Lance J

I converting my OB 79 to EfI, Looking for the l-jet, 16v parts to bolt on my 79. going fully aftermarket with my engine management. B4 i bolt the turbo system on. anyone have some of the parts i need. i want total control b4 i boost this OB. I'm looking to run: 12 psi, IC'd,water injection, x-pipe, bigger injectors, and MSDS. i'm shooting for 400+hp.

Tony

Its been done i think?
I cant recall who but they did a swap out with chevy electronics/efi?
Stan was that you??

tammons

I dont have any parts, but I can tell you if you are running turbos an X pipe wont do much. The exhaust pulse is so chopped up and there is so much backpressure to the heads I doubt you would gain 5 hp from an X pipe.

Also I would probably skip the Ljet and go with an electromotive setup.

I had that on my last T car and it is the easiest and most solid, reliable, I tried.

It takes some doing to get it set up, but its not that bad. Very easy to tune and you have total engine control. Timing control is a must.

Get 81 or after flow tubes and find a TB with a TPS on it or modify yours to take a GM tps. Add the extra sensors etc. The tricky part is mounting the trigger wheel on the HB, but I paid $125 to have a machine shop mount the trigger wheel for me. The pickup is not bad either. Just a small fabbed alum. bracket.

You will have to fab new fuel rails, or have them made. Go to the JY and pull 10 or so 43# injectors from TB ford 302 V8's. Flow and test them. I built a test rig out of an old fuel rail and a bosch pump all JY. These are bosche injectors and dump a lot of fuel. Kinsler FI makes a press on nipple for them that converts them to an oring normal setup.

Hang on. At 12 psi an early 928 5 speed is a wicked fast ride. Mine at 12 psi mine was so fast spooling it beat me through the gears. Faster than my 400 hp pantera for sure and that car weighs 2900#.

Basically too fast to drive in the rain and a whoile lot of fun if you can evade John Law.

Lance J

thanks tammons, i will start hunting down, parts....but i wasn't looking to run the l-jet brain just the fuel and intake parts that will bolt up to my car. then i'm thinking of going with megasquirt. cheap thought and pretty refine now. plus i can solder pretty good.
Tony i will track down some gm sensors. well i can just take a look at my impala before she sells.

cdbtx

Here's a system that I'm working on. http://force-efi.com/

A fraction of the cost of Motronic. SDI also has a system but not as simple. It all depends how far you want to go.

Dean Krenz modified his TB for the TPS. Cam and Crank sensors - SDI sells all these at a very reasonable price.. and has some great technical articles on the conversion (Generic).

Jim Nowak

I've got an Electromotive Tec-II on my 5.4L 2-valve engine but tuning it to run properly under all conditions has been a major pain.

Imo000

Sounds like a fun project! Take a lot of pictures so you can keep us updated.

Just one question, why an intercooler and water/alcohol injection? One of the other should be more than enough and an intercooler is the better of the two.

Lance J

next week i'm getting a basline dyno of the car will take video.

Lance J

Imo000: well i'm gonna have the water/alcohol injection on a temperture sensor. i gets really hot here in the summer time. just for back-up. i just thought the money i save on a cheap intercooler i could buy a nice shurflow pump to convert my wiperfluid res. the one for the headlights no one every uses. to hold the mixture. plus i will be running w/o being ic'd for a while because i like driving just as much as i like tuning

Imo000

I see, just be careful not to run out of water. At 12 psi the boosted air gets EXTREMLY hot. I was also looking into using water injection before I decided to go with an intercooler. The small headlight washer reservoir was one of the candidates to hold the liquid in. Excellent location but the problem was that it’s a very small container. The other draw back of alcohol injection is that you have to keep an eye on the container, and perhaps even need to install something to let you know that the system is active. This is the main reason I went with an intercooler. It’s always there and doesn’t need constant maintenance.

Lance J

no my non-ic'd boost max will be 8psi. i'm thinkning of using a slightly thicker headgasket. the is300 turbo guys use them to lower there compression down to 9.0:1. and they boost to about 18 psi. i'm not gonna reach 18psi maybe 14psi w/race gas.

hacker-pschorr

Friend of mine recently aquired a few 16V L-jet engines 100% intact. I doubt he has any use for the intake, fule lines injectors etc... Fire me a PM with an offer and I'll talk to him about it.

JEC_31

Thickening the headgasket to reduce compression is considered by some engine builders to be poor practice, as you reduce or eliminate the vital quench characteristics.
Toyota engines are fairly forgiving of extreme abuse.

When you lower the static compression, you automatically lose baseline power that must be made up with more boost. Thus, below your boost threshold the power - and throttle response - will be even less resulting in a perception of "more lag".
With the intricate level of fuel-air control you are planning, you *should* be able to carefully tune your boosted mix to work well with the stock compression (is this a US-spec motor?). So you retain low-rpm pre-boost driveability and economy and make even more power when you get on it.
Tuning, it's all in the tuning.

Here's some good reading on related topics:
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php

Imo000

Good diea to keep the non IC boost level to 8 psi or less.

Earlier this week there was a tread about different 928 engine specs. If I remember right, the early engies already had a fairly low CR(~7.9:1). You might not need to go any lower.

hacker-pschorr

IIRC for US cars:
78-79 = 8.5:1
80-82 = 9.0:1

EDIT - changed my numbers - had a brain fart.