Driving and Fogs
03-21-2006 | 02:32 PM
#2
Supercharged
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From: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Waht year?
What's cheap?
What's safe?
What kind of upgrade?
The HIDs are AWESOME! I don't think there is a better value for the money in terms of lighting upgrades. And it's perfectly safe. BTW, if you do the main head lamps, you won't need the fogs IMHO.
What's cheap?
What's safe?
What kind of upgrade?
The HIDs are AWESOME! I don't think there is a better value for the money in terms of lighting upgrades. And it's perfectly safe. BTW, if you do the main head lamps, you won't need the fogs IMHO.
03-21-2006 | 02:39 PM
#3
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From: England
Mainly for a 84 S2, put the H4 silverstars into headlamps, just wondered what bulbs might improve the drivers and fogs without overstressing the standard wiring/fuses/relays. Is the S4 different?
03-21-2006 | 02:45 PM
#4
Supercharged
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IIRC the HIDs actually have a lower power consuption except for the initial startup. What do you consider an "Improvement?" If you want brighter-whiter-light, then the HIDs are your best bet. They're quite easy to install. I don't know if the U.K. laws restrict you from using them, but if not, it's the only way to go IMHO.
03-21-2006 | 02:55 PM
#5
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From: England
Well, so many tempting things to do, so little money I can justify...
Was impressed by the Silverstars, noticable improvement. Figured some higher output bulbs in the drivers and fogs might improve things a bit more.
Was impressed by the Silverstars, noticable improvement. Figured some higher output bulbs in the drivers and fogs might improve things a bit more.
03-21-2006 | 07:12 PM
#6
Electron Wrangler
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You can get H3's as used in the Fogs & Driving lights in a range of outputs from the stock 55W up to easily 100W.
The enclosure here is much smaller than the headlights so expect some significant heating if you went to 100W... Also the backing is plastic even though the lens is glass...
At up to 100W the wiring is OK. The fogs are switched by a relay - no issues @100W. The driving lights are usually switched by the column stalk (check) - so more risk of issues there... You should also be OK with the existing 16A fuse if you stay below 100W per side.
Since HID lights cannot be swithed on and off rapidly - I'd only suggest putting HID's in the fogs - in the driving lights you will be blinding people... or waiting for them to 'ignite' at the critical time...
As noted - except for a short periond @ startup HID's are much lower power ~35W for a much higher luminous output (e.g. much better than a 100W bulb).
Alan
The enclosure here is much smaller than the headlights so expect some significant heating if you went to 100W... Also the backing is plastic even though the lens is glass...
At up to 100W the wiring is OK. The fogs are switched by a relay - no issues @100W. The driving lights are usually switched by the column stalk (check) - so more risk of issues there... You should also be OK with the existing 16A fuse if you stay below 100W per side.
Since HID lights cannot be swithed on and off rapidly - I'd only suggest putting HID's in the fogs - in the driving lights you will be blinding people... or waiting for them to 'ignite' at the critical time...
As noted - except for a short periond @ startup HID's are much lower power ~35W for a much higher luminous output (e.g. much better than a 100W bulb).
Alan