SteveG

Last winter's project was to r/r the air pump. A re-built one was installed. It felt rather "tight" when I turned to by hand before installation. The supplier said it would take 500 miles or so to fully break in, probably got 600 on it now. From examining the old one, I would describe the material on the fins that contacts the wall of the pump as graphite. I'm thinking of shooting some WD40 past the filter in through the intake to the pump. Anybody have suggestions? It's just an irritating noise at this point, but it is getting worse. If that doesn't work, the belt comes off after the next inspection. TIA.

SharkSkin

DO NOT put oil in there. You might be able to exchange it at this point, but if you put oil in there it will kill the blades. Also, did you inspect/test your diverter valve and check valve? A bad check valve will allow exhaust to flow back into the air pump, also likely to kill the pump.

SteveG

Check valve was checked. OK, no oil or WD40, what about a graphite spray?

SharkSkin

The graphite will have a petroleum or alcohol based carrier. Not a good idea either, IMHO. I'd say drive it back to where you got the pump, drag the counter guy out there, open the hood, start the motor, point and say, "WTF???"

Jim M.

What Dave A. (Sharkskin) said. I helped a friend put a rebuilt air pump on his 89. The pump was completly silent after the install. You got a defective unit or a bad re-build. Take it back!

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

SteveG

Well that is a problem when you are on one coast and the rebuilder is on the other. AND it is installed on the car. AND they have a disclaimer on the invoice that says if you don't replace the check valve the warranty is not valid. I questioned that supplier after I received the pump ("Do I have to show a receipt for a new valve") from the beginning and knowing that could be a problem I went ahead. Maneuvering the POS into place is one of those cursing jobs, if you don't have the front end open. That is why I'm looking for a solution involving spray lube and nothing else. Winter storage is upon us. I guess it will stay in place w/o lube til next spring's inspection at the smog shop and then I will deal with it. I will remove the belt and hand turn to get a take on the bearing or the blades. It sounds like it is produced by the blades against the wall of the pump; I'm assuming that they chose graphite (if that is in fact what it is) for the composition of the blade as it would act as a lube. In the not too distant future I will be relocating to an area that does not require smog inspection. The rebuilder is in the Bay Area if anyone cares to shop elsewhere. I can be more specific in pm.

SharkSkin

Still, I'd say try to work with them on it. You didn't get what you paid for.