Cam gear differences
03-11-2006, 10:06 PM
#1
On the Bandwagon
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cam gear differences
TB?WP went well - and thanks to all who helped but we hit a snag. One of WP bolts must have sheared on PO and is stuck in block. We unsuccessfully tried to remove, but it will have to be drilled out an heli-coiled.
Anyway, the question of the day is:
Cam gears are beginning to show wear on the coating, so I decided to replaced. Dozman very kindly had sent me 2 gears, but we noticed they were 2 different part numbers: 928 105 530 00 and 928 105 530 01. Currently I have the 01s on the car which is correct with PET. What are the 00s? Can't find on PET or on 928 Intl. The 01s have 3 small holes adjacent to each of the slots - the 00s don't.
Cheers
Anyway, the question of the day is:
Cam gears are beginning to show wear on the coating, so I decided to replaced. Dozman very kindly had sent me 2 gears, but we noticed they were 2 different part numbers: 928 105 530 00 and 928 105 530 01. Currently I have the 01s on the car which is correct with PET. What are the 00s? Can't find on PET or on 928 Intl. The 01s have 3 small holes adjacent to each of the slots - the 00s don't.
Cheers
03-11-2006, 11:19 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
IIRC 00s came on 85-86 cars. 01s superceded on 87s. I know there is no problem with using 01s on older cars, so I would assume the reverse is true. The other difference is the timing marks. I think 00s have it on one side, 01s on both sides.
03-11-2006, 11:49 PM
#3
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Yeah, what Matt said. 01 has a wider timing notch on the front as well as the small timing notch on the rear. I make paint marks on the front anyway as a guide.
If you drill carefully using lefthand bits, you may be able to back the WP bolt out and avoid a helicoil. Even if you don't have lefthand bits, drilling progressively out until you just have the thinnest shell of the bolt left, may allow you to pick out the remnants and cleanup the hole with a tap. Depending on the bolt location, it is generally a good idea to remove the radiator to give you more room and a more direct shot on the hole giving you a better chance of drilling straight. Best to not use EZ outs - they tend to snap and make things worse. My first time I had trouble telling exactly where the bolt was after it snapped flush. You must drill dead-center. I used the old WP as a drill guide to get the drilling started in the right place. That worked like a charm.
If you drill carefully using lefthand bits, you may be able to back the WP bolt out and avoid a helicoil. Even if you don't have lefthand bits, drilling progressively out until you just have the thinnest shell of the bolt left, may allow you to pick out the remnants and cleanup the hole with a tap. Depending on the bolt location, it is generally a good idea to remove the radiator to give you more room and a more direct shot on the hole giving you a better chance of drilling straight. Best to not use EZ outs - they tend to snap and make things worse. My first time I had trouble telling exactly where the bolt was after it snapped flush. You must drill dead-center. I used the old WP as a drill guide to get the drilling started in the right place. That worked like a charm.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 03-12-2006 at 01:02 AM.
