2ndof2

A few days ago I posted about the idea of selling my car to a friend but now I'm thinking of fixing this beast and keeping it. I wondered how tough it is to replace the valve lifters on a MY1980? Are there any specific tools I will need? Anyone happen to have pictures of the process or possibly some schematics to follow?
Thanks in advance!
p.s. It gets frustrating with mechanical issues but then I take a look at the design of this car and well......gotta fix it and drive it!

justin

Whats wrong with the lifters?

Bill Ball

I went back and re-read your thread from early in 2005.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/188829-question-for-all-you-motor-gurus-out-there.html

Sorry, this is a basic question - have you traced the sound to the cam covers? Rubber hose to one ear, place other end on the valve cover. I only ask because I never saw it stated (maybe I missed it), and at least one reply suggested an exhaust leak. Exhaust leaks can make loud ticking noises too and can vary with heat expansion.

GlenL

Curious as to "why" but the "how" is a real PITA. There are 15 bolts holding each cam tower to the head. 9 are along the bottom with very limited access and a propensity to be frozen. Loosen the tensioner and remove the belt first. Removing the upper crossmember (brace) can help when getting the towers out of the engine.

I had a failure where the lifter sleeve had worn away. The lifter rocked easily and that made a distinct "clack-clack" noise. Early cars have separate sleeves while later 16V engine just use bores in the tower.

2ndof2

Ok, Will try to answer all the questions:
First, the reason I think its the lifter(s) is that the car ticks a little upon start up then quiets down...then starts to tick again. I had tried all the additives, cleaners, etc etc for the motor and oil and it would quiet down for a little bit (measured in minutes, not days or weeks) and it would start clicking again. Most people who have heard it live say it sounds like a lifter but no one is absolutely certain. As for trying to isolate the noise, I haven't, but I will soon. I'm pretty sure its a top-end noise. If it is an exhaust valve is there any difference in what I would hear or how it would react to oil additives, warm/cold motor etc? Very resourceful of you taking a peek at the old post Bill...man thats doing some homework if I've ever seen it....I appreciate that. Glen, the top end has been apart in the last few years (4-5 yrs ago) for a blown head gasket repair due to a bad waterpump and my ingorance about shutting it down IMMEDIATELY. So it sounds like getting to the bolts is a real PITA then? I have some experience with replacing brake pressure sensors and it was virtually impossible w/out the right tools...lots of stuff in the way like delicate brake lines. I have a buddy, another Rennlister who does lots of mod work to his 993 and I've done things like replace the mufflers on my 993, change the drive axle on the 928, rotors/brakes on the 993 etc. I think I may be able to handle it if its not too technical in terms of special tools needed or special alignments that must be adhered to, again with special tools. If its just time consuming but straight forward I'm ready to give it a go with my buddy. After this I will attack the bad suspension parts like shocks and some things like sway bar connectors, tie rod ends gone bad. So......if I can isolate the noise and its a lifter how tough to do? If its an exhaust valve, same question. Does anyone have pictures or something to go on so I don't go in blindly? I may know someone with a shop manual for a little bit later year like an '84 but thats not for sure yet. Any help is greatly appreciated here guys!

2ndof2

"Bueler...Anyone??????" (quote from Ferris Bueler's day off)

Imo000

Removing the cam towers is really not that difficult. Get a copy of the work manual and follow the instruction. The special tool that the manual asks for is nothing more than an extended allan head socket. I made on out of an old allan key and a regular socket. Taping the two together kept the allen key from sliding out of the socket.

2ndof2

That sounds good. Is getting to the exhaust valves any more difficult a job once in there?

Imo000

That depends on what exactly do you want to do with the valves. The 16V 928 cylinder head design is less than traditional. It’s actually pretty weird if you are only used to seeing regular overhead cam heads. Contact Jim Moorhouse and buy a copy of his scanned work shop manual CD and study the cam and head removal section. This will answer a lot of your existing questions. It’s a lot easier to understand how the 928 works if you can see it in a picture.

checkmate1996

I just got done with removing the cam towers. I had not done a refresh but they are PITA(3-4 weeks to get one bolt out...ask GLENL & AIRFLITE LOL) if you do get stuck, 928 motorsports sells the tool if you don't want to make one.

I didn't need the manual to get to the towers. At least to me, the engine is just a lot of big parts bolted on. Pretty straightforward. Just DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT your adventure.

Good Luck...

checkmate1996

BTW, nice looking 928. Somebody on ebay was selling a similar set of wheels on ebay that had a black 928...was that you?

Bill Ball

If you have blown exhaust manifold gaskets or a loose manifold, the noise will be in the engine compartment and vary due to heat expansion. Sure, it would not react to engine solvents. However, it seems to me if the solvents cleaned up the lifters, they should have stayed quiet. Anyway, you need to track the noise with a hose. If it is the litters, others who have been in there can fill you in on the process.

2ndof2

Hey Brad, never had the car advertised. Sounds like the bolts are going to be real fun!!!! I guess nobody has any open top end picks doing this particular job so I'll see what I can do about that CD of the manual for an '80 and also try to find some pics of anyone who posted an opened up top end. I agree if the lifters were cleaned they shouldn't keep clicking so loudly. Something is broken or worn out. Will document the job, partly so I know how it all goes back together. If any of you happen to have any additional helpful info I'm listening! Thanks.

Charlie944

I was curious if the lifters were infact the problem here and if so what was seemed to be the cause of the problem? (bad lifter, poor oiling, etc) Reason why I am asking is that my good friend just bought a 80' Euro 928S and it has some ticking issues very similar to what you described in your initial post. Currently, he has fresh Valvoline Syn 20w-50 and it still ticks at idle and usually it is more pronounced after a highway run. But then it periodically goes away and then comes back.
Thank you and take care!

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

I used my '80 Euro S for 10 years as a street car, lifter noise was a frequent but intermittent symptom. I just lived with it.