hacker-pschorr

Ok, just to really push this possibly growing pissing match, I'll throw in this monkey wrench. The WSM says "lubricate" the threads. How generic is that? Should I use Vaseline? How about baby oil? If we are to assume motor oil - what weight? My car was built in 1981 - oil has changed just a bit since then. Maybe it means assembly lube which has different lubrication properties than motor oil. Maybe use liquid Teflon - excellent lube, is that what the WSM is talking about? Maybe I'm supposed to spit on the threads - in a pinch that can work as lube.

I look at any settings / values in the WSM as an overall guide. Hell, your torque wrench could be off by 5 ft-lbs, then what? Is the motor going to fall apart? If the exact number in the WSM is to 100% absolute, exactly the way you must do it or the car will fall apart - it wouldn't be that vague and say "lubricate". How about head bolts? Depending on which version of the WSM you have, the torque sequence is different (one has a value, others have a value then degrees to turn the nut, IIRC).

Please note - the comments in this post do not necessarily represent the views of the poster. This is simply throwing another point of view on the table. Please refrain from calling me names, saying things about my mother and threatening to do sexual things to my dog (as these things tend to happen in flame threads).

I say be safe - put loctite on one half of every bolt - antisieze on the other. That way you are 100% covered no matter what. I say JB Weld the rod nuts on.

Airflite40

SwayBar

Pissing match? I don't see it as a 'pissing match' at all. The 'pissing match' is pretty much one-sided if one chooses to NOT follow the FACTORY workshop manuals.

Go to page 13 - 13 in the WSM which mentions 'Lubricate' several times.

For example, for the piston it states to 'Lubricate slightly'.

And for the 'Connecting rod nut', it states to 'Lubricate threads and bearing surface'.

Since it's an engine, and since it states to lubricate the piston slightly as well as the connecting rod nuts, it's safe to assume the reference to 'Lubricate' is engine oil.

What do you suppose would happen if one applied those materials onto a piston with fresh rings? The engine would never break-in, so again, it's safe to say the WSM is NOT talking about those lubricants.

In your palm, yes, a piston in an engine, no.

Did you not see 'My Cousin Vinny'? Is it the Porsche engineers responsibility to remind you to periodically check your torque wrench calibration?

The WSM is very specific regarding which year cylinder-heads gets what tightening sequence.

Then it was a pretty lame attempt, and sounds like you're making excuses as to NOT follow the WSM's. You can save yourself a lot of time by simply getting rid of them, since you don't follow them anyway. I can use another set!

Please consult page 13 - 13 of the 928 WSM one last time before doing so.

BC

Red loctite on the rod bearing backs? Would they really keep them from being spun?

When a bottom end is reassembled, resizing the big ends is usually a good idea, especially if you put new rod bolts on, which you should.

BC

ARP rod bolts DO come with thier own torque specs and thier own lube.

hacker-pschorr

I always follow the WSM - look up "Devils Advocate" in Google

My commnet to the head bolts refers to different generations of the WSM - there have been changes to this procdure over the years (well, two that I know of) so depending on what edition WSM you have, this could be different.