MorganRock

Hi all... I have a 1986 928 5-spd, and we are currently having an issue with the alarm going off any time the car is turned on. We did the F25-B23 jump, to no avail. We have the books, but they are for the 83 model year, so the location of the alarm control center is wrong.

Would anyone happen to know where I could find it to at least disable the blasted horn? At this point we are just trying to get the car started after not being run for 6 years, and we are pretty sure it should work (worked fine before), provided the alarm is properly taken care of...

Thanks

jeff jackson

assuming you have the correct key for the factory alarm, its the only key that can be used to turn off the alarm. So try that...I'm not sure on yours, but my 86.5 uses fuse #1 for the Central Locking system, and No other fuse or Relay, says its for the alarm system, so pulling the fuse might disable the system, but I'm not sure. Make sure all your door, hatch and hood switches are closed, jumper them if necessary. Good Luck

jeff jackson

post your email address, and I'll send you the alarm schematic for your 86 model. its too large a file in .pdf format to attach to this post. Looks like the alarm is tied to the EZK ignition relay, and as long as its active...you can't start the car.

Alan

Remove the alarm control unit (Unplug). Then connect together Pin F25 and B23 on the bottom of the Central Electric Panel. This connection reenables the EZK/EZF (ingnition disable from the alarm).

Alan

MorganRock

My email is lacrossin2006@hotmail.com

I did know of the unplug/jumper course of action, I'm wondering where the ACU is though, because it's not underneath the passenger seat or behind the glove box... Anyone with 85-86 928's who know where I could find it?

jeff jackson

I think its under the center console..under the radio.

jeff jackson

wrong...its behind the glove box liner. Remove the AC tubes..and it slips into a metal retaining sleeve. Heres a link to a page of "invaluable information"...

http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm

and the specific page I am referring to is this

http://www.nichols.nu/tip276.htm

MorganRock

ok, so I disabled the alarm successfully, but I'm still getting not getting the 12V to my fuel pump (thus no fuel...). I jumpered F25/B23... I'm about to go try patching those back together and jumping 15 and 87a.

Should the alarm be cutting power to the fuel pump or am I barking up the wrong tree? (I'm still going to leave it disabled, since it is determined to go off at every possible opportunity, and I can't stand the stupid thing. I'll fix it after the car RUNS.)

Alan

On the plug connector for the Alarm: 15 & 87a connect directly to CE plugs B23 & F25

This should be Pins 1 & 4 on the connector after you remove the alarm module.

When you connected B23 & F25 - what did you do? Just link these 2 wires together - do not remove from the plug - do not unplug the plug...

Connecting 15 & 87a at the alarm connector should be the exact same thing...?

The disable goes to the EZK (spark controller). The EZK controls the fuel pump - if there is no spark you get no fuel... Seems like its still disabled...

F25 is the enable for the EZK relay - it must be high (12-14v) for the car to run.

Alan

MorganRock

yeah... for some reason F25 is getting no voltage. We did simply jump the two connections.. didn't pull anything unnecessary out. I figured there might be some difference in trying to jump them before the connector too (87a/15) but no change. SO... we're going to attempt to figure out why F25 isn't getting voltage/so on. There are a lot of lights goin' off on the dash, and the car has been in various states of assembly the past few years. My dad has taken numerous relays/parts off the car to use in his other cars, and we have to go through the whole thing to figure out what's there/what's not/what's in good condition. Just going through the fuses earlier, I found 5 blown fuses, and like 3-4 intermittants.

So, I'll keep everyone posted, I suppose. In the meantime, we'll be doing lots of debugging until the thing runs (could be a ground that's out somewhere.)

Alan

Check Central Electric plug pins B12/B11 (internally connected together) this should be the ignition directly from the switch. Does this work right?

If yes - connect direct to F25 & test?

Alan

MorganRock

Car runs now... turns out there was a leak around one's feet on the passenger side... right over top the central electrical panel . So, I cleaned all the grounds of all the rust, replaced like 5-6 blown fuses, touched up ALL the other fuses/added conductive grease, and replaced a broken fuel pump relay/fuel pump (car sat for 6 years, fuel pump froze HARD... we tried blasting it with higher current and it wouldn't break lose, so it was quite done), and it started up...

Now, there's a whole laundry list of rubber parts that need replacing, and I'm gonna swap a bunch of 87 parts we have off an S4 which burned up a couple years back in a shipping incident (got all the good parts tho )... So I'll have an 86.5 mechanically, and an S4 looks-wise. Unfortunately I can only come out on breaks to work on the car, as I'm still in college at UMD, so my winter break ends today... the revitalization of my car will have to wait till march. Til then it's in the hands of my dad (restored 3 928's from fires/salvage/etc) who can take care of a lot of it.

Thanks everyone for your help! Hopefully I'll see everyone soon at meets...

-Morgan