I've decided to go with a two-post lift. Any thoughts on symmetric vs. asymmetric?

Thanks,
Mark.

 

Assymetric will allow you to open the doors while the car is on the lift. Very handy. There will be times when the car is on the lift and you don't want to(or can't) set it down and roll it back to get the door open.

 

I have an asymmetric. It's the only way to go IMHO.

 

I have asymmetric so I can only speak to that style....works great but you still have to be very carefull when opening the doors.....I recently dinged my truck door so the plan is to strategically place some padding on the posts.
Also...does look a little scary when you put a long vehicle up there ( like a full size PU) makes me wonder if it is straining the floor anchors.

 

Currently installing an (older) asymmetric lift .... slowly but surely. The ability to swing the cars doors was the most attractive feature for home use, especially as it had a 12" narrower post spacing due to these lift arms.

What did you guys use for floor anchors? I have some 16mm Hilti studs that spin into their epoxy packets ... but that may be overkill.

 

Good choice... don't think there is such a thing as overkill in this situation

If I recall I used 5/8" thunderstuds......sort of a reverse wedge device that gets tighter as you try to pull it out.

 

How do you get a car on a lift if you can't open the doors?

I've found a good deal on a used Ammco lift; I need to figure out where to put it. When a 928 is up on an asymmetrical lift, how far behind or ahead of the centerline of the car is the centerline of the lift? In other words, how asymmetrical is it?

Thanks,
Mark.

 

On an asymmetrical lift the post will be forward of the mirror on the door, or even with it. On a symmetrical lift, the post will be ~6" behind the mirror. The door can be opened on either type of lift, but the asymmetrical lift gives you a lot more room to swing the door.

 

Generally you just push the car onto the lift. Easier if there is no floor plate between the posts.

 

Mark,
Doing the floor layout was the early AM project today ( after sandblasting & painting the base, and retapping twelve M16x2x50mm holes .... gasp). The distance between the posts and the position of the front lift pads wrt the post centerline when under the front lift spots of your 928 are critical to know. This will be different for every lift. Actually, in doing this exercise, allow for the rest of your fleet also - but the 928 is a good place to start for measurements. Iamb assuming that you have access to the lift - if so, the easiest way is to swing and/or extend the front arms until they are separated by the width of the cars two front lift points: take the measure to the posts, and go from there.
With this data, mock up a floor layout to allow easy access, working room, easy parking, etc.
I haven't yet drilled the floor - but once will be enough!

 

Garth,

I have access to the lift, but it's in parts. I guess I can calculate the layout by measuring the length of the arms (and, of course, the width of the crosspiece).

If I manufactured lifts, I'd make this information freely available to potential buyers.

 

My 'new' old toy is still in parts too: I'm going to do a final dimensional plot before drilling the floor- just to be sure.
Basically, graph a 'drive on' centerline for the hoist perpendicular to the width of the columns. Center the cars four lift points on that bisecting line, and graphically 'slide' it back or forth to have the front lift arm contact the forward lift point with a reasonably short extension of this arm ( 'shorter' better centers the weight on the hoist).
To do the latter, you need to get a physical measurement of the short front swing arm to where it meets the front lift spot as the car is 'moved' on that centerline. This then locates the hoist wrt the car - so the rest is fitting the whole works into the garage where it suits you.
Yep, a PITA without a spec sheet .... but not all that bad: doing the second one would be a breeze.

 

Most of these lits have a lifting cable that goes from one side to the other, and as such the distance between the posts is the most critical dimension. If there is a floorplate you should be OK. If there is not, and it is possible to get the distance between the posts wrong, then a little exra care is needed to make sure you get it right.