Alan

Mike,
I had a quick peek @ the '84 schematics - what a mess... Ah well - I'm still confused.

Near as I can make out things work differently than I expected... maybe I'm missing something here but it would appear the operation is a little different than the later cars.. please confiirm if you have an unmolested Euro '84...?

It seems the function is:

Windows & Sunroof always work when the doors or hatch are open (!)
Windows & Sunroof work whenever the key is in Accessory/Ignition (but not starter) positions. There appears to be no maintained operation after key is removed until the doors open (so presumably after you turn off they don't work until you open a door?? - note the door thing is a Euro onlyfeature).

The relay A in position III is a normal standard SPST type
The relay B in Poistion VI is a standard SPDT type (can find easily)

Relay A controls the windows being powered when door is open (not on USA) Relay B controls the X-Bus power and also disables the door lock motors when the X-bus is active (key in & accessory or ignition)

If Relay B is always on it implies the relay is stuck on or the X-bus is always on. But if this is true the electric door locks should not work....

Alternatively Relay A could be stuck on or if it thinks the doors are always open it will always be on. Are you sure your locks work correctly and that your interior switched lights (with the doors) work correctly??

If you pulled Relay A you'd only lose the windows powered with doors open feature.

As far as I can see for either relay the only power consumed when on would be the coil current - nothing else - this is probably ~200mA. This is enough to flatten the battery - but not quickly.

If the interior lights are actually on then you may have more....

I must say this was not what I expected - still scratching my head on this one???

HOWEVER - I expect what is really happening here is that you are testing for current with the doors open - so relay A (III) is on at that time (even with the interior light fuse pulled). Close the doors and test again....


Alan

PS Mike - thanks for updating the sig line in case I forget again...

byrdman454

Alan,
Here is the latest...I hope you can help.

With all of the doors and hatch closed, and the interior lights/clock fuse pulled, and the EZF relay pulled, I have a drain of about 15mA. As soon as I open the door, it jumps to 150mA. WTF?

The reason I had the EZF ignition relay pulled is because the drain on the battery is about 12 Amps with this plugged in, even without the window regulator fuses and relays and without the interior lights/clock fuse plugged in. What would cause such a drain on this one relay?? The relay I am using is a brand new one I just got last week.

Please help.
Thanks

Alan

Mike,
So relay III coil is the culprit for the 15mA -> 150mA when you open the door. This is as I predicted - normal (although a wierd design) and OK - the doors will be closed so not an issue.

So Questions:

1) Where is the 15mA going... radio or amplifier in standby? - disconnect to verify - this is ~OK - its not going to rapidly flatten the battery add back the clock - how much do you have then total? Probably ~ 20mA = OK

2) EZK 12A??? ! WTF! indeed - that will flatten your battery!

a) Why is the EZK active without the ignition on? Check the coil contact 86 (in the empty relay socket) also on PlugZ pin4 . Should be 12v with key in ignition position only...

b) Does the car run like this ? runs normally?

c) I'd suspect the ignition switch - but then you should see the normal ignition indicators in the dash too...

Alan

byrdman454

Alan,
I found some of the 12A. I started playing "follow the current" from the EZF and found that the intensive washer relay pins were rusted and the circuit board was broken in half. WOW, did not expect it. I am down to 1.3A. This is a lot better than 12A, but still unacceptable. I have since removed every relay and cleaned the contacts and sprayed everything down with lectric clean. It has made no difference...still at 1.3A pull. The only thing to kill the 1.3A is to pull the EZF relay. I think I may start pulling the connectors located below the relays and clean them.

I'll check your suggestions right now.

Thanks!

abbzer0

FWIW - I had similar problems. Windows and all. It was my ignition switch that was culprit. IIRC, I think it was $50 something to buy the part. Actually not all that difficult to replace. Remove steering wheel, remove bolts to pod, pull it out and replace the switch. That fix got rid of most of my car's demons. (Finally found the short for the constant 12V to my stereo last week, and now it works! ) Good luck either way!

byrdman454

I unplugged the ignition switch to try and isolate it and I still have the 1.3A draw. This does not seem to be the problem.

I also cleaned every connector under the relay/fuse panel. No change. Still 1.3A draw.

Please keep the ideas coming.

Thanks

Alan

Mike,
What do you have in the car that is non-original...?

Radio?, Amplifier?, radar detector?, more....? find them all and eliminate one by one by disconnecting... look at the battery +ve post - is anything unexpected connected there?

So before you pulled all the fuses right? do you now still have this leakage path with all fuses pulled...?

Alan

byrdman454

The only fuses with a draw is the clock and the window regulator. If I pull both of these fuses, the only think that has a draw is the EZF relay (1.3A). If I pull this relay and the two fuses I mentioned above, there is NO draw. What is tied to the EZF relay?

Thanks

AO

Well it sounds like your problem is neither the windows nor the clock, but rather the EZF relay or something attached through it. You've eliminated the ignition switch. So what else could it be? You're getting really close. Unfortunately, I do not have the wiring diagrams to tell you what else is connected. Maybe someone here does?

Alan

Mike,
Just the EZK & LH. Unplug them both and see if you still have the current draw.

Alan

byrdman454

Alan,
Here are the latest numbers...

Amp draws:
1) Everything hooked up, all fuses, relays, plus the LH and EZK modules = 1.8A
2) LH and EZK modules hooked up with the window reg fuse and interior light/clock fuse unhooked (doors open) = 1.33A
3) LH module hooked up with the 2 fuses and EZK module unhooked = 1.11A
4) EZK module hooked up with the 2 fuses and LH module unhooked = .39A
5) Both modules unhooked and both fuses unhooked = .16A

It seems like the LH module is pulling the most amps. This unit is recently rebuilt. The PO's shop had installed US injectors and fried the module. I have since had the module rebuilt and changed injectors. What could be the problem?
The part number of the EZK is 928 618 124 00. Is this the right module? It looks like the POs shop had bought a used module from 928 INTL long ago for some reason.

The entire draw still goes to zero if I pull the 2 fuses and the electronic ignition relay.

What now?

Thanks

byrdman454

bump

Alan

Mike the real question is why do you have any current (or voltage) to the LH & EZK. With the ignition off they should be off. Test the voltage level on every pin of plug X on central electric with the car off... pls post these results.

Alan

byrdman454

Alan,
I unplugged connector X. This is the last connector all the way to the bottom right of the relay board.

The actual plug I disconnected was completely dead.

I checked the pins coming from the relay board. I placed the hot probe on each pin and I used the door hinge as ground. My meter showed that only 2 pins had any voltage. The number 3 and 5 pins both had 12.6V. This is with the battery hooked up, but without the key in the ignition. Is this normal?

Please keep the ideas coming.
Thanks

byrdman454

bump