Electronics quiz
03-23-2006, 04:57 PM
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Electronics quiz
Greetings all:
I recently pulled the defective 2A relay from the AC control unit in my 1990 928.
I have attached a photo of the old relay that has 6 pins and a photo of the new 5A relay that has 8 pins. I would be eternally grateful if anyone out there that really understands the language would chime in.
How should I wire this up.
Thanks,
Tim M
I recently pulled the defective 2A relay from the AC control unit in my 1990 928.
I have attached a photo of the old relay that has 6 pins and a photo of the new 5A relay that has 8 pins. I would be eternally grateful if anyone out there that really understands the language would chime in.
How should I wire this up.
Thanks,
Tim M
03-23-2006, 05:20 PM
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16 goes to coil on the left
1 goes to other end of coil on left
sometimes you may have to swap these as some coils are polarity sensitive
12 goes to NO on top
9 goes to COM on top
5 goes below NO on bottom
8 goes to COM on bottom
1 goes to other end of coil on left
sometimes you may have to swap these as some coils are polarity sensitive
12 goes to NO on top
9 goes to COM on top
5 goes below NO on bottom
8 goes to COM on bottom
03-23-2006, 05:20 PM
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On the face of it it looks like the new relay just has additonal NO contacts that the original didn't have.
The coil is 16 & 1 (it appears polearity doesn't matter on the new one - probably no diode)
9 & 12 look like they are NC & Com
8 & 5 look like they are the other NC & Com
To test for sure validate that:
9 & 12 are normally connected together (use ohmeter)
8 & 5 are normally connected together (use ohmeter)
If not then the connections are NO & Com instead.
Alan
PS:
Com = Common relay switch pole
NC = Normally Connected Contact (connected when relay is not energized)
NO = Normally Open Contact (only connected when relay is energized)
The coil is 16 & 1 (it appears polearity doesn't matter on the new one - probably no diode)
9 & 12 look like they are NC & Com
8 & 5 look like they are the other NC & Com
To test for sure validate that:
9 & 12 are normally connected together (use ohmeter)
8 & 5 are normally connected together (use ohmeter)
If not then the connections are NO & Com instead.
Alan
PS:
Com = Common relay switch pole
NC = Normally Connected Contact (connected when relay is not energized)
NO = Normally Open Contact (only connected when relay is energized)
03-23-2006, 05:40 PM
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I move to change Alan's thing from "Addict" to "928 Electrical Response Expert" or something along those lines. Anythread with electrical in it Alan's there. 
03-23-2006, 05:47 PM
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No - just test the contacts as noted.
Its not entirely clear how the old one is configured - the diagram looks mostly like NC contacts
But it is much more common to only have NO contacts if there is just one set.
- this is an oddball relay anyway (format/pinouut style) so who knows.. hence test
If you think you will get better information via a web search - good luck...
Alan.
Its not entirely clear how the old one is configured - the diagram looks mostly like NC contacts
But it is much more common to only have NO contacts if there is just one set.
- this is an oddball relay anyway (format/pinouut style) so who knows.. hence test
If you think you will get better information via a web search - good luck...
Alan.
03-23-2006, 05:52 PM
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It's a dsp2 relay. The contacts are normally open.
see here http://www.naisweb.com/e/relaye/mech...ch_eng_dsp.pdf
see here http://www.naisweb.com/e/relaye/mech...ch_eng_dsp.pdf
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03-23-2006, 06:00 PM
#9
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I agree exactly with what Alan said (naturally). The diagram on the old relay is confusing; the symbol looks more like NC switches but that is less common. You should either test your old one or see if the old relay manufacturer has a website with a better diagram although I looked a little and didn't find anything helpful.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
03-23-2006, 06:44 PM
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69gaugeman well found! 
Huh! - I'll say they are severely diagramatically challenged - even in their specification sheets
except by looking at the above config that shows a real NC I'd still have assumed it was a NC
I really don't see the point of printing something thats so unclear that its more likely
to be missinterpreted - either label NO/NC or hire someone who can draw diagrams!
Oh well - I think we at least have the correct answer!! what 69gaugeman said in his 1st post.
Tim - does your new one fit in the same socket? If not looks like you can still order
the old ones...
Alan
Huh! - I'll say they are severely diagramatically challenged - even in their specification sheets
except by looking at the above config that shows a real NC I'd still have assumed it was a NC
I really don't see the point of printing something thats so unclear that its more likely
to be missinterpreted - either label NO/NC or hire someone who can draw diagrams!
Oh well - I think we at least have the correct answer!! what 69gaugeman said in his 1st post.
Tim - does your new one fit in the same socket? If not looks like you can still order
the old ones...
Alan
03-23-2006, 08:33 PM
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Hey:
Thankyou all for responding. The new relay doesn't fit , so I would have to wire it as per Bill Sanders write up on the job.
Ordering the same realy would be the easiest, however the 2A was under rated for the application and that's apparently why so many people have this problem.
Thanks again for the help and I 'll let you know how it turns out.
Tim
Thankyou all for responding. The new relay doesn't fit , so I would have to wire it as per Bill Sanders write up on the job.
Ordering the same realy would be the easiest, however the 2A was under rated for the application and that's apparently why so many people have this problem.
Thanks again for the help and I 'll let you know how it turns out.
Tim
Last edited by steaditim; 03-23-2006 at 08:44 PM. Reason: additional info
03-24-2006, 08:47 AM
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Tim,
The original relay is good for 5 amps. If the new one is rated the same (5a) you will just add work and no extra benefit. At that point just replace with the original I would think.
Alan,
I also had to look at how they drew a NC contact before I was sure.
The original relay is good for 5 amps. If the new one is rated the same (5a) you will just add work and no extra benefit. At that point just replace with the original I would think.
Alan,
I also had to look at how they drew a NC contact before I was sure.
03-24-2006, 10:16 AM
#15
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Damn, I would have thought our own Elex wizzard would have been all over this one, Lomas where are you, I think he just repaced one of these HVAC parts a few weeks ago???. Stan