Here is a little more history. I had a hell of a time gettting this car started after it sat over Christmas for a oil pan gasket change. It was really laboring to turn over. I cleaned all the grounds and connectors, changed starters, etc. I also checked to see if my flywheel had any pressure on it. It did not. I released the pressure last year and did the Loctite fix. I do not think it is TBF. I finally rolled it over and got it to start. Since that day, the car has spun over as fast as it ever has without any problems. I still do not know why the starter was laboring so much.

A couple weeks later, the car basically dies while driving. I checked several things again. I chalked it up to bad gas since it had been sitting for so long. I then went to hook up my Spanner for the first time and found a considerable amount of corrosion on the EZK connector. I cleaned this up and had no faults with the Spanner.

Now I am here. Something is going on, and I am at a loss.

By the way, I swaped my MAF into my Euro right before Christmas to see if it would help, but it did not. It ran fine with this S4 MAF.

Thanks for the help. I thought I would try and answer some of the posts.

 

Hi Mike take a look under the passenger side dash see if you have water leaking onto your fuse panel close the wood panel and look up, your looking for tell tale signs of water leaking down from the bottom of the blower assembly, if so then I would pull all of the relays and see if any have corrosion on them if they do then it is time to open up any relay that look suspicious, if you do have water leaking then you will have to remove the blower assembly and add some 3M black strip caulk, also check the 14 pin connector and the big wire under the hood near the front of the passenger side cross brace disconnect the battery before working on this connection, Stan

 

Ok, here is the latest. Went out to the garage and pulled the car out. It fired right up and ran perfect. I let it idle until the fans came on. I then shut it down. I waited about 10 minutes, and ten restarted. It started the low, rough idle thing and finally died. I then unplugged the MAF and the car started good and settled on a little low idle, but it was smooth and not shaking the car. I plugged the MAF back in and the car started the rough shaky idle again. I think my MAF is bad. The only thing that is a little odd is that the car will not take any throttle with the MAF unplugged. Is this beacause I have my airbox off?

Should I still swap my Euro MAF in, or is this enough proof?

I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine and he said on a lot of cars, the wire gets crap on it from backfire and things like that. This gunk is what throws it out of adjustment. He sometimes gets lucky by cleaning the wire with a Q-tip and brake cleaner. This removes the gunk and is fine again. Is this BS?

Where is the best place to get these MAFs? I think 928INTL sells John Speake's rebuilds.

Thanks

 

Mike..........had the same issue with my car with the MAF disconnected, would not take any throttle.

John Speake rebuilt unit later and shes purring.

According to PET the '84 has an Air Flow Meter, 85's and up have MAFs but perhaps the Euro's different?

 

I don't think anybody here has advised trying to clean the wire. It has a burn-off mode that should take care of whatever crap. Perhaps that burn-off mode is broken. But, hey, I'd probably try to clean it, just for the sake of science..

 

Just checked the John Speake site where he states that MAFs are fitted to all 84-86 UK S2 and Euro S except CAT fitted German cars.

The wire burn off is 1000C so not sure what you could use to clean and the wire is extremely thin Platinum. Is the burn off not controlled by the LH brain?

With the new info try swapping with your Euro car and let us all know.

 

Here who I used for my MAF replacement - good shop to work with. They do all FI components too.

BRET instuments Inc.
1701 E. Edinger Ave., Ste. E-1
Santa Ana, CA 92705

PH 714 835-4064
FX 714 835-6469

 

The problem with swapping my euro MAF in is that I need that car for my daily driver tomorrow. I cannot do anymore work today since I have some other obligations.

Is there any doubt from anyone that my MAF is fried? I plan to order one tomorrow unless there is something else someone feels I should check.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Yes, the LH controls the burn off. Unless the wire is heavily contaminated with oil I wouldn't try a solvent clean.....if you do, bear in mind the wire is only 80 micron diameter :-)

Yes, 928 Intl stock my rebuilds.

Mike - how many miles on the car ?

 

John,
The car has about 90K miles on it. What do you think? Does it sound like the MAF versus O2 sensor or LH? I replaced the O2 sensor maybe 15K miles ago. The LH and MAF are probably original.

Thanks
Mike

 

No faults with the Spanner, and a continuing problem with warm starts sure leans me toward MAF, as I mentioned before. It could still be an LH problem but I don't think likely since you have no codes.

Doc

 

Let me throw one more vote in for the MAF. I had the exact same symptoms as you on my 86.5. A kind soul here on Rennlist helped me out with a used MAF and I have been running smooth ever since.

 

Hi Mike,
If no one can lend you a MAF, send me a PM...