First 928 oil pan sealed with gasket from "REALGASKET"
11-13-2005, 04:05 PM
#16
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Is there anything wrong with doing the 4x4 lift setup on the point you're using the metal lift? If not, what's the reason for using 2 different lift points with the wood?
11-13-2005, 04:33 PM
#17
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Matt,
I do not beleive so.
The pictures show the blocks positioned over the cam cover lifting points.
I would use the center front point.
Providing the wood is strong enough I see no problem. I will use an extra large thickness of wood to be safe.
Roger
I do not beleive so.
The pictures show the blocks positioned over the cam cover lifting points.
I would use the center front point.
Providing the wood is strong enough I see no problem. I will use an extra large thickness of wood to be safe.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
11-16-2005, 06:38 PM
#21
Developer
For those that are interested:
We have about 20 of the neoprene/cork blend oil pan gaskets in stock for the 928. I have been carrying them for about 2 years and our customers love them.
The neoprene never cracks or ages, and is re-useable. Here is the link and what they look like:
http://www.928m.com/parts/oilpangasket.php
I recommend a little loctite blue on the threads of your 10mm oil pan bolts, so they do not loosen or back out. Sometimes, what appears to be the bolts loosening, tho, is really the gasket shrinking - which makes the bolts loose.
This is why we went the other way - to a thinner gasket made from neoprene/cork blend that will hold a true torque and not loosen over time.
We have about 20 of the neoprene/cork blend oil pan gaskets in stock for the 928. I have been carrying them for about 2 years and our customers love them.
The neoprene never cracks or ages, and is re-useable. Here is the link and what they look like:
http://www.928m.com/parts/oilpangasket.php
I recommend a little loctite blue on the threads of your 10mm oil pan bolts, so they do not loosen or back out. Sometimes, what appears to be the bolts loosening, tho, is really the gasket shrinking - which makes the bolts loose.
This is why we went the other way - to a thinner gasket made from neoprene/cork blend that will hold a true torque and not loosen over time.
02-25-2006, 07:42 PM
#22
Advanced
I plan on doing this job next weekend. What is the lift point you are using on the front of the engine? Is the chain around the fan bracket? Does a drive on lift pose any additional problems?
Thanks
Rick
1984 925s 5sp
Thanks
Rick
1984 925s 5sp
04-20-2006, 01:55 AM
#23
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Well, I not trying to degradate someone's efforts; the fault is recognized, and someone has made an attempt at a better-than-factory repair.
A similar fault is recognized on 356/VW engines, at their valve cover gaskets. Someone fixed this fault, by having gaskets made, with the neoprene/cork blend, but they also had a thin stainless "sheet", or shim, sandwiched between two thin neoprene/cork blend gaskets, in a composition type gasket. Very reusable.
I've wondered for a while, if this would've been a similar success story for our oil pans, but apparently, a fix has been found. Good news!
A similar fault is recognized on 356/VW engines, at their valve cover gaskets. Someone fixed this fault, by having gaskets made, with the neoprene/cork blend, but they also had a thin stainless "sheet", or shim, sandwiched between two thin neoprene/cork blend gaskets, in a composition type gasket. Very reusable.
I've wondered for a while, if this would've been a similar success story for our oil pans, but apparently, a fix has been found. Good news!
04-20-2006, 09:16 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Brett Rickman
Well, I not trying to degradate someone's efforts; the fault is recognized, and someone has made an attempt at a better-than-factory repair.
A similar fault is recognized on 356/VW engines, at their valve cover gaskets. Someone fixed this fault, by having gaskets made, with the neoprene/cork blend, but they also had a thin stainless "sheet", or shim, sandwiched between two thin neoprene/cork blend gaskets, in a composition type gasket. Very reusable.
I've wondered for a while, if this would've been a similar success story for our oil pans, but apparently, a fix has been found. Good news!
A similar fault is recognized on 356/VW engines, at their valve cover gaskets. Someone fixed this fault, by having gaskets made, with the neoprene/cork blend, but they also had a thin stainless "sheet", or shim, sandwiched between two thin neoprene/cork blend gaskets, in a composition type gasket. Very reusable.
I've wondered for a while, if this would've been a similar success story for our oil pans, but apparently, a fix has been found. Good news!
04-20-2006, 07:38 PM
#26
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about the Real Gaskets and
Instead of lock washers would it not be a better idea to try to get some suitable shouldered bolts? The shoulder should be of a size to ensure the gasket is compressed to the correct thickness and the bolt can be tightened to a suitable normal type torque so it stays safely done up
Instead of being tightened to 3inch/Lb or whatever is recommended with the standard oil pan bolt which does not sound like a long term safe solution.
Marton
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I have a few of these gaskets in stock (bought all he had) and I am combining them with some lock washers to make a kit
Instead of being tightened to 3inch/Lb or whatever is recommended with the standard oil pan bolt which does not sound like a long term safe solution.
Marton
03-01-2011, 01:55 PM
#28
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I have the red silicone gasket. Should any gasket sealant be applied with this? Also, do you think I need to removed the altenator for ease of removing bolts in the front of the oil pan. I can get them of with although very tedious. Also, will I need to remove the oil pick up tube to get the new gasket in. Thanks.
03-01-2011, 02:04 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
I would remove the oil pickup tube to replace the rubber seal that seals it, if not, no you don't need to remove it. If you do take it off apply the proper torque using proper torque wrench, don't use hand torquing method, because its either going to strip doing it too tight or your going to do it too loose and its going to come apart and cause disaster inside the engine.
The small bolts take 7 ft.lb, and the Allen one takes 15 ft.lb, if you do the Allen one too tight it will squeeze your new rubber seal out.
The small bolts take 7 ft.lb, and the Allen one takes 15 ft.lb, if you do the Allen one too tight it will squeeze your new rubber seal out.
03-01-2011, 02:06 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
No sealant. Pan will need to be removed and sealing surface cleaned.
Job is done in parallel with motor mount job.
Oil pickup is not removed from block. Oil fill tube that enters near front edge of panel on early cars - yes.
Extensive clean and rinse of lower half of engine is generally required to prevent sand from ending-up in the pan. Omitting this step is perilous. I've never done this job without removal and complete wash/rinse/damn near sterilization of the pan.
10mm gearwrench ( and various other 10mm tools ) are very helpful.
Blue loctite is recommended, but the holes need to be clean -- flush them while pan is still up, held by only a couple remaining bolts. Many are through-holes, BTW, with backside stuffed with sand.
Torque wrench with inch-lbs is recommended.
I've installed 5 with hand-torque method. Works fine.
Job is done in parallel with motor mount job.
Oil pickup is not removed from block. Oil fill tube that enters near front edge of panel on early cars - yes.
Extensive clean and rinse of lower half of engine is generally required to prevent sand from ending-up in the pan. Omitting this step is perilous. I've never done this job without removal and complete wash/rinse/damn near sterilization of the pan.
10mm gearwrench ( and various other 10mm tools ) are very helpful.
Blue loctite is recommended, but the holes need to be clean -- flush them while pan is still up, held by only a couple remaining bolts. Many are through-holes, BTW, with backside stuffed with sand.
Torque wrench with inch-lbs is recommended.
I've installed 5 with hand-torque method. Works fine.
