosely, and no fingers underneath - if it does not release by hand, the outside of the tire can be struck with considerable force to achieve this. I suppose the inner wheel rim can be hammered if protected by a wood block, but save that as a last resort.
Once they are off, the interference area will be obvious: if it is the hubcentric lips, clean them up - and a small amount of grease can be used on the lip: do not allow any lube on the flat mounting faces of either the wheel or the hub. ( it is the friction between these two faces that keep your wheels on, for the studs act in tension - not in shear).

Pics needed!
Old 03-25-2006, 02:26 PM
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AO
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Got with Chaad ('88 White), Dennis S. ('82 Wissach), and Jim S. ('87 Cassriot). We're all trying to get used to Chaad's new wheels. They look pretty good - they grow on you like fungus. The powder coat looks 1st rate. Chaad forgot his camera, so I'm posting these for him.

Edit: Wow! Those last 2 pics look like they're B&W, but I swear they're color. Really!
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Old 03-25-2006, 02:54 PM
  #20  
chaadster
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Garth-- thanks for posting the tips and giving me hope! As soon as I knock out this post, I'll head out to the garage and try to get 'em off.

Andrew-- thank you for the pics, though your high-quality imagery really shows how filthy my calipers are! Before anyone passes judgement, though, keep in mind that they've been hidden behind dish rims for 18 years...

Here's a pic I snapped after I did a quick wash to get off the road grime from this morning's jaunt, made messy courtesy of freakish, Spring snow flurries:
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Old 03-25-2006, 03:24 PM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
.... We're all trying to get used to Chaad's new wheels. They look pretty good - they grow on you like fungus. ....
Hey Chaad, They look great; however, you need to cultivate a little more of that fungus to cover the center cap background for a match ... or maybe it will grow over if you keep it in the dark - and feed it ______!



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