Leaky power steering tank/hose?
#1
Race Director
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Leaky power steering tank/hose?
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This happens every winter....it appears both power steering hoses coming off the bottom of the fluid tank are slowing leaking right at the hose clamp under the tank....then the fluid slowly drips down the hose & onto everything else!
I found two part numbers for replacement hoses:
928-347-445-05 "hose" this goes from the tank to the pump (About $15)..looks pretty easy to change
928-347-350-00 "Coiled cooling pipe"..($86) this thing is huge and runs all over the place...it must be a PITA to change....so heres the question? I don't need to change the whole cooling pipe, only the top rubber section...but I can't tell if the upper rubber section is removable or do you have to change the whole thing to fix it?
Ideas? It looks like the "cut the old dried out piece off the top of the hose and take out the slack-reattach" won't work since its already been done?
So I tell myself its only a couple drips a week & only during the winter....but I hate drips!!!!!!!!!!!! It seems to be a common problem..any ideas?
This happens every winter....it appears both power steering hoses coming off the bottom of the fluid tank are slowing leaking right at the hose clamp under the tank....then the fluid slowly drips down the hose & onto everything else!
I found two part numbers for replacement hoses:
928-347-445-05 "hose" this goes from the tank to the pump (About $15)..looks pretty easy to change
928-347-350-00 "Coiled cooling pipe"..($86) this thing is huge and runs all over the place...it must be a PITA to change....so heres the question? I don't need to change the whole cooling pipe, only the top rubber section...but I can't tell if the upper rubber section is removable or do you have to change the whole thing to fix it?
Ideas? It looks like the "cut the old dried out piece off the top of the hose and take out the slack-reattach" won't work since its already been done?
So I tell myself its only a couple drips a week & only during the winter....but I hate drips!!!!!!!!!!!! It seems to be a common problem..any ideas?
#2
Burning Brakes
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I have found through similar experience...that there is enough room, to cut off the compressed section of the hoses from the nipples on the bottom of the reservior...then reinstall the hoses over the nipples, reclamp, and fixed...this gives you a new and unmolested surface to reclamp on the nipples without having to purchase new hoses and do the swap. Cheap...but effective cure.
#3
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Brian, I've got the same problem on mine too. I bought the replacement hoses last winter, but haven't put them on yet, since the leaks stopped once it warmed up. Haven't seen the leaks again this year....yet.
#4
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Neither of these lines are high pressure lines. I've done the cut-off refresh, as you an others mention, but you note you have no slack left in that hose. You could try to extend the rear hose, that is bonded to the "coiled cooling pipe" with an appropriately sized splice pipe, rubber hose and clamps, cutting off the end a bit more to give you a fresh surface. I have never replaced one. I just spent 10 minutes under the car trying to find where it runs. I could not locate it. I've had the rack and crossmember out and I don't remember anything like this. It must be really buried.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Yeah, mine started doing that too (red ATF, right?), just before I put it away for the winter. I have it scheduled for Spring. Tony (V1 UH OH) says it only looks like a PITA, but is a snap:
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/power.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/power.htm
#6
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The line Brian is having trouble with attaches to the return line Tony replaced, but it is not the same line. I need to get the car down off the rack and look from above to see where the "coiled" section runs. It appears there is a clamp that holds it to the body somewhere. I could not spot it from below.
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#9
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Oh, thanks Bill, I see. Is the line in Tony's write-up part number 928-347-445-05 then?
#10
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It looks like #12 would be pretty easy to replace....its the #29 that would be a bare....Hopefully all the leaking is coming from #12.....will have to take a better look when I get home today! I'll take some pictures
#11
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My car doesnt have the cooling line, so may be different but..The problem I had here with a return line replacement is that one end of the crimped hose is 10mm id, and the end that goes on to the reservoir nipple is 12mm id....and much as I tried, off the car, there was NO way I could get a replacement 10mm id hose over the reservoir nipple. In the end I made up a stepping attachment and an elbow to get that line attached. The pump supply line is pretty straight forward.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
#12
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As memory serves, the metal trombone cooling loop debuted with the '87 S4. I'm fixing to discoverif it will retrofit to my 86.5, since what started with mildly annoying seepage from the power steering system and driver's side valve cover gasket, enough to leave an occasional tell-tale on the garage floor and leave the left downpipe smelling indiscreet after a hard run up the mountain, has turned into a major top-end dismantling, with parts and carefully sacked fasteners spread left to right across all the flat surfaces of the garage.
Jim, if you're reading this, does 928 Int'l accept mortgages?
Steve Davis
Harrison, AR
86.5 auto, Garnet/Garnet, 195K miles
Jim, if you're reading this, does 928 Int'l accept mortgages?
Steve Davis
Harrison, AR
86.5 auto, Garnet/Garnet, 195K miles
#13
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I can see the first few inches of the trombone (good description) section against the inner engine compartment wall below the reservoir. The clamp (items 30 & 31) is right there, and not way down near the end of the trombone section. I can't see where it goes from there.
#15
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I fixed this leak on my '89 with a new reservoir/filter (normal PM replacement anyway) and a new short section between the reservoir and the pump. That did the trick for me. I first tried to cut the end off the hose and reclamp, as others have suggested, but it still leaked. JB recommended that I try the reservoir and short hose first, then do the longer/more difficult/more expensive hoses only if needed. Jim has infinitely more knowledge of these things than I do, so I took advantage of his knowledge and experience.