I am trying to find out if I have the correct boots for my 79 5 speed.

The large end of the CV joint flange is about 70 mm but the ID of the large end of the boot is only about 57mm. That would be one hell of a stretch. Small diameters are likewise much different. Shaft dia is about 29 mm but the boot ID is only 23 mm. The part number on the new boot is 901 332 293 12 which as far as I can tell is correct for my car. VIN 9289201067.

I've been thru Sharkskin's write up on this it it looks like I may have the right parts, but I want to make sure before I try to stretch these things beyond reason.

Thanks

Art

 

Don't have a metric ruler handy but those appear to be the same size that came with my kit, part # 928-332-922-01 for the 78. The GKN part # is 300509 and it includes the washer, gasket, boot and 2 tubes of grease. The two I've installed required a lot of stretching.

Dennis

 

Thanks Dennis. That's the same part number for the kit that I have 928 332 922 01. However, I got no gasket and only one tube of grease. On the other hand,I got a snap ring, and two clamps.

I have long experience putting sew-up tires on my bicycle (these are stretched on to the rim and glued in place, if you're not familiar) and this CV boot promises to be an equal challenge.

Art

 

Art,

As tight as those buggers are, who needs clamps? Actually mine came with the snap ring and clamps (need to clean my glasses). I did order a single boot from the Parts Bin for the 928 and it came with the metal plate that bolts to the joint. Too bad the plate was too small. Think it was for a 911 or 924.

Better stock up on KY jelly. BTW I recommend replacing both boots on the same axle. If one has gone, the other will soon follow.

Dennis

 

If your flange looks like the pic below then you have the right part. Your bicycle experience(and cuss words learned thereby) will all come in handy...

 

After seeing Dennis' last post, I would recommend AGAINST any sort of lube between the boot and flange. If you lube it, it will be even more of a pain. When trying to assemble it dry, the boot kept slipping off just when I thought I was done -- it did this repeatedly. With lube I think it would have even more tendency to pop off.

 

Dave,

Agree to no lube on the large side but he will need lube on the small opening to move it up the shaft.

Dennis

 

Dennis, while that may make it easier, I didn't need any. YMMV.

 

Thanks all. I did confirm that I have the right part. (Thank you 928 Specialists) I have also stumbled on a way to get the boot on in a few seconds, no yelling and screaming either.

Coat 1/2 of the inside of the lip of the boot with something slippery, like DL hand cleaner. Then clamp the flange in a vise. Start by slipping the side of the boot that is uncoated on to the flange and then (this is the key) reach underneath the flange so that your hand is on the inside of the boot. With your fingers push the coated side of the boot over the flange and you're done. Really, it's that simple.

Now I have another problem. The splined end of the half shaft (other side) will not come off the CV joint. Yes, I removed the split ring. I have a large gear puller but no joy. Soaked in liquid wrench and tried heat. Still won't budge. The other side came off easily.

Any suggestions?

Art

 

Art,

I used PB Blaster and a rubber mallet to get mine off. Stood the axle up with the splined end on a piece of wood then tapped the backside with the mallet to get it moving.

Dennis

 

I have seen the half shaft lifted vertically .... and slam dunked into a large block of wood: thick leather gloves are mandatory .

 

Whatever you do, don't hammer the end of the shaft, unless you want to tap it lightly to help the penetrant. Unless you're in a big hurry, just put the puller back on it, put it under tension, and spray it with penetrant again. Tap lightly on the center shaft of the puller and keep tightening until the puller no longer loosens after tapping. Then let it sit... go have a beer, read for an hour, etc. Then repeat the light tapping and tightening. Leaving it under tension is very effective, and I'd say worst case you could have it loose by the time you get home from work tomorrow, unless it's galled beyond repair.

P.S. Don't forget the anti-seize...

 

Just to wrap this up, I completed the cleaning, repacking and boot replacement on the CV joints today. The CVs looked surprisingly good after all the gunk was cleaned off, given that the boots were ripped for who knows how long.

I rushed to get everything done today so I could get the cars in their proper winter storage positions on the last day before snow. Went to start the 928...dead battery. I think I left the radio on. I have had this car since may and so far have driven it maybe 50 miles. Unbelievable.

 

The standard replacement boot is too small the original Porsche boot fits just fine costs a couple bucks more. The replacement part number used is the same but the boots are DIFFERENT. Here is a case where we only sell the Porsche boot because it fits !

 

Anyone make split seam boots for the 928?

I hate pulling out the axles when i can just cut off the old boots and install a split boot without taking ANYTHING apart.

They don't last as long, but it's a much, much, much easier job when they do go.