Anyone Re-Wrap Steering Wheels?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Anyone Re-Wrap Steering Wheels?
I'm looking to either find a good used leather 3 spoke steering wheel or get mine re-wrapped for my '79....
#3
Rennlist Member
There is a company that I have dealt with, they do a decent job.
Alan Gun Leather Acessories
(Plantation, Fl.)
800-780-4500
Alan Gun Leather Acessories
(Plantation, Fl.)
800-780-4500
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bill Swift
Pretty sure 928 Int'l sells kits to DIY.
#6
928 OB-Wan
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Brad,
I got the kit from 928SP and about fainted when I saw all those tiny little holes...
I took it to my local seamstress and she had one of her girls do it on her own time, took 2 days and cost me about $80... not perfect but pretty close
I got the kit from 928SP and about fainted when I saw all those tiny little holes...
I took it to my local seamstress and she had one of her girls do it on her own time, took 2 days and cost me about $80... not perfect but pretty close
#7
Originally Posted by GUMBALL
There is a company that I have dealt with, they do a decent job.
Alan Gun Leather Acessories
(Plantation, Fl.)
800-780-4500
Alan Gun Leather Acessories
(Plantation, Fl.)
800-780-4500
Curt
'86.5S 5-speed
ex-'91 GT
ex-'87 S4 AT
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#8
Rennlist Member
I had my wheel done last year - I supplied leather, cost me $150, guy swore he would never do another so cheaply. He got a small bit of crap trapped underneath, right top centre facing driver, and had to undo stitching to get it out, but after that it was a nice job.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.
#9
928 Barrister
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've done two of those buggers, one of which is attached hereto:
I don't blame the guy for not wanting to do another one for so little money.
I did not change the leather, just restiched it, and then re-dyed it greyish-green. The learning curve will take the most time, with trial and error. Search the archives for my description to save you some time and lots of cussing. Once you have the correct sequence down, it goes easily, just time consuming because you must concentrate. Remember, if you plan to re-dye the thing, that you must scuff it BEFORE restiching unless you wish to re-stich the parts you wore away with the scuff pad !! Think ahead. Have some contact cement handy; use the kind that you can pull loose and then reset if you don't get it correct the first time. I got my cement from OSH and I seem to remember it was called Barge brand. Get a curved needle from your local sewing store; just ask for leather upholstery needles and thread. Before you begin stiching, make certain that all the old thread is pulled off of anywhere on the wheel, to avoid what was described above. Also remember to allow at least FOUR times the length of thread for the apparent length you wish to sew in one pass, because you will make one pass, and then return to your starting point and must have enough to make a tight final stich, including anothe third partial pass to bury the end. That means your first few stiches will be more time consuming because you must pass such a long length of thread through the holes without getting it tangled. Swearing helps sometimes, so go somewhere no one will hear you.
Have a padded room ready for the first try and then if you are still interested in finishing, you will be OK. Good luck. I watched some TV to keep me from getting bored. Also, I recommend not trying to do it all in one sitting. Do one section at a time, saving the center section for last, because that's the most fun. That's where you will need the glue and that is when you must finish the stiching by joining the center area to the outer sections, meaning you must begin the center section IN one of the outer sections and ending in the other one.
I don't blame the guy for not wanting to do another one for so little money.
I did not change the leather, just restiched it, and then re-dyed it greyish-green. The learning curve will take the most time, with trial and error. Search the archives for my description to save you some time and lots of cussing. Once you have the correct sequence down, it goes easily, just time consuming because you must concentrate. Remember, if you plan to re-dye the thing, that you must scuff it BEFORE restiching unless you wish to re-stich the parts you wore away with the scuff pad !! Think ahead. Have some contact cement handy; use the kind that you can pull loose and then reset if you don't get it correct the first time. I got my cement from OSH and I seem to remember it was called Barge brand. Get a curved needle from your local sewing store; just ask for leather upholstery needles and thread. Before you begin stiching, make certain that all the old thread is pulled off of anywhere on the wheel, to avoid what was described above. Also remember to allow at least FOUR times the length of thread for the apparent length you wish to sew in one pass, because you will make one pass, and then return to your starting point and must have enough to make a tight final stich, including anothe third partial pass to bury the end. That means your first few stiches will be more time consuming because you must pass such a long length of thread through the holes without getting it tangled. Swearing helps sometimes, so go somewhere no one will hear you.
Have a padded room ready for the first try and then if you are still interested in finishing, you will be OK. Good luck. I watched some TV to keep me from getting bored. Also, I recommend not trying to do it all in one sitting. Do one section at a time, saving the center section for last, because that's the most fun. That's where you will need the glue and that is when you must finish the stiching by joining the center area to the outer sections, meaning you must begin the center section IN one of the outer sections and ending in the other one.
#10
Former Vendor
Hey guys,
I might be interested in doing some of that work if there is a demand. I did a few already, aside from my own. Some of you know my work. I am personally more into custom work, but I can also do as per original.
Email me at champagn@stx.rr.com if you are interested.
Paul
I might be interested in doing some of that work if there is a demand. I did a few already, aside from my own. Some of you know my work. I am personally more into custom work, but I can also do as per original.
Email me at champagn@stx.rr.com if you are interested.
Paul
#12
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Coral Gables, Florida
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It's been a while but I think AGLA has an exchange program so you do not have to be without a steering wheel. They did a very good job on my wheel but it is clearly wearing again. I would rather have a custom one like Paul's with wood or something that won't wear as fast on the top. Plus sometimes it feels like steering a school bus with that huge wheel.
Alan
Alan
#13
I have just a few small areas on the steering wheel of my '89 S4 where the stitching is failing. The leather covering is fine. Is it possible to just stiych these areas. I'd hate to make it worse.
Steve
Steve
#14
I just finished installing a Wheelskins cover, two tone euro perforated. If you go directly to Wheelskins you can get any combination of colors and perforations. The secondary sources limit your choices somewhat.
Overall it is an improvement on the all black three spoke wheel, both in appearance and fee--it ends up a bit thicker, as you would expect.
Overall it is an improvement on the all black three spoke wheel, both in appearance and fee--it ends up a bit thicker, as you would expect.