Tony

big DITTO on that.

DR

Rick,

>If I'd known your kit was coming I'd have waited.

Boost is boost... and BOOST IS FUN, no matter where you get it!!

I am truly happy for you and know you will be having lots of fun.. just promise me you will consider making me your exclusive tire supplier so I can retire early :-)

BrianG

Dave, does it NOT matter which direction the air flows through the throttle body?
No vacuum port issues?

DR

Brian,
>Dave, does not NOT matter which direction the air flows through the throttle body?

Correct, it doesn't really care.

>No vacuum port issues?

The originals are no longer "vacuum ports" and typically capped as in the photo, OR you could make one of them larger for your Idle Control Valve "input". You do have to make new vacuum ports on the other side of the throttle body "plate".. No biggie.

BrianG

Rick/Rob... I'm using your method of dealing with the power-steering/alternator drive belt space problem.

I have built the power-steering pulley spacer 320mm. This lines up the forward-most groove with the forward-most groove of the alternator.

The power-steering pulley has 5 grooves, while the alternator pulley has 6 grooves. What belt did you use?

Also.... what idler pulley did you use on the alternator pivot bolt?

Thanks!


Getting dangerously close!!

drnick

this drive belt solution is a really good idea...

Bill Ball

So, the power steering pulley is up to this amount of tension? I understand the alternator is, but I wasn't sure about the power steering.

Rick Carter

And I'd really like to take credit for it. But it was all Rob, he's the mechanic. He's somewhere in CA for a few days when he gets back I'll try and answer Brian's questions.

Rick Carter

Bill,
Does this answer your question?

We had to relocate the power steering reservoir, which now mounts to the 3.5" inlet piping. The kit was originally designed to run 2 separate belts for the power steering and alternator. To simplify things we modified the kit to run a single 6 rib belt. We made a hub-centric spacer to bring the power steering pulley out to line up with the alternator and then machined a spacer to hold and idler pulley between the alternator and power steering pump. The alternator tensioner controls the tension on this belt, to remove it you just loosen the tensioner on the alternator. We also had to machine the lower pulley to mount to the crank pulley correctly as well as machine a spacer to bring the blower pulley out 1/8" to line up with the lower pulley correctly. Tension should be checked every 3,000 miles or so on the blower belt, the tensioner for it is off the front blower bracket

johnf95111

Hey Rick,

That is an awesome looking job. Every time I see a clean SC install, I drool. One suggestion if I may, get some new hose clamps for the rad in/out. I'd hate to see one of those rusted clamps give up the ghost and take out an automotive work of art.

Cheers and have fun with the pumped ride,

John Fagerlund
'89GT

Rick Carter

I didn't notice how bad they look in the pictures, they really aren't that bad. I do plan on cleaning up the engine bay, maybe this winter. I even bought new decals but didn't want to put them in until the bay gets cleaned up. Thanks for the compliment, I can't take credit for Rob's work though, I'm just the happy beneficiary.

Tony

Although DR has already done it, heres an idea for Ver2.0.
it would look really sharp!!!
I dont think you car is compatible with a shark tuner though?

heinrich

pretty

John Speake

We're working on that :-)

Rick Carter

Looks good Tony, it's only time and money.